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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 147254