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ford specific question

5K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  Pt_Ranger_V8 
#1 · (Edited)
hey guys new here, been lurking a bit. I'm just doing some background prior to an actual purchase. My gf has an 85 3/4 ton chevy that we are going to get back into driving shape (needs brakes and a tune) to use on the farm she just purchased from her parents...

she's attached to the truck as her dad had it from new when she was little.... so a 4" shackle flip and lift with minor trimming and 37's with matte paint is all a go... but huge dents or major hurt (from trees) would be bad :(


I on the other hand like the early 90's f350's... and have been digging to see the common techniques used to get them onto 37's or 38's with minor trimming... this will be a New England truck... (maybe i should start with a ranger to fit between the trees) but i like the idea of STARTING with the 1 ton running gear... so here is my question... What companies support fords? This info doesn't jump out online as easy... everything is for superdutys it seems... which brand springs do most people use?

I'd post in the newb section (but brand specific will serve me better i think)

Also... why are there less FORD fullsize builds than chevys (b/c they are only getting cheaper now)? is there a site like coloradoK5 for fords that is NOT fullsizebronco.com? It seems like the 89-96 F-series is an easier/cleaner start than a lot of the 80's 3/4 and 1ton (if u can find them) GM's in the NE...

thanks great info on this site
 
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#2 ·
Well, IMO i would start with the F-350. Most likely will have an injected 460 and i beleive they were still running the C-6 tranny in them still. It will have a HP D-60 up front with the strong Sterling rear so you will be starting with a good driveline. I myself would get rid of the bed and shorten the frame/wheelbase for better maneuverability. You can fit 37" tires on with trimming but going with some suspension work would help. Its up to you if you want to just buy a suspension kit or if you dont mind wrenchen then build your own to suit your needs. I myself would ditch the Ford leaf springs and try to work with some GM leaf springs for more axle movement. Those 3" leafs dont flex much, not when compared to longer 2 1/2" leafs.
 
#3 ·
yea... basically what I was thinking --a shorter lower version of snowracer's HayWagon..


seems like a lot of work to straight axle a ranger and buy a driveline for it... if i can GET a beefy driveline in a truck... and shorten it and deal with body damage...

anyways thanks for your thoughts on the springs...
 
#4 ·
Well......................why do you think you have to buy aftermarket springs?

I love mixing and matching junkyard stuff, so that's what I've always done. By mixing the various arches that came from the factory with shackle flips or shackle reversals, and tweaking a bit with the number of leaves in your pack........... you can do it all for virtually free.

As for other sites, I guess there's FTE, but you won't find much hardcore offroad stuff there. But if you're bored you can go over there and just keep posting "LMC Truck" until he bans you.
 
#5 ·
Yep, i have a blast running thru the yards trying to find parts that will work... only problem is when you get to the gate and the guys want 5 bucks LESS than a NEW part....

anyways... cl post in my area http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1675307600.html

"87 ford f-350 460 fuel injected dana 60 axle for parts or repair - $1600 (wilmington) this truck runs and drives 100% with 71,000 original miles. the body is in good shape. tires are good, a/c works it has power windows and locks. the only bad thing is the frame cracked near the back wheel on passenger side. can definitly be repaired, not broken all the way through. im driving the truck daily this way. this is one heavy spec truck. dana 60 axles c-6 trans 460 injected, and steep gears. shes an animal. call me at 978-987-4193. with the frame fixed this truck would be worth 4000"


... who knows if it's all it is really cracked up to be, BUT i'm amazed at the prices these are going for... even 94's for 2000! thats WAAY better than buying a beater YJ!!! :laughing:

try that with a K30 1 ton GM! Guess the sterling rear and the diff transfer cases are a small detraction.

