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2005 f-250, 6.0 hydrolocked

16K views 61 replies 15 participants last post by  chris fresh 
#1 ·
pretty sure my motor is hydrolocked.started blowin white smoke on the way home from a trip yesturday and wouldn't crank today.just makes a thud noise.anyone know if i can just pull the injectors and flush it out?. i had a bad injector seal last year,smoked the same,never got to this point and the dealer fixed it because it was still under warranty.now it's not and i'm gonna have to learn how to fix it on my own.

any info or links on injector stuff is greatly appriciated
 
#5 ·
yep, thats an egr cooler, pull the egr valve and look inside, you will see coolant, make sure you replace the oil cooler at the same time or you will have a repeat failure, pull the glow plugs out to clear it after you drain the coolant, it is about a grand in parts for everything you will need to repair this. head gaskets dont smoke out the exhaust on
6.0l..
 
#6 ·
Thanks man,i'm going to start sourcing parts.i have to do this on my own,i don't have the cash or enough ammo to deal with the dealer.they told me about a thousand dollars last year to do an EGR valve,then i found out you could get one for 229.00 and it took about 5 minutes to swap it out. or i could just get the gasket and o-rings for 4 bucks and clean it with carb cleaner,another 6 bucks. so for 10 dollars i fixed a 1000 dollar dealer repair.

i heard a roaring noise also,truck got a new clutch fan at 99,000. now i have 128,000 and i think i need a new one of those again. 30,000 miles out of a clutch fan that was 300 bucks? yeah sounds about right.this truck has been towed to the dealer 6 times since the 67,000 mile mark.

gettin real old with me now.
 
#9 ·
would love to,but i heard the kit is about 600 bucks and i still don't have the knowledge to do it.
 
#11 ·
you must have gotten lucky with o-rings on a egr valve, usually it is a problem with the potentiometer inside the unit or a sticking issue, the roaring can be caused by a normal command of the fan due to getting hot especially since the coolant will be low from the cooler rupturing, fyi, the egr valve should not just be swapped out, you need to run a koeo self test to reset the base valve setting or dtc's and driveability issues result, i should probably also say that the reason the egr cooler pops is due to lack of coolant flow, the oil cooler gets the flow first and feeds the egr cooler, the oil cooler plugs up and restricts coolant flow to the egr cooler and it ruptures, even if you delete the egr cooler, you will melt your engine in short order due to oil overtemp if it is plugged, just one good hill with a plugged oil cooler and oil will go to 225-230 degrees, not good..
 
#13 ·
earlier this week i started the truck one morning and got a little puff of white smoke,same way it started last year.so i pulled the egr and cleaned it,replaced the o-rings and gasket.fired up the truck and it was pushin white smoke.took it for a ride and it cleaned out,then started getting the traditional black smoke with some hesitation,then it cleared out and was fine for a day or two.thought i had it licked.the new oil cooler thing now makes sense to me with what you posted.

i could care less about eliminating the egr,this truck is completely stock with no mods.i have plenty of modified toys and i have never done anything with this thing because it's my daily driver,i just want it to start and drive how it should.i love the truck,but we all know having to turn a wrench every month gets old.
 
#12 ·
head over to the nation and see what they have to say. ask a guy named doug, gogodiesel. His knowledge of the 6.0 is second to none. I would delete the egr if you can, if not, after you replace it GET A COOLANT FILTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!! When International cast these blocks they used sand, some of the sand is still in the coolant passages. It collects in the EGR and you loose flow, it over heats and a slew of problems follow. You can get a cooler from dieselsite for around a hundred bucks I think.


micky
 
#14 ·
i'm all for a coolant filter,and at a hundred bucks,i'll defiitly do one.but this truck is an 05 and i just turned 128,000,do you really thing there could be something left in the block at this point?, i just can't see that.maybe there was and now over time,it's what clogged (or help clog) the oil cooler and lead to this.
 
#17 · (Edited)
i'll take the hundred and two good smacks to the jaw



cause that's what it's gonna take to get the bad taste out of my mouth with the motor. :laughing:

here it is,just so you know what your getting yourself into
 

Attachments

#18 · (Edited)
I'm no diesel mechanic, so this is just what I was told by my (non-dealer)mechanic... but it makes sense. I had 3 injectors down (I'm like you, I love the truck, but...)... Ford wanted $1800 to do 3 and an injector clean on the rest... I had all 8 done (NOT at the dealer! And, if you've got 2 or 3 bad, the rest are on their way). Paid $4200 to have all 8 AND the egr cooler replaced. At 10k miles after repair, I'm gonna go back and have him block it off. He said that these motors will be fine for a LONG time IF you do the following: change the oil/filter AND fuel filters every 3000 miles... and add power service to every tank of fuel. The injectors in this motor are particularly affected by poor fuel quality (Ford/IH designed the motor/injectors to run on fuel with a cetane level about 3 points higher than what you can currently get at the pump), low fuel pressure (don't EVER run it out of fuel!), and dirty/degrading oil. The egr cooler was just a bad idea. But, it can (should) be blocked off. BTW, mine is also and '05 and had 128k on it when I had these repairs done... cooler hadn't ruptured yet, just replaced it while he was in there as a preventative. I'm not saying my problem and yours is the same, just offering what I was told to make this motor live a long and productive life. If you just have a cooler problem, and injectors are fine, this maintenance schedule may keep them good for a long time.

