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Winch Question

6K views 66 replies 23 participants last post by  ckeely91 
#1 · (Edited)
My dad and I are thinking about installing a 4500 lb winch on our 1994 ford f150 that we bought for a different purpose awhile ago. But we know that 4500 is pretty low. We want to know if it can serve a purpose off roading if we get stuck. i heard that a snatch block helps it significantly with pulling power, but i don't know for sure.

Also, what should go on the winch besides the metal rope stuff, because i heard that stuff is extremely dangerous, and there's better stuff to put on it. I just don't know what.

And we're not even sure exactly how to mount it. Yeah we're noobs :flipoff2:
So please give some tips, THANKS
 
#3 ·
That's a decent A.T.V. winch, at best. I run a 6,000lbs winch on mine. I would look at something rated for 9,500-12,000lbs... That is guaranteed to get you out or tear the mount. The fullsizes are running 16.500 "electric"-20,000lbs hydro winches. One of those cases where you are better safe than sorry.

Maybe for trail use, but what about when ya really need that damn thing, and it leaves ya stuck with a welded motor 130 plus miles from town with no cell service...?? Ya dig?


I am a total newb and know shit, flame on...
 
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#5 · (Edited)
A 4500lb winch is pretty small, and it is probably not very rugged even for occasional pulls.
However, if that's what you have, put it on and wait for a deal on a better winch. Build your winch mount around a standard pattern for 8k and bigger winches, make an adapter plate for your 4500 if necessary and go wheeling.
You might want to make sure someone else is with you when you go (that's good practice anyway) that has a good winch or lots of manual recovery gear.
I learned how to get myself out of a bind the hard way, and while maybe not fun at the time has served me well later on when things have gone wrong.
The important thing is to get out and wheel and have fun. Getting stuck and getting creative getting out is part of the experience, and makes fodder for stories around the campfire later.

As far as the wire rope, just buy or make some weights to hang over the rope when on a pull. An innertube from a car tire cut into about a 2ft chunk with the ends tied off and mostly filled with sand works. Cover that with the leg off a pair of jeans to give it some protection. I wouldn't buy winch rope for this winch, wait until you find a bigger one and update that.
I would invest in a Hi-lift jack, some chain, gloves, a tree saver and some tire repair parts/kit.
I've seen more anchor points give way than I've seen cable, so make sure your hooks or whatever are solid.

If you search around here for winch bumpers, you should see LOTS of examples of how to build a solid mount.
 
#6 ·
But we don't have the money to buy a modified bumper or anything. Is there a way to do it with a stock bumper? We were thinking instead of cutting out th bumper to fit the winch, to have a reciever hitch bolted under the truck, so a winch with a hookup could slide into it when necessary. We're trying to be innovative :flipoff2:
 
#7 ·
I modded a reciever hitch so that the license plate hid the mount. That worked pretty well in my 84 bronco. I just had to cut a square hole in the bumper.

If you have access to a welder and a grinder you can make a quickie bumper for pretty cheap. Hit the salvage yards and try to find material in the scrap section.
 
#11 ·
WOW people are being nice today. Tip from a noob to a noob, do a ton of searching and reading and research on this site before posting a question like this. You are very unlikely to get as many helpful responses as you got with this question the next time. Plus, if you go read through a build of a similar vehicle to yours, you'll end up finding a lot of inspiration for your rig, even if you don't find the answer your looking for.
 
#12 ·
Since everyone else is playing nice, I guess I will too. That JC whitney mount will work perfectly, but that actually drops below the bumper. The better way is to build one that fits behind the bumper. It doesn't need to stick out any, just flush with the back side of the bumper. Since your truck is a 94 it has the acordion front frame horns, which sucks, but you can weld or bolt C channel to the inside and make it work. Then you need a piece of 3"x3" ID 1/4" wall square tubing as wide as the distance from plate to plate, and another piece of 2"x2" ID 1/4" wall square tubing about a foot long for the actual reciever. Then all you have to do is trace the OD of your 2x2 onto your 3x3 dead center as it mounts, cut it out front and back, slide your 2x2 in, and weld it front and back. OR you could use all 2x2, butt weld the reciever dead center, gusset it top and bottom, and be sure to mount it back far enough/ make your reciever deep enough to accept the winch mount. The winch mount is as simple as getting a foot of 2x2 OD 1/4" wall tubing, and an 8x14 or so piece of 1/4" plate, then welding them together, maybe some handles on the sides to move it from the tool box to the mounting location, front or rear. Also, remember you are going to have to buy 2 plug sets, one for the front, and one for the rear, and a bunch of feet of at least 2 gauge wire.
 
