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Old 06-03-2009, 07:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Slow D60 Swap

really starting at the beginning, and I won't be moving fast... Looks like I will be on the road for at least 3 of the next 6 weeks, but I gotta start documenting sometime.

Truck - 71 F250 4x4, 360, NP435, D24, 4.11
Donor - 79 F350 4x4, 400M, Auto NP205 4.11

So, the start is to clean up the axles and a divorced NP205... so here they go off to the sandblaster...



I have a Kingpin rebuild kit, so once I get them back I will start disassembly, painting and reassembly.

I already have new springs, shackles, bushings, shocks and shock mounts on order from Cage Offroad, so parts are on the way.

I also have a deadline of mid-August but with unknown road trips ahead this could be closer than it sounds...

I keep telling people I am not real bright, so feel free to ask anything, but don't expect an intelligent answer.

Later!

Eric
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695]This country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE]

Last edited by 71PA_Highboy; 06-03-2009 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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D60 Bearing question

OK,

The front is stripped of everything, and I am cleaning up and evaluating all the pieces.

I did find the carrier bearing races looked a bit chewed up, while the bearings looked just fine.

Given that people use setup bearings to determine preload, then put in the real bearings, is it possible to just replace the bearings/races on the carrier and pinion (utilizing the existing shim set)? I would not be changing the gears (They look and feel fine).

As I said above, sometimes I am not real bright, but this seems like an acceptable method.

If you know why I shouldn't do this, please let me know.

Thanks!

Eric
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695]This country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE]
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Old 08-27-2009, 12:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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So,
Now that I have torn everything apart, I decided to create a list and take it to my local parts stores and some dealing... I would buy everything on the list, cash and carry.

Since I went to the trouble of garnering several sets of part numbers I thought I would share. If you save the below text as a .csv file it will be easily ready by Excel or other spreadsheet.

"1979 Ford Dana 60 Front HP Kingpin, Rear Low Pinion",,
Part,Parts Plus P/N,Napa P/N
FEL-PRO Part # 55328 {Axle Shaft Flange Gasket},FEL 55328,FPG 55328
National Bearing A-38 Bearing/Race set (Front /Rear outer),BCA A38,BRG BR38
Timken 382S Race (Inner Wheel & D60 Carrier Race),BCA 382S,BRG 382 S
Timken 387A Bearing (Front Inner Wheel & D60 Carrier bearings),BCA 387A,BRG 387A
National Bearing A-387AS Bearing (Rear Inner),BCA 387AS,BRG 387AS
Spicer 48816 Front Spindle Inner Grease seal,NAT 4250,NOS 3683
National Seal 9864S Rear Inner Grease seal,NAT 9864S,NOS 28720
Pinion Bearings - Spicer70604x (Cone),BCA HM88542,HM88542
(Race),BCA HM88510,HM88510
Pinion Bearing - Spicer 706045x (Cone),BCA HM803146,HM803146
(Race),BCA HM803110,HM803110
Axle housing Gasket Felpro RDS 6095-1,RDS 6095-1,RDS 6095-1
Pinion Seal - Spicer 42449 ,NAT 9316,NOS 18896
Axle/Differential rebuilt kit,,BRG DK 331
,,
Brake Parts (Misc),,
RAYBESTOS Part # BH36841 Front; Left; Four Wheel Drive (4X4) (hose),MIS H36841,UP 36841
RAYBESTOS Part # BH36840 Front; Right; Four Wheel Drive (4X4) (hose),MIS H36840,UP 36840
RAYBESTOS Part # BH36851 Rear; Center; Four Wheel Drive (4X4) (hose),MIS H36851,UP 36857
,,
,,
Rear Brakes 12x2.5,,
"RAYBESTOS Part # H2589 Rear; Right; 12"" Brakes - Adjuster Kit",CRL H2598,UP 80849
"RAYBESTOS Part # H2588 Rear; Left; 12"" Brakes - Adjuster Kit",CRL H2599,UP 80848
AUTOSPECIALTY / KELSEY-HAYES Part # HK4052 Hardware Kit,CRL H7181,UP 2241
RAYBESTOS Part # 1643R - Drum,RTR 60151,NB 440-1132
RAYBESTOS Part # 316PG Brake Shoes,ABP FB357,SS316
RAYBESTOS Part # WC37133 (R) Wheel Cylinder,PWC F57147,UP 37133
RAYBESTOS Part # WC37132 (L) Wheel Cylinder,PWC F57146,UP 37132
,,
Front Brakes,,
RAYBESTOS Part # PGD120M Pads,ABP MKD120S,SS 7054M
RAYBESTOS Part # 6084R Rotor,RTR 60530,NB 4885731
CARDONE SELECT Part # 131676 New (Master Cylinder),AA1 10-1676,UP 39368
A-1 CARDONE # 184223 R [Caliper w/o Bracket] Reman,PBC 18-4224,SDC 242-4039L
A-1 CARDONE # 184224 L [Caliper w/o Bracket] Reman,PBC 18-4223,SDC 242-4039R
,,
Misc Additional parts,,
Speedy Sleeve Yoke #99187,NAT 99147,NOS 99187
Speedy Sleeve Rear axle # 99250,NAT 99250,NOS 99250
Spicer 36487 Inner axle seal,NAT 470682,NOS 15692

Anyway, it cost more than I thought, $1190 for everything for both axles, but hopefully I won't have to do this ever again.

