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'67 Bronco all original - yah or nah

2K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  br0nc0xrapt0r 
#1 ·
Been a Jeep guy for years, but looking at a vintage Bronco for top off summer fun. Curious to know from those here what are the problem points to look for, and if it would be more PITA than fun.

Here are a few pics. $6k - $7k. 3spd, 289 V8. Apparently all original and mechanically sound with no work needed.





 
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#4 ·
Classicbroncos.com has a lot of good info on what to look for as far as rust, it may look nice but there are lots of spots for nasty rust to hide on the early Broncos. ^k is a lot for a 67' also they were very plain jane with no power steering, auto transmission, and a Dana 30 instead of the later Dana 44 if you plane on wheeling it you might be better off finding a later model.
 
#8 · (Edited)
no work needed.
Oh, they always need something.

6K seems a little steep, but you pay a premium for originality. Not many unmolested ones out there, especially in the midwest. You generally have to travel to the southwest to find one that isn't falling apart.

Typical rust spots; Door pillars, both hinge and striker posts. Floor boards, around the high beam switch in particular. Rear wheel wells at the floor, front wheel wells at the side panel. Anywhere the the tires through gunk into the nooks and crannys.

In your 3rd pic the off color paint seems to indicate the floors have been replaced, and could use replacement again. With the floor mats and carpet out the rust hunt will be easier. The door, top, and windshield seal rubber shrink when they get old and let the rain in, which collects in the carpet, or under the floormat. That causes the interior rust as seen in your picture.

Crawl underneath and look at the floors and rockers. See what has been replaced and gain some negotiating points.
I've seen frames rusted through so look for that too. Just behind the rear wheels at the low spot is where water will collect.

Original paint makes it easier to find the bad spots. Fresh body work can hide a multitude of sins.

Just look it over and decide how much it is worth to you. I've seen much worse condition for a good chunk of that price. Not many nice originals survived in the rust belt. They are a lot of fun to drive, but they are old and will need plenty of tinkering. They are simple and reliable though, so don't let a little work scare you off if you want one.
 
#9 ·
Oh, they always need something.

6K seems a little steep, but you pay a premium for originality. Not many unmolested ones out there, especially in the midwest. You generally have to travel to the southwest to find one that isn't falling apart.

Typical rust spots; Door pillars, both hinge and striker posts. Floor boards, around the high beam switch in particular. Rear wheel wells at the floor, front wheel wells at the side panel. Anywhere the the tires through gunk into the nooks and crannys.

In your 3rd pic the off color paint seems to indicate the floors have been replaced, and could use replacement again. With the floor mats and carpet out the rust hunt will be easier.

Crawl underneath and look at the floors and rockers. See what has been replaced and gain some negotiating points.
I've seen frames rusted through so look for that too. Just behind the rear wheels at the low spot is where water will collect.

Original paint makes it easier to find the bad spots. Fresh body work can hide a multitude of sins.

Just look it over and decide how much it is worth to you. Not many nice originals survived in the rust belt. They are a lot of fun to drive, but they are old and will need plenty of tinkering. They are simple and reliable though, so don't let a little work scare you off if you want one.
Don't forget cowl rust behind the dash. And look for frame rust in back just up from the rear frame horns.
 
#11 ·
I have two eb's, and the main thing I look to rule out for a purchase is excessive rust; like many have also pointed out. Crawl over that thing carefully and check its cancer condition.

Also, I think his asking price is a little high. Granted, its uncut but it has some visible rust issues and the earlier years are not as desireable due to their equipment (Dana 30 vs 44, no power steering, etc.). Personally, I've never seen the value on paying a premium on an uncut EB unless your plan is to fully restore it to 100% stock condition/show status. They look good with the flares anyways and most of them have already been converted.

In any case, a EB belongs in every guys vehicle collection. They are the shiznit when fixed up :smokin:
 
#13 ·
I got this for $9K

 
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