Hi ,
I figured i'd post a makeover of my truck. Mainly to fix a few issues i wasn't happy with.
For those that don't know my truck, here it is after the last mods. about 2 years ago.
The main issue I wanted to address was the rear overhang.
It kept dragging its ass enough to tweak the frame a bit.
After a particularly hostile 3 day trip across the Jungle dragging an M37 out, the front frame horns where the shackle reverse kit bolts on showed some cracking.
So the front frame was boxed in and the shackle reverse was extended and reinforced.
This is what it will sort of look like.
The bedsides will be bolted On and removeable.
The fuel tanks were replaced with a resized International Truck Unit.
About 45 Gal.The 2 rear crosmembers were replaced with bolt on tube crossmembers. 2x2 and 2x4 tube was used with 3/8 plate.
A carter fuel pump replaces the lift Pump, and a return style regulator adjusts fuel pressure.
Stak 3 speed. 3.05 and 5.4 low range.
I'm crossing my fingers and hoping to get a Good One...
made a steel bed out of 2x2 and 2x4 Tube. Yeah its heavy, but i want it strong. I included a roll hoop made out of 3/16 thick 2x4. Its mounted to the frame behind the cab with 3/8 plate, and has a pivot point on the rear crossmember . The bed floats over the chassis and allows the chassis to Flex without trying to taco the bed.
The rear winch mount is tucked closer to the frame
I recut the fenders and built new inner fenders.
The cut is shaped for bushwacker flares i plan to make larger out of Fiberglass
you should look into silverback flares from wild horses instead for the cheap plastic bushwhackers or fiberglass. I'm guessing that the thick clay mud flying off the tires would just crack them. Sick truck though regardless.
Those flares look sweet.
I like the way they bolt on and super flexible.
I have a set of bushwackers i bought new but was disapointed on how flimsy the plastic was and how they mount to the fender. So i never mounted them.
They are cheaply made, but not really cheap$$$ if you know what i mean.
I\ll probably use them as molds and make my own set out of thick fiberglass and extend them to match my wheel openings.
I'll probably have to fix or replace them every other year anyways, as the trails we run usually takes em out.
I cant tell from the pics, but how close is the rear tire going to be to that step bar at full stuff? With what you have done I figure you took that possibility into account. Is there a way you can take a pic of it at full stuff?
There is plenty of space between the slider and the rear tire, even for chains.
The pic angle probably doesn't show it though.
its pretty hard to stuff that rear tire into the well, it really needs a couple thousand lbs in the bed to make the bump stops touch.
We're trying to finish up the build quick as there is a pretty hardcore 2 day trail lined up for this weekend.
I'll post some more picts tomorrow when its closer to done.
Quick question. When you put the 45g tank in the rear, did you have to use the new fuel pumps and return lines, or was that just something you wanted to do? I want to link my truck, but really want to try to leave as much as the factory stuff as I can, or make it look as factory as possible. I have a 97 psd by the way.
Hi,
I installed new lines and Pump because I was getting grief from the selector, the lift pump and the whole dual tank setup.
You don't have to do it, but for me i wanted to upgrade my system and use the -8 fittings on the tank.
BTW its 40 galons. I guess we cut a little more than i thought.
I replaced the rear crossmembers with a bolt on 2x4 tube, This makes the frame a lot stiffer and stronger.
A finished pict taken at 6am on the way to the trail.
I liked the fender work too, but i didn't get enough clearance with the small lift and chains i run. The bed was getting really bad cause it flexes so much the way it mounts to the frame.
So I decided to do the steel frame bed with bedsides bolted on. I have planned to run Bushwacker shaped cut out flares copied out of fiberglass, which is the main reason the wheel wells are shaped this way. The flares need a flat surface to bolt on to.
Another shot of the bed.
In hind sight, i should have finished the rear bumper.
A little trail carnage, Brand new tail lamp. probably 16 hour mounted. I think its a new record for me. Usually they last a few trips befor taking em out.
Really my fault. wrong gear and wrong line. YouTube - Slippery hill descent
The bed pivoting in the back of the frame has really worked out well. The bed stay straight and square as the chassis flexes.
Didn't hurt much, crumpled a rear quarter panel. Not a big deal.
Just sucks when you know its going over real slow and can't do much about it.
It was a pain to get it over because there were no winch points near.
Got it stuck on another trip where i broke a front axle which killed a dynatrac balljoint Causing the knuckle to fall out. A freind brouht in the parts and we drove out the nest day. Then got it stuck here.
After breaking several crmly front stubs I decided to upgrade to RCV's
I had to replace the balljoints and the inner C cause it was all damages at the last incident.
Me too. This is reminiscent of what I am going for on mine. I like how you did your best to retain the factory sheet metal, dress it up, and make it stout while you were at it.
More please. I'd like to have just the axle shafts myself.
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