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Lets see your crew cab fords!!

90K views 186 replies 107 participants last post by  X-CAB-BRONCO 
#1 ·
Hears my crew cab ford. In the works are, tubing the rear, lockers and gears, interior cage, front bumper, lets see yours.
 
#53 ·
How i got her 8" 39.5 tsls
here are both of mine.

White one is a 97 PSD with some mods.
Grey one 95 with a 460 and in the proccess of turnin into a crawler
any of you guys have a pic of your trans crossmember were the front ddriveline is?
mine

7.3 idi, 5 speed, cc short bed, was 38.5's, now 35's
 
#8 ·
Rock yota did you herculine that whole lower half? That's pretty badass! I might have to steal that idea for my crewcab!







93-F350XL 351W ZF-5 speed. bedlinered the floorboards and have the interior pretty much done. It's been sittin like this for awhile and I need to get back to work on it soon! Gonna swap in another 351 that I have that is in better shape and build a flatbed and roof rack for it. Planning on stripping it down, primering it, and then painting it with Krylon Italian Olive rattle can paint. :D It'll make it easy to touch it up since I'll have a can in the glovebox. Lol.
 
#9 ·
Ill post specs now so when I'm home off my blackberry ill throw up a couple pics. Mine wasan '88 F350 C6 1356 60 front 10.25 Rear 4.10 first it was 8" on 38.5 11 boggs (shoulda left it that way) second it was on 15" and 44 boggs
 
#10 ·
Oh and I ditched the injected 460 for a 72 429PI carbed with a 750 got 14 mpg with the 44s
 
#14 ·
How i got her 8" 39.5 tsls

Painted her OD Green and slapped a new set of 38.5 11 boggs on And perched and shackleflipped for more lift

Then manned up to some 44's

and a suprisingly well fitting superduty bumper
 
#19 ·
I cannot remember brand I'm thinkin skyjacker they look like my 6" skyjackers in my 78 they are 8" springs tho. Ya I origonally wanted to section the blinkers out of my old 78 to put that bumper on. Its great especially cause it gives room for a winch too
 
#26 ·
Here's mine, 1994 F-350, it started life out as a 2wd with a 460. I have converted it to a 4wd with a 94' D60 and a F-450 ZF5 sp. I did a shackle reversal at the same time I did the 4wd conversion using F-350 springs and all factory components. I drove it for 2 years like that and got tired of the mileage of the 460, so a Cummins swap was in order. I found a 96' 12v with only 97,xxx miles, used a Destroked adapter plate to mate it to the ZF5 sp. I coupled it with a 13" South Bend clutch after moving the drive line back 3". The core support was changed to the PSD one along with the radiator. A 99' PSD inner cooler was used along with a bunch more fab work. I have it all finished up and running a #10 fuel plate along with AFC housing adjustments. I just don't have a finished pic of it yet.


Click here for my build tread




 
#27 ·
Offroad Addiction,
I am getting ready to build a very similar truck, 95 motor, in a 90 truck with a 92 front clip, I am curious as to the turbo to HVAC box clearance, and the necessity of the diesel core support/intercooler/radiator. I was hoping to run the 92 gas core support with the dodge intercooler and either a 460 radiator or dodge radiator. I am willing to buy the right stuff if needed, but not if I can use what I have. I will be checking your build thread out this weekend.
Thanks!
 
#30 ·
i'd be intreasted to hear from him but heres the way it worked for me. i cheated the engine as far over to the passenger side as i could. i have a 6bta so the turbo is on top of the exhaust manifold. the downpipe is close enought to the ac to melt through it though if i could find a muffler shop that could/ would make me a new downpipe i could get more distance. it seems the part that melted through was just some sort of vacuum box glued on the ac box. being a aftercooled engine i didn't need to worry about the intercooler and piping. i cut out a lot of firewall due to the rtoo9513 but with a light to medium duty tranny cutting would be minimal or maybe just a little work with bfh. the 460 radiator keeps it cold as long i have coolant. thats despite being backwards, the top of the radiator goes to the water pump inlet and the outlet on the head goes to the bottom of the radiator. most people do it the other way but i pulled an allnighter getting things put back together and had to use radiator hoses and stuff i had laying around. it's worked for long enough i see no reason to change it.
 
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