1600! its TAX-back season! :D:smokin::p
 
#6 ·
I'd post in the newb section (but brand specific will serve me better i think)

Also... why are there less FORD fullsize builds than chevys (b/c they are only getting cheaper now)? is there a site like coloradoK5 for fords that is NOT fullsizebronco.com? It seems like the 89-96 F-series is an easier/cleaner start than a lot of the 80's 3/4 and 1ton (if u can find them) GM's in the NE...

thanks great info on this site
Answering my own question from a while back to close the loop in case anyone needs the info, it was not something i saw discussed too much:

I was searching for the common recipe used to lift 90's OBS F350's found a wealth of knowledge on shackle reversals purchased from ORU also commonly reffered to as a RSK see the powerstroke forum for info:http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=978807


"D60 with superduty springs, "v" and "b" codes, 4" rear blocks, and 35" tires. The OBSWIZ SUPER DUTY CONVERSION. "

also see this picture thread http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19949 and this post: http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=518112#post518112

the info applies to F250, F350 and fitting 35" + sized tires... wish it was that easy on the duramax! :shaking:
 
#7 · (Edited)
All it takes to put 35's on a 250 or 350 is some bumper trimming on a 92+,
This is my 96 with 212K of hard miles and NO lift, tires are 315/75R16 BFG M/T's on 16x10's.


Just some bumper trimming, nothing else. A 350 is 2" taller on both ends.

This is 44's on my 86 with a homebrew SRK and Superduty springs of unknown code:






There's a 3" BL and a bunch of fender cut off, but, the truck is still very low for a mainly mud rig on 44's.
The only Non OEM part in the entire suspension is the SRK crossmember. Used stock shackles for the rear for the front, rear is a shackle flip with another set of front brackets for the rear springs at the rear. It really isn't hard or expensive to get a F350 sitting on some big meats.
 
#8 ·
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but it was talking about exactly what I want to know.

For my next truck I really want an older body style crew cab 4x4 for camping and towing and light wheeling, and it will have a Cummins 12V swap and a shortened wheelbase and chopped bed.

I cant decide between a 88-91 K30 or a 95-97 F350 to do the swap with. Since the engine wont matter, what about frames and suspension and even things like AC and interior? What about flex? They both have the D60 and a good enough rear, so that's kind of a wash.

It seems like the Chevys are done way more often, and the aftermarket options are much larger. I hear that the ford 3" springs dont flex as well, but im sure that can be changed. What would y'all rather start with? Anyone deal with both regularly? I always get fan boys that would never think of the other, but I'm not like that at all. If its better its better.
 
#9 ·
The Ford is a newer chassis and interior than the Chevy, it is far more modern and is easier to find with all the modern conveniences, you will want a 94+ if you want full power in all the doors.
There are many Cummins F350 crew cab builds out there, but the majority of them are still nice tow rigs.
The Ford springs flex plenty well, and are considerably longer in both ends than what Chevy installed in their solid axle trucks, which makes for better flex and ride, and a RSK in the front with a SuperDuty spring swap makes for even longer springs yet.
Solely by fender opening design, the Ford will fit more tire with less lift.

As far as frames are concerned, they are both comparable.

Structure wise, the Chevy does have a slight advantage, as GM had the forethought to add a third set of cab mounts in the middle of the cab, Ford did not. I have seen a few Ford crews that cracked up around the cab mounts, but, their lives didn't include much pavement. My 96 at 227K doesn't have this problem, but I have seen a couple 60K mile trucks that did. It all depends on the truck's previous life.

If I was thinking about the build you are and finding a Chevy crew that wasn't a big pile of rust wan't an issue, it would come down to which body and interior is your preference.

Around here my preference is heavily swayed towards the Ford chassis, simply due to availability, rust has consumed most of the old GM crews, and those in useable shape bring a price premium, while I picked up my 96 PSD crew for a whopping $600 in good useable shape.
 
#11 ·
I actually just saw that I had a message when I was searching and found this thread and asked my question. Thanks a ton for your help too! I'm trying to get all the opinions I can before I decide which one to buy.

By the way did you ever have a chance to measure what your old bed ended up being?

And it seems like a lot of people are saying go with the ford for a number of reasons. Interesting.
 
#12 · (Edited)
By the way did you ever have a chance to measure what your old bed ended up being?
actually it got hauled to the scrap yard like 3 weeks ago, along with all the other quality factory ford parts i didnt need :p

sorry, but it was cut right at the front of the wheel wells. if that helps any :shaking:


And it seems like a lot of people are saying go with the ford for a number of reasons. Interesting.
huh, ya dont say :flipoff2:
that may be directly correlated to the forum you posted in :D
but glad you found my pm's helpful
 
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