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Old 06-27-2009, 04:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Inner axle seal install - Dana 60

I'm going to finish rebuilding my front D60 and need to replace the inner axle tube seals.

How do you get them out? And, how do you re-install new ones?

JBG offers a tool for $59.95, but I'd rather not spend it for a one time use.





Can you guys recommend a good way of installing these? Something a little more cost effective.

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Old 06-27-2009, 04:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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piece of pipe all the way through the axle tube that slips over your cheapo race and seal driver
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Old 06-27-2009, 05:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks.

What about getting the old one's out? Any tricks?
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Old 06-27-2009, 06:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have no recollection of removal, which prolley means I just pried them out after the carrier was removed
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used a pipe and a hammer to remove them, and a hammer and a screw driver to install them.
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Old 06-27-2009, 08:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I didn't plan on removing the carrier if it wasn't necessary. Everything looks good as far as that goes.

I do need to replace the axle seals, they were leaking when I picked it up.

If I have to remove the carrier I will.

I take it they get installed from the inside out?
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PsychoworkS View Post
I didn't plan on removing the carrier if it wasn't necessary. Everything looks good as far as that goes.

I do need to replace the axle seals, they were leaking when I picked it up.

If I have to remove the carrier I will.

I take it they get installed from the inside out?
yep.. gonna have to pull the carrier.. no wories tho. no special setup required if your not changing the gears or carrier.

I usually pry them out (from the inside) and use a socket on a long extension to install. I made a tool for D44s years ago, but haven't been doing enough 60s to justify building one for them.
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Old 06-28-2009, 12:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I put a long piece of 1.5" steel tubing through the axle tube from the outside, then pounded the end with a hammer, until the seal popped out.

The new seals I just used a big socket and tapped them in from the inside with the carrier out. First I cleaned up the surface up really well and used some fine sand paper to smooth out the inner tube area where the seal goes.
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Old 06-28-2009, 12:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PsychoworkS View Post
I didn't plan on removing the carrier if it wasn't necessary. Everything looks good as far as that goes.

I do need to replace the axle seals, they were leaking when I picked it up.

If I have to remove the carrier I will.

I take it they get installed from the inside out?
Yes, Yes and yes.
You must remove the carrier.

There's a few tricks to get the carrier to pop out easily.
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
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x2 on the big socket
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Yes, Yes and yes.
You must remove the carrier.

There's a few tricks to get the carrier to pop out easily.

Do tell as I have to do this to my D50 in the F250 here soon.
Trying to learn as much as possible from the interweb before starting...
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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i've heard of people using a rag to pop the carrier out , stick a rag in the gears and turn the yoke (with the caps removed of course) and it will comeout. or use a big pry bar , or a case spreader.
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I use a thick terry cotton towel. Stuff it in there, and rotate the pinion.

That bugga will pop outta deah.


Oh, I just used a piece of small pipe about 4 feet long to knock the old axle seals out.

Used a big socket and hammer to tap the new seals gently into place.
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I've always used the aforementioned long pipe methid, but it really looks like it would be pretty easy to build a home made version of that JBG seal installer.
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Old 07-11-2009, 11:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Just pry out old ones. Used long piece of 1/2 inch all thread and washers that were same diameter as the new seals on one end and washers larger than axle tube on the other end. Worked fine.

Had a hell of a time pulling carrier. Cross member under 7.3 would not allow case spreader to mount up. Could not get the towel/rag trick to work. Ended up pulling the axle out from under the truck to be able to use the case spreader.
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Old 07-12-2009, 12:43 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Cheap leather work gloves work better then rags as they are a little tougher and wont get chewn up as easily.
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Okay I am mid way here installing these inner seals. I have one side partially pressed in however I don't know when in is "in". Does it just "pop" in or do you just stop pressing after the rubber starts sort of squeazing through around the metal?

Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Some pictures of the one that I have in. I screwed up the first one pretty good. How else do you learn though.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopo...3/100_3025.JPG

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopo...3/100_3027.JPG

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopo...3/100_3028.JPG

The last one you can see my finger there. The rubber is sticking through just like a tiny little lip around that side. You can sort of see it on the other pics but not well. Is this okay? I guess I now know how to do this if I have to do it all again, I just don't want to.
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:14 PM   #19 (permalink)
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old thread coming back......

So how hard is it to put the carrier back in place? My axle came already geared correctly, but the driver side axle seal is leaking, so I need to replace them both. The bearings and races seem fine so I wasn't planning on replacing them unless something else comes up when I pull the carrier

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Old 10-03-2010, 08:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barillms View Post
I put a long piece of 1.5" steel tubing through the axle tube from the outside, then pounded the end with a hammer, until the seal popped out.

The new seals I just used a big socket and tapped them in from the inside with the carrier out. First I cleaned up the surface up really well and used some fine sand paper to smooth out the inner tube area where the seal goes.


That's almost exactly how I've done mine in the past. I used a long piece of DOM scrap that also serves as a good cheater bar.


Quote:
Originally Posted by james@bluetorchfab View Post
i've heard of people using a rag to pop the carrier out , stick a rag in the gears and turn the yoke (with the caps removed of course) and it will comeout. or use a big pry bar , or a case spreader.

One red shop rag rolled up in the gears will get it popped right out. Throw the T-case in neutral or remove the front shaft. I used a long screwdriver inserted in through the ears on the yoke straps to provide some leverage, then just turned until it fell out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vt89gtvert View Post
old thread coming back......

So how hard is it to put the carrier back in place? My axle came already geared correctly, but the driver side axle seal is leaking, so I need to replace them both. The bearings and races seem fine so I wasn't planning on replacing them unless something else comes up when I pull the carrier


Mark the bearing caps. They will need to be reinstalled in the exact position and orientation that they came out. I went as far as to reinstall the bolts in the same locations as well. They also need to be torqued to spec, and not just "tight enough".


Once the caps are off, use a towel like mentioned above and slowly force the carrier out. Be prepared to catch it and not let the shims fall out. Once the carrier is out, be careful with the shims as to not damage them. They will need to be reinstalled the exact way they came out.


It's a pretty simple process, really.
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Old 10-05-2010, 07:51 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Mark the bearing caps. They will need to be reinstalled in the exact position and orientation that they came out. I went as far as to reinstall the bolts in the same locations as well. They also need to be torqued to spec, and not just "tight enough".


No need to mark the bearing caps. The caps have a letter stamped on them from the factory. the letters will be the same on both caps but will be in a different direction. For example if it was "V"it would be this way on one cap and be sideways on the other cap ">". It will be stamped on the flat surface right beside the cap where the cover gasket surface is and the letter will be stamped on that surface the exact same as the cap is stamped. Learned this from working at dana.befor then I never knew and always marked my caps. Only dana axles do this as far as I know. I know dana 60, 70, and 80 bearing caps are stamped.

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Old 04-05-2013, 09:49 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I used a 1 1/4" socket with about 36" of 1/2" drive extensions and pounded out the axle houseing seals with no problem. Have not reinstalled them yet but I will.
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:08 AM   #23 (permalink)
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i've heard of people using a rag to pop the carrier out , stick a rag in the gears and turn the yoke (with the caps removed of course) and it will comeout. or use a big pry bar , or a case spreader.
Watched a two guys at the local Dodge dealer screw around with this for a half an hour. The rag and the smallest pry bars in the shop. I just stood in the glass window watching in awe after picking up my parts.

It can work, but not for those monkeys.


My long SnapOn pry bar sent down the tube like a slide hammer, gets the seals out every time. If you pry from the inside, make sure to remove the burr that it creates at the fulcrum point.

Four feet of good extension and a socket works really well, if you are careful not to over drive the seal. Be very careful when using this method on the newer Superduty / Dodge two-piece seals.

I bought the fancy turn-buckle style installers, that work great to ensure the seals are square and at the perfect depth, but they take a more effort than I like.
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