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Old 06-30-2009, 05:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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7.3 Diesel-Excessive smoking

Went and looked at a 93 F-350 Crew Cab Dually today. Has a 7.3 with a Banks Sidewinder turbo setup on it- supposedly only has 80K on rebuilt engine and turbo setup. The owner warned me that it would smoke, but DAMN it smoked horribly when revved up. Started OK with a jumpstart and shot of ether, ran a bit rough untill it warmed up a bit, then seemed to smooth out. The owner, like me, doesnt seem to know a lot about diesels, and was thinking the smoking was because of stale fuel due to the truck sitting for about a year with less about 1/8 tank- I think there is more to it than that though. It smokes a little at idle, and a lot when revved up. When it is warmed up, it subsides a bit, but is still pretty bad. Smoke is pretty much white, with a slight tinge of blue. I put my face right into the smoke as it was coming out the tailpipe and it had no recognizable smell to me- not oil or diesel- no smell at all really (but my sense of smell is'nt real great anyway) I read this thread
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ghlight=toilet

It gave me a few ideas- leaking injectors, bad turbo seal, or excessive oil buildup in the manifold from crankcase venting (can anyone be more specific on where to look for this oil build up??)

Seeing as the smoking of this rig is apparently worse than the one in the linked thread, can anyone give me some good advice on where to look first??

Guy wants $1000 for the truck, it is a rust free truck from Texas, already has a gooseneck ball in it. Unfortunately I could not test drive it because the auto tranny is bad- not so bad, as I want to put a ZF in it anyway. Truck has been parked for almost a year.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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sounds like it needs some glow plugs first. white smoke is usually unburned fuel. Since the truck needed ether to start it sounds like the glow plug system isn't working right.
Before that.
Ask him if he's treated the cooling system. If he doesn't know what cavitation is.... RUN lol.

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Old 06-30-2009, 09:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow that was a great idea hittin a glow plug rig with ether, do that a few time and say goodbye to a rod. As for the smoke on startup they all do get used to it. Damn its been a while FA
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I had a problem like that on my 99...turned out the oil seal on the turbine side of the turbo went out. Check all the joints in the exhaut starting at the turbo. If you see oil seeping through the joints, that's your problem
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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if ether was used on a regular basis you might have some nice blowby
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Blow by is typical for the 6.9/7.3 at idle, and "should" decrease as the motor revs up.
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Blow by is typical for the 6.9/7.3 at idle, and "should" decrease as the motor revs up.
You really mean smoke right. Blow by will never get better with rpm even on a new engine.

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Old 07-02-2009, 09:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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White smoke = unburned fuel due to dead hole (burnt valve rings?) smoke subsides when warm because it has enough heat in the motor to burn the fuel in the weak hole? Also explains why it runs smoother when warm.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Blowby will decrease with rpm on a 6.9 due to the intake sucking it in through the cdr valve... LOL
White smoke is unburned fuel, could be from dead glow plugs(if it cleans up once it starts to warm up) worn/leaky injectors, or a bad injection bump. Odds are if it needs a sniff for cold starts, it's dead glows.
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Old 07-03-2009, 12:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Or a leak in the fuel system
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I think ya'll have all missed the forest for the trees on this one.

It's a rust free crew cab, with a running (although symptomatic) 7.3L with an add on Banks Sidewinder for $1000... You can part the bitch out for more than the sales price, esp if you jew the guy down to about $750. If its a 4x4 F350, its going to have a ball joint 60 front under it, which will sell for the sales price on its own.

Douche the sand out of your vag, buy the fawking thing with the understanding that if it turns out the motor is shit, you just part it out and make some money of the fawking thing.
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Its like you read my mind. I am in the midwest, so the rust free information is pretty pertinent- It is not a 4x4, but I dont want a 4x4 for a tow rig anyway- I have a 78 F-250 4x4 that I can fall back on if I ever feel the need to tow while also needing four wheel drive. I pretty much already decided to buy the thing when I went and looked at it due to the rust free body and the Banks turbo setup (even if it needs the turbo freshened up) I was just looking for info on what to start looking/working on once I get it home.
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You always have the drastic option if it turns out the motor is too shot. Find ya a 12V cummins with an NV4500, drop that bitch in there, and you'll have a hell of a diesel truck.
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Old 07-04-2009, 05:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I think ya'll have all missed the forest for the trees on this one.

