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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 75732
Posts: 10
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1997 f150 straight axle swap?
I am about to do a straight axle swap into my 97 f150 2wd. I am useing the dana 44 and 9 inch out of a 79 bronco. The problem that I have is the stearing. The pit men arm on the f150 is different from the bronco. The f150 has a tie rod style end on it and the center link from the bronco also has a tie rod style end. I know that fabritech sells a swap kit and I was hopeing that someone could tell me what they use for a pit men arm? I can't get anyone at fabritech to tell me. I looked at the pictures they have online but they don't show the arm. I did notice that they didn't use the bronco centerlink. any help would be great. Thanks
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#2 (permalink) |
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Coke dealer...
Join Date: Feb 2006
Member # 66780
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 1,804
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FYI: "Pitman arm"
Also, It will be much cheaper to buy a 4WD truck and convert it. You will need the transmission and T-case from a '97-'98 truck, and I'm not sure how it will work with your 2WD's computer and wiring harness. You're on your own there, as I have never heard of anyone converting a '97+ 2WD to 4WD. And few have done a SAS on the 4WD trucks... The stock 8.8 (or 9.75 if you have the 5.4L), are stronger than the stock 9", so I'd leave it in there.
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#3 (permalink) |
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MASTER TECH
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 54844
Location: Northern cali
Posts: 3,435
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a stock 8.8 is in no way stronger than a 9"
the 9.75 - perhaps the tranny can be converted by any tranny shop - id use a superduty manual shift t case - no extra wires - and the speed sensor in the t case might hook work too
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BSW Racing, Calrocs Super mods 12 & ? Driver: Aaron Whitehead - Driver: Joe Hutchins Spotter: Adam Kovarik - Spotter: Dustin Knight Crew Cheif: me fuckers ![]() build up of the truggy /forum/ford/544813-update-pics.html |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Member # 92867
Location: Cocoa, FL
Posts: 201
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nope.....d44, 8.8, 9" are all 5x5.5..........
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96' F-150....460/c6/205/200 on rockwells 78' Bronco- 408m, C6, NP205, chromos, 40" boggers.... Last edited by BOGGER1966; 03-19-2008 at 06:05 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 45530
Posts: 1,317
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you dumb ass, it's a 97 f-150, it has a 5x135mm bolt patter, different from his 5X5.5 that he is swapping in, you will need to swap rear axles as well, and since it's coming with a matching 9" I'd swap that in.
It would be cheaper to just buy a 4x4 if thats all your looking for, but if you want a solid axle anyways, truth be told I'd rather start with a 2wd. I bought my last tranny from greenleaf for $500, a manual 1356 tcase can be had for 200 or so, and since your ripping the whole front end apart to put the solid axle in it doesn't really matter. When doing a swap like this it's actually easier to start with a 2wd platform since the front already has the coil buckets in place, and they are the same style needed to run 78-79 coils. As for the PITMAN arm, I forget which ones worked, but it was one of the earlier ones. Buy a 78-79 f-150 drop pitman arm and a 80-96 drop pitman arm, and return the one that doesn't work |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99302
Location: Santa Cruz
Posts: 1,014
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You may want to swap an older 8.8 into it because it will give you the 5x5.5 lug AND the speed sensor to ensure that your tranny will shift. If you run the 9 inch you will need to mod the housing to fit the sensor and mount the a speed ring to the ring gear. Your pitman arm situation should be fixed be running the 80-96 arm.....I would grab one from a wrecking yard first, they are cheap and it may be the correct angle. When I SAS swapped my old 94 I swapped out my dropped arm for a stock arm because the steering angles. As far as the steering links you will have to get creative and make the links (cut, sleeve, and plug weld) or take some measurements and have someone else do it.
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My Truggy build thread: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=643409 85' Toy based 4 Seat Buggy 22re, W-56, dual cases with 4.7's in rear, 5.29's, Detroit/Welded, poofields, marlin hy-steer, hydro assist, linked with 18" Air Shox, RUF, front range x-member, 38" TSL's, and some tube |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99302
Location: Santa Cruz
Posts: 1,014
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Just saw your note on your plans to swapping to a 302/435/205 so you can ignore my axle thoughts. What motor do you have now 4.2/4.6/5.4?....unless you have the 4.2 V-6 I would run your existing motor and tranny.
