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Old 03-10-2008, 05:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pictures of full-size bronco crawler?

Does anyone have any pictures of a full-size bronco rock crawler? I'm looking for some inspiration for my '94. so far my plans include coilovers, 4 link, 44" maybe bigger, dove tail, i'm thinking a 7.3 powerstroke and there's some other surprises i've got up my sleeve. Most broncos seem to just be sas'd with radias arms not to say there arn't some really nice ones like plug ugly's which is my favorite, but I've been searching for weeks now for a real low sitting full-size with maybe a 4-link setup, big tires and lots of cutting. can anyone help me out?? so far i've had to look to full-size blazers for inspiration, where are the broncos?
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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'81, 4" lift, leaf springs both ends, tons of mods. Check out the site in my sig and my Supermotors site for details.

Test pics after one-ton install:





After scrapping the full body:






After narrowing the nose:

Last edited by Lars915; 03-10-2008 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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nice rig. are those 44"?
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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42's on recentered H1 rims. I didn't want the width of 44's.
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks.

how much lift are you looking at? Ive got somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 to 7, modest trimming and 42's. I have had to relocate the core support mounts, and IF I went much bigger, would have firewall and and heater core issues.

now, you could do it (and I really thought about doing it this way) by essentially comp cutting the front, relocating the battery to the cab area, and moving all the other incidentals. Since you mentioned a 7.3 swap, most of your motor stuff would be out of the way, but how much more would you be adding as for wires, sensors, etc, etc? I have to say, I am VERY pleased with a dove tail and 42's. It would be nice to pinch the front, but the wife likes her heater and I dont feel you could do it AND make it look decent without losing the blower motor.
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i'd like to keep it as low as i can with minimal up travel. i was considering almost a comp cut and narrowed front. i didn't even think about the blower being in the way i just planned to relocated anything in my way. i'll have to go check that out tomorrow. but as for the firewall i was thinkin i'd just move the front axle forward as need, maybe 2-3". im also moving the rear back so i dont want to stretch the wheel base too much. i'm leaving the 5.0 i have in it for now and keeping my eye out for a powerstroke but i was considering a 5.9 cummins i just haven't been able to find any decent deals on them.
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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On my rig, even with 3" bumpstops, the 42's hit both the heater motor (without air conditioning) and the headlights. Getting 42's on with low lift and even minimal stuff takes a lot of surgery including relocating the radiator support body mounts and heavy trimming of the support itself. Too keep the tires from rubbing the frame and springs I lost a lot of turning radius. I used plow lights mounted to the front of the radiator support and protected by the winch bumper. I tried three different cuts on the front fenders and finally just tossed them because no matter what, the tires almost came up to the height of the hood and either trashed the fenders or cut the hell out of the tires. I used angle iron to locate the radiator support and attached a couple brackets to mount the starter solenoid, voltage regulator, ignition module, etc. Frame flex eventually tore the supports out and bent the hood up pretty good. I think a full 8-point cage is pretty much required if you want to twist things up regularly.

Forgot, I also had to flatten all of the firewall seams below the blower motor and the brake booster. The tires still rubbed, but it just polished the steel. I also had to relocate the emergency brake cable through the floor instead of the firewall for more clearance.

Last edited by Lars915; 03-10-2008 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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also, at least with my 94 351, the main wiring harness and fuse panels sit on top of the drivers inner fender. you will need to do some major wire splicing if you are gonna move that, there isnt much "stretch" available.

here is my redone core support




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Old 03-11-2008, 06:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i got bored today and tried to draw my idea. the back tire is too big and i gave up drawing the interior i couldnt get it to look right. and under the door is supposed to be the boat sides i it kind of looks like the frame.
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Old 03-11-2008, 08:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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several issues with your picture, so I am guessing at this point you really havent looked at your rig.

1. you will have a very hard time outboarding rear coils unless you run a WIDE axle
2. your tires with that kind of cutting will hit the fuel filler neck
3. cutting the front like that, as Larston stated, will put the front tires into the headlights.

otherwise a cool pic.
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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well i was thinkin i'd scrap the back of the frame if i ran into problems with the coilovers hitting it. and i'd get rid of the ground dragger tank its pissed me off the whole time i've owned it, and as for the lights i already figured that out i just drew the stock front end to keep it simple to draw. and i just realized i drew the coilovers upside down.
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Old 03-11-2008, 11:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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stop drawing
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Old 03-11-2008, 11:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strokt View Post
stop drawing
Still, a lot better than you or I could draw...



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Old 03-12-2008, 06:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The engine crossmemeber would need a bunch of modification as well!

I tried 4" springs on mine in an effort to drop it some. I cut the crossmember and clearanced it for the track bar. Bottom line is, with only 4" springs it would bottom very easily with soft crawlin' springs. I hated it even with good bumpstops. Sure it might crawl better with a lower center of gravity, but, to me, No fun in a trail rig if you can't whomp on it some! Little up travel sucked!

I've thought about moving the coil buckets up, completely redoing the crossmember and trying to find an oil pan to fit, but I beleive it to be too much work for the gain of a couple of inches.

You would be better of with a tube chassis and swap your running gear and sheet metal to it. That would also drop a bunch of weight!

I'd be in Littleton, am just completing a rebuild, installed hydro assist last weekend in this aptly named Carcass:


Last edited by Blown349; 03-12-2008 at 07:15 AM.
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