Any feedback FordTechGuru? This all sound right to you?
 
#19 ·
clean oil is number one, never go past 5000 miles on a change, as far as the "i got sand in my oil cooler" i suspect that is a web legend, but, i am doing one right now and can cut it apart and see, i drain coolant all day long out of these and have never seen any sand come out of these cooling systems, some guys seem to think that but i have never seen it, sand is heavy and will accumulate in the bottom of a radiator, the oil cooler is up high in the valley of the engine... ford injectors are around $400 ea, injector cleaning is a waste of money, the failure point is the oil side of the injector...
 
#21 ·
i never go past 4000 on a change,most of the time it's around 3500,if it falls when i have the time to do it.

as far as draining the coolant,wheres the best place to do so? lower hose or somewhere better?

also how involved is the "getting to" the oil cooler?
 
#24 ·
so basically i'm gonna have to remove everything off the top of the motor to get to this thing correct?,sayin that it's a 12 hour paying job,would of like to hear it's a 3 hour paying job. :D.

i'm sure theres gotta be a write up somewhere that i can reference from,i'm just not familiar with this thing at all,i'm not scared of it,but it is a little intimidating your first time.i'm also going to try and find some sort of service book for this motor also,something i can have in hand while sitting ontop of this thing turning wrenches.

also is the flush something i can do,or do i have to have it done?if it's as easy as filling it,running it,draining it,that would be nice.
 
#25 ·
yeh, fill, run, drain.. yep, all you gotta do is pull the turbo, oil housing, intake manifold, turbo pedestal, ficm, air box, then the oil cooler, then dissassemble the cooler and install the kit, reassemble and change the oil, oh, make sure the h/p oil screen isn't ruptured also while the cooler is out too, and be carefull not to get any dirt into the engine while doing this job, otherwise you will need an ipr next week... simple eh...
 
#27 ·
well i'm going to start pullin stuff off in a little while,i guess making room to get to the intake manifold.there will be lots of pictures taken along the way for reassemble reference.
and for the coolant in the cylinder/s,after i drain the system i guess i have to pull the injectors.
do i pull the injectors and crank it to flush?
and should i do that first before the disassembaly part?
 
#33 ·
well so far i have drained all the coolant, a little better than half of a 5 gallon bucket,seemed like there should be more.just for laugh's i looked thru my my owners manual to try and find coolant info on how much,whatta joke.that book is about as good as a short dick,but i read 11 times to not pull the cap while hot, or i might burn myself. :shaking:.

pulled all the airbox stuff,upper rad hose,coolant res,alternator and piping connected to the turbo.starting to clear out in order to get to the intake.

heres where the no turning back thoughts begin,looks like alot of fun unbolting the turbo to,but not as much as the egr cooler,how the fuck do you get to that thing?from the back?is there anything else i should do while all this shit is apart?
 
#29 ·
I've been a Ford tech since 1988 and I'm so glad I never got involved with the diesel side of the shop:D I counted five 08' and newer trucks the other day with the cabs up in the air:eek: makes me glad I kept my 05' 6.0 it's been one of the good ones so far.
 
#34 ·
shit your goin to town eh? put the upper rad hose back on, you dont have to dick with it, turbo is fairly easy, you need a 10mm wrench, 11mm deep socket w/wobbly, 10mm socket and a 6" extension, it would take me 10 minutes to just do it or 30 minutes to type out how to do the job and i am getting hungry and shit, dont pull the fan or shroud either, if you look at it, you will see it is a straight foreward job, three 10mm bolts, two v-band clamps, one oil supply tube, and wiring harness, you can do it !! let me know when it is off..
 
#37 ·
right now i'm in a holding pattern,i think i have a guy somewhat local to me that i can source the parts from,just waiting for him to return my call so we can go over the details.i don't want to go any further before knowing availability.i would rather keep the motor closed up until i have parts in hand or at least in route.
 
#35 ·
shit weave sounds like you dream in 6.0 :flipoff2:






but after a few they do get easyer. i think im in the mid/hi teens in the last lear or so.


weave --- the big gay truck smokes a little now after a long drive - then sit for a few, upon start up black/ blue smoke ?
 
#38 ·
go over to the nation or the org and search for coolant filter. There are guys pulling a table spoon full of sand out of these engines after a full flush. There a pics of the media full of shit and the stuff that fell out when they were disassembling the filters.

Next run Valvoline extreme blue 5/40 syn ALL THE TIME. when its hot it acts like a 40, its easier on the injectors on start up. Those two will help a ton.


micky
 
#40 ·
well, i got some crap out of the cooler and took some pics but i cant email fom my phone, i would say there is sediment or sand in it but it is a goo, like brown valve grinding compound consistancy or thick mud... pics later (if i can figure it out or send it to someone with a 3g phone)
 
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