#14 ·
Great idea. simple too. I was imagining something like that, a piece of steal spanning between the frame, with a hitch in the middle.

My dad was thinking of making the receiver hitch on only one side of the truck, by using a steel plate above the frame, bolted to two plates running down each side, which then bolt to eachother through two bolts on the bottom through the receiver hitch. I argued because im pretty sure you need to have it centered, and i wasn't sure about the strength of it....
 
#13 · (Edited)
Pitbull nailed it.
I used a reciever because I had it and it was free. But, for the $129 or more that JCW wants you can get a lot of steel.

Mine did stick out of the bumper quite a little, I'd forgotten. It did make a nice step and made it easier to get the pin in. It should have been recessed about 3" more, though.

Here's the best pic I can find of it.

http://www.m4x4a.org/index.php?module=mGallery2&g2_itemId=20102
 
#15 ·
Save up and get at least a 9000 lb winch.
anf 150 isn't that much lighter than f250's.
My f350 weighs in at 7800# trail weight with big tires, so even if your truck weighs in at 6000# , 9000# is barely up to the 1.5 multiple for a light stuck.
if you get it stuck to the frame rails you will need 3X the weight for pulling force.
Which would be 18000#.
Your 4500 cable will snap before you put enough pulleys on it to pull you out.
 
#26 · (Edited)
What exactly does this super mount, have to do with the winch in question??

I can see it being used on a winch that can pull... But..., the winch in question couldn't bust a grape in a wine factory, while wearing golf shoes...


So, what's your point again?
Damn, 9 posts and already being an asshole. Just what this board needs :shaking:
Again, not everyone is as dumb as you think they are. He's not planning on keeping this thing forever...

There's a lot to be gained by reading the thread....
 
#18 ·
FWIW my 94 F150XL Reg cab long bed W/ 4.9L I6, M5OD manual tranny, 4" Rough Country lift (springs, not blocks), 33x12.50R15 Micky Claws on US Wheel Series 70 15x10s, a tool box full of tools and recovery gear, both tanks full of fuel, my wife, my dog, and me weighed in at 5060 on the scale at the dump.
 
#21 ·
Although its a weak winch, we bought it for a different purpose, and we decided since its doing nothing just laying in the garage, might as well try putting it on the truck :D. I think it'll be good once we have a receiver hitch up front, and a winch mount that can hold heavier duty winches in the future
 
#22 ·
The winch came with a plate that connects to the bottom, with four bolts, that curves from under the winch in front of it, and bolts to the fairlead, holding the fairlead in place. In the middle of the plate there are 3 unused holes which im guessing you can use to bolt to a plate. If we wanted to, we could drill as many holes as we wanted to mount it right? Im pretty sure that's not the standard bolt pattern
 
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#23 ·
Seriously!! What he said. I don't know exactly how you aren't wearing a flame proof suit, but... You are headed there. That winch is small for an A.T.V... You're trying to put it on a full size, 5400lbs truck??

Figure it out dude, it wont work. Not trying to be a dick here, but... You can lead a horse to water, but...?? Can you make him drink?


Just because you can physically bolt it too your truck, doesn't mean it will help extract said truck from said stuck. :homer:
 
#24 · (Edited)
The mount I suggested, when viewed from the bottom (ie, its mounted to the truck and you are on your back, under the truck, with your feet facing towards the front) it will look like an I with a hard on, said hard on being the reciever, which would be dead center, also pointing forward. The top and bottom of the I are the pieces of C channel or plate you bolt/weld to your frame, and the center section of the I is the cross tube of 3x3 .25 wall or 2x2 .25 wall. Its REALLY simple man. I mean, this is the kind of stuff I've been doing since second grade. The reason I suggested C channel is if you can find some that is as wide inside the C as your frame is tall, you can basically lay it over and weld it around the perimeter, and it will strengthen the frame from 3 sides.
 