It's a rust free crew cab, with a running (although symptomatic) 7.3L with an add on Banks Sidewinder for $1000... You can part the bitch out for more than the sales price, esp if you jew the guy down to about $750. If its a 4x4 F350, its going to have a ball joint 60 front under it, which will sell for the sales price on its own.

Douche the sand out of your vag, buy the fawking thing with the understanding that if it turns out the motor is shit, you just part it out and make some money of the fawking thing.
X2 I would pick that truck up in heartbeat.
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I own a 92 7.3, the injector pump on this motor has about 70000 mile life expectancy, they will still run but smoke...you can get longer life out of this pump if you use a fuel additive to lubricate internal seals. Best additive is Stenodyne (they make the pump) I use it every 3 to 4 fill ups and I have 357000 miles and still running on second pump changed @ 140000 miles. Hope this helps!!!

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Old 07-06-2009, 08:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Where do you get this Stenodyne??? parts store?? and what should it cost.

Picked up the truck today- he would only come down another hundred on the price, but I would have paid the full thousand anyway. Gonna have a friend that knows more about IDI's come over when he gets some time to get me going on this thing
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Old 07-07-2009, 11:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Ford dealership, you will have to rebuild or replace the pump as the Stenodyne will only lessen wear not refurbish the seals. hope it works for you. I haven't bought it for a while cause last time I did, I got three cases and am still workin on them. Two years ago $14.00 per bottle that would treat 60 gal (every 3 to 4 fill ups).

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Old 07-07-2009, 10:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Old 07-08-2009, 10:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:43 PM   #20 (permalink)
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For what it's worth, it's Stanadyne.
Oilburners is definatley the place for IDI tech.
Yep, been checking out Oilburners for a few days now- good stuff.

I tinkered with the truck a bit today. pulled the ductwork from the intake side of the turbo. The K&N conical filter was so plugged up that the suction from the turbo had actually started to collapse it Found a noticable sized puddle of oil in the gizmo that lets the crankcase fumes feed into the turbo inlet- looks kinda like a big EGR valve(whats the proper termionology for this thing??). Was some signs of oil in the turbo intake too. Also reached into the turbo and could detect some play in the shaft- I would assume that considering the speed at which a turbo spins at, there should be no play in this shaft, correct??
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Old 07-10-2009, 02:58 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I own a 92 7.3, the injector pump on this motor has about 70000 mile life expectancy, they will still run but smoke...you can get longer life out of this pump if you use a fuel additive to lubricate internal seals. Best additive is Stenodyne (they make the pump) I use it every 3 to 4 fill ups and I have 357000 miles and still running on second pump changed @ 140000 miles. Hope this helps!!!
The injector pump is actually a stanadyne db2 pump and the life expectancy is minimum 70k out of the 6 idis ive owned only one had a pump that has replaced before 150k, the whole reason it was replaced is the bottom end gave out (19psi) and the motor was replaced. My old 85 F-350 had 500k with the original pump sure shes a bit loose, but it still starts up and runs good although she has a little smoke to her. Heres a link to stanadynes website and it will show you who sells the fuel addative. http://www.stanadyne.com/view.php?id=43

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Old 07-10-2009, 09:48 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Based on the posts in this thread I am surprised no answer was forthcoming.

Does the truck start well cold but hard when warm? If so, with the heavy white smoke that would be a classic worn out injection pump. New pump will make a world of difference.

Turbo should not have much if any in and out play although a little side to side play is allright as long as the blades are not contacting the housing.

Good find by the way.
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