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My Truggy build thread: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=643409 85' Toy based 4 Seat Buggy 22re, W-56, dual cases with 4.7's in rear, 5.29's, Detroit/Welded, poofields, marlin hy-steer, hydro assist, linked with 18" Air Shox, RUF, front range x-member, 38" TSL's, and some tube |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Member # 92867
Location: Cocoa, FL
Posts: 201
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Quote:
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96' F-150....460/c6/205/200 on rockwells 78' Bronco- 408m, C6, NP205, chromos, 40" boggers.... |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 45530
Posts: 1,317
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the 4.2 transmission will bolt up to a small block v8 housing, but trying to keep the harness would be a pain. A c4 for a 302 would probably be a more simple option depending on how he's wanting to set his 302 up (EFI, carb, ect...)
if he has a v8 now he'll need a c4/c6 regardless. Look up Kirk Dabney's solid axle f-150 build. He did something almost identical to what you are describing, '97 f150 2wd with a solid axle and a 460/c6. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Coke dealer...
Join Date: Feb 2006
Member # 66780
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 1,804
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Quote:
I couldn't find torque ratings for the 9" The 9.75 is stronger than a Dana 60....but the D60 will carry more weight due to it's thicker tubes.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 75732
Posts: 10
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Thanks for all the info. I will try the pitman arm from the 79. I still have that. As for the motor I have the 4.2 v6 right now but I have the 302 out of a 69 mustang that I had rebuilt a few years ago and the 435/205 I got from a 79 f250 when I had my ranger with the 44 and 9 in it. I was going to swap out the c6 for the 435 but never got to it and sold the truck. I will be useing the clutch ass. from a late 80's model so I don't have to mess with the manual linkage.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 45530
Posts: 1,317
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I'd run the C4 if you've only got a 302, the C6 is a bit of a power hog.
The 8.8 also has c-clips, not really bad if you know your not going to break (jeep on 35's) but not be best on a full size pickup with a v8 and large tires, the 9" is the safe bet, and if he already has it, should run it. You'll have to ditch the ABS for the front end any ways. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Debauchery Wizard
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 80219
Location: On de FOB
Posts: 3,666
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if you run the c4 make sure to change the planetary gear(stock is 3 gears) to an aftermarket(6 gear) one. that seems to be the only weak link. my buddy ran one behind a 460 in a high 10 car and it held up. Just MHO.
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Why can't they have gay people in the army? Personally, I think they are just afraid of a thousand guys with M16s going, "Who'd you call a faggot?" Rock Goonies |
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#15 (permalink) |
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MASTER TECH
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 54844
Location: Northern cali
Posts: 3,435
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the 8.8 axle is fine for small light vehicles -
but a fullsize ? the 9" has multiple advantages - the ring gear is larger ( 9" vs 8.8" ) and has three pinion supports - the case is stronger due to it design - the 9" is closed and supported in 360 deg. the 8.8 has ( for the LS and the open case ) large openings to install the spider gears and/or the clutch packs - thus a weaker case - the 8.8 is also a C clip axle - so if it breaks - out comes the tire - a 9" will ( most of the time ) still support weight - for a jeep or ranger - an 8.8 is a great axle - if you install a full case locker and some aftermarket safts - its on - but then it is at its max - but for the same cash you can put a spool and 1.5" 35 spline shafts in a 9" and beat away - i still say superduty axles - speed sensors will work and have big brakes and axles -
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BSW Racing, Calrocs Super mods 12 & ? Driver: Aaron Whitehead - Driver: Joe Hutchins Spotter: Adam Kovarik - Spotter: Dustin Knight Crew Cheif: me fuckers ![]() build up of the truggy http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=544813 |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 45530
Posts: 1,317
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X2
a set of sduty axles work great, are cheap, but are a little harder to hang because the location of the chunk. Leafs are possible but the back mounts are hard with the way the frame is shaped. Then again some coilovers on the front would fix all your fit problems and be much easier to mount. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 75732
Posts: 10
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I think I got it figured out. I should be able to use the pitman arm from the 80's style ranger and the drag link and tie rod end from either the 1980 bronco or the 80's ranger. I have both so I will find out when the time comes to put it in. Thanks for all the info. I will let you know how it goes.
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#21 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Member # 17347
Location: Bowling Green KY
Posts: 301
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personaly I would go 9"
if you are worried about the wiring why not just go duraspark untill you find the right setup that dosen't need all the sensors?
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71.5 Bronco Wagon 1976 F100 giant pile of parts, that is finaly a roller... |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Member # 44108
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,407
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I used a '94 F-350 pitman arm....but i have a 4x4 PS box, and am not sure if the 2wd box has a different sector shaft or not.
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#24 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Member # 17347
Location: Bowling Green KY
Posts: 301
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Quote:
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71.5 Bronco Wagon 1976 F100 giant pile of parts, that is finaly a roller... |
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