#31 ·
Exactly... Unless you are trying to bump start a truck in 3rd gear. You cannot rely on a 4500lbs winch. And an "El Cheapo" 8000lbs winch is pushing your luck at best. The motor is what takes the punishment, and cheap motors all weld the same way. Over loaded or over used... Granted, he could use "6 snatch blocks" and hope to get out, or he could just buy the right winch.

Once again, why blow smoke up his ass???
 
#34 ·
Closer to the top one with a little more mud or snow.

I understand that a 4500 pounder wont ever get us out, but will it maybe get us out ifwe are stuck in shallow mud, with a snatchblock? My dad's pretty convinced that it can get us out but i highly doubt it.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Tow hook install point & possible winch cross member install point

Here is a plate that is welded to the frame to hold the bumper on. Could we just weld the 2x2 or 3x3 square tubing to that plate, all the way to the plate on the other side? The plate right there is welded to the frame.



Also, heres from my other thread:

i have those aftermarket chrome ones mounted facing down on the bottom of my frame rail. you have to take off the factory plastic air dam but who needs that anyway?
Is this the plastic air dam? Im almost guarunteed it is but i just want to make sure.

 
#37 ·
If you insist on mounting a 4500# winch, i wouldn't waste time mounting it up front.
Bolt it on the rear bumper. Its most likely it will pull you out backwards through your own tracks than pull you forward through a mud hole.

If you can't make it through, at least you can back up and go home.:flipoff2:

leave the front clear for when you can get a Real Truck Winch.

Good lluck
 
#39 · (Edited)
That plate is pushing it. I'd weld it on the back side all the way around at the very least. As far as the rubber mat thing you have between your core support, and your bumper, that can come out, no problem, the only thing its good for is catching mud, but it does help deflect some mud from the front of the radiator. The air dam somebody else was probably talking about is the black plastic chin piece they put on some bumpers that hangs down a few inches like this http://z.about.com/d/4wheeldrive/1/0/P/W/1/Shadowhunter_GA_96F150_RR.jpg
The reality is, you should have a removable winch mount, similar to this: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-winch/mile-marker/images/mile-marker-cradlemount-banner.jpg
Harbor Freight sells one (they sell Chicago winches too, which I have on good athority that the 12,500lb is a good one) or you can make one for CHEAP.
You WANT a removable for several reasons, the least of which is to move it to the front or rear, as required per how and where you are stuck.
You can use these: http://image.tradevv.com/2008/08/11...sc175-bl-ups-connector-plug-charging-plug.jpg and run power cables to the front and rear, with that plug, and they have male and female plugs, so its as simple as putting your winch where you want it, and hooking up the wires.
The reality is, you don't need a winch good for 1.5x your vehicle weight in your case, because you are not pulling your truck over rock walls, or super deep mud. A 9K winch will pull a 5k truck out of thick sucking clay mud up to the axle tubes with no problem. You are wheeling alone, and need to make sure you don't get stuck and have to rely on someone elses good graces to get you out.
You never said, what is this vehicle setup? Give us Cab and Bed style, engine, transmission, tire and wheel size, how many fuel tanks, if it has a tool box or other weight adders that are always present, etc. This is what you should start every post you are asking a question with
Example: I have a Regular Cab, long bed 1988 F-350 4x4 5 speed with a stroke'd EFI460, 38x12.50" TSL tires on 16.5x9.75" wheels, stock axles, and lockers front and rear. It has a tool box with a couple hundred pounds of tools and recovery gear, custom fab'd 1/4 plate bumpers, and dual fuel tanks.
This gives everyone an idea of what you are working with, an idea of how much it weighs or how capable it is, so we can help you further.
 
#41 ·
You never said, what is this vehicle setup? Give us Cab and Bed style, engine, transmission, tire and wheel size, how many fuel tanks, if it has a tool box or other weight adders that are always present, etc. This is what you should start every post you are asking a question with
Example: I have a Regular Cab, long bed 1988 F-350 4x4 5 speed with a stroke'd EFI460, 38x12.50" TSL tires on 16.5x9.75" wheels, stock axles, and lockers front and rear. It has a tool box with a couple hundred pounds of tools and recovery gear, custom fab'd 1/4 plate bumpers, and dual fuel tanks.
This gives everyone an idea of what you are working with, an idea of how much it weighs or how capable it is, so we can help you further.

Prolly the best way to give people an idea of what your truck weighs is to weigh it :homer: A local feed mill or scrap dealer should be able to help ya out with that.
 
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