If you have any questions, ask away.

Eric
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695]This country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE]
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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slowly moving D60 swap

So,

Today I got my 'Front Master D60 Install Kit' from 4wd Factory. $97 Delivered. Comes with the inner seals too.

I have made a couple of orders from them and I am pleased with their prices and delivery... contacting them on the phone is another thing . I guess if I was smart enough to order online it might be a different story.

I ordered the kit with the Koyo Bearings, and then proceeded to grind the inside of them to make a set of Set-up bearings.

I was surprised to see the outside pinion bearing in this kit was a Timkin, so I left it alone and I will use the best bearing for the final assembly.

Tomorrow I pick up all the parts list in the post above this one. Sucks to pay $1200 to rebuild 2 axles, but I will have everything and I know they should last another 30 years when I am done.

Borrowed my dad's dial indicator with mag base (last axle he did was about '99) and now I just need to find a dial in-lb. torque wrench. He also sent me his Richmond gear video on setting up R&P... BillaVista's tech article was better.

Since I am using the original R&P in the front I am going to start with the original shim thickness and see how the pattern goes... hopefully it won't need much as I am the impatient type when it comes to 'trial and error' installations.

Any vendor suggestions for a Dial-type Torque Wrench? And yes, price is an object.

Thanks!
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695]This country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE]
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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seems like u are getting off to a good start
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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why replace the kingpins? were they bad? that will be a great day of fun...lol looking foward to more pics.
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trail*ridin View Post
why replace the kingpins? were they bad? that will be a great day of fun...lol looking foward to more pics.
Kingpings are easy to remove with the right tools.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Back at it

So I picked up the parts... some of them are going back as they are 'unacceptable'. The inner axle seals are not correct as they don't have the appropriate lip, and the master cylinder didn't come with the pushrod...

So today I was trying to get other things done while I wait for my in-lb torque wrench to arrive. I started to mount the new rotor on the hubs, and though I carefully separated the front and rear lug studs, I apparently got the entire sets mixed up... the fronts are smaller in diameter at the shank than the rears by about .003 ... after trying to beat them into place I tried one of the 'other' set and it went in fine... One disaster semi-averted.

The next was to install the new u-joints in the front axles. I bought new Spicers and went to install them. The first u-joint I ended up dropping a roller and breaking it... so it looks like I will be buying another new u-joint. That was an expensive mistake... it even felt wrong going together, but I thought it was just me as I hadn't done a u-joint in years (luckily). The other one went in fine.

I also grabbed some scrap and built a holder for the yolk for torquing the yoke nut.

Spent the rest of the day building some racks for stacking firewood...
And I used it as a chance to let my GF practice her welding... She says she officially understands 'booger welds' now ...

Some scrap 4"x1/8" and a bit of welding and it works great.

Anyway, we are moving on this... Oh yea... all my stuff from Cage came in, so the springs, shocks, shackles, u-bolts and stuff like that are also on the floor.

Last but not least, as for changing the Kingpins, I agree, they don't usually go bad, but the seals and bearings on the bottom looked like crap and with the entire rebuild kit ~$100 I figured I would do it all.
I pulled the kingpings with a 3/4" breaker bar and a 5' cheater pipe and a bit of heat from a propane torch. The hardest part is measuring 550 ftlbs for the re-install.
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[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695]This country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE]
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Old 10-02-2009, 07:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well,

Hopefully tomorrow I can finally get this pig built.

Here is where I will start, and I think I should be good. Setup bearings are all done, housing is clean, painted and sitting on saw horses so I will have easy access.

In-lb torque wrench arrived... looks kinda cheesey, but since it was PBB approved I am confident it will work.
/forum/shop-tools/819076-dial-style-lb-torque-wrench.html

Anyway, should be a busy day... Have to stop about 3:30 cuz that is when the GF shows up... She wants me to put food and drink in her in a romantic manner... and if I do that well I can put something else in her...

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3 Early Broncos, 2 Classic Mustangs, 68 F100, 71F250 4x4, 2 Lincoln Mark VIII - BF Penn

[QUOTE=nahmus;10554695]This country is trying to childproof the world when they should be worldproofing their children.[/QUOTE]

Last edited by 71PA_Highboy; 10-03-2009 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 10-03-2009, 09:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Lookin good.
Did you ever say which torque wrench you went with?
Also, where are you located? I'm just wondering cuz I saw a set of those mudflaps on an old blue ford a couple days ago.
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