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Old 10-13-2009, 05:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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clutch issue

Feel stupid about this, but I am at my wits end here.
Vehicle is a 93 F-350 with a 7.3 diesel. I bought it with a shelled out E4OD, with the plan of putting a manual in it. I had a 85-86 ish parts truck with a 6.9 and a T-19 in it, so I used the flywheel, bellhousing and transmission from it and got a new clutch kit from my local Carquest store, but optioned for a larger 12 inch clutch instead of the 11 that was on the 6.9. the clutch pedal and hydraulics from the parts truck would not work on the 93. so I sourced that stuff from a junkyard.

Got it all together and found that the clutch was not disengaging completely. It was suggested that I needed an adjustable pushrod for my master cylinder- just got done putting that in today, and kept adjusting it out more and more- to the point that I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the clutch fork back enough to get the slave back in place. Still not disengaging all the way, and the pedal is a lot firmer than it should be in my opinion- even pulling it back with the ratchet strap got to be very difficult. Even if the damn thing was disengaging, I think something would break/fatigue shortly due to the very hard effort required to push the pedal down.

any ideas for me???
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What year clutch master cylinder did you use? I know that there is a difference in the 92 and up ford clutch mc's along with the pedal assembly. Also, the diameter of the slave cylinder for the diesel is twice the size of what was on the 302 and 351. I would think that if the master cylinder was too small for the slave it wouldn't move enough fluid to work the correctly. Especially with a bigger clutch.

Here is a pic of the 6.9 slave cylinder


For some reason I can't find a pic of my 351w slave cylider to show a comparison.
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Its usual that you will in fact need to change the pushrod length in a swap like this for proper actuation, so the suggestion for the adjustable one was actually good.

However, other than jdeit's suggestion I don't have much to add, I've never messed around with the hydro clutches.
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i had sorta the same problem when i went from a 400 to 460. i got the wrong pilot bearing. it made the peddal hard to push and the clutch wouldnt disengauge all the way. the input shaft splines were bottoming out into the bearing. should of known when the wotor and trans wouldnt go together smoothly. yup, i was in high school, give me a little slack. might be something to look at.
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Cant say what the exact year was that I pulled the hydraulics and pedal assembly from, but it was from a 92-97 diesel truck. I have compared the slave to other slaves I have from other parts trucks- they all appear to be the same by outside appearances- the junkyard one, the 6.9 parts trucks, 460 parts trucks. Icant get over the fact of how damned HARD it is to get the pedal all the way to the floor- makes me think something is physically stopping something from moving. I have already started removing the tranny to pull the clutch parts out and take a look at them- I would like to think I am smart enough to not put a clutch disk in backwards, but I guess it happens. Even if that is the problem, it still does not make much sense. I had the thought of the pilot bushing causing drag on the input shaft, but the tranny slipped right together with the engine as I recall.
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Old 10-19-2009, 05:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just for the sake of closure on this issue, I pulled the clutch components out yesterday and found that the clutch disk is WAY too thick. New one coming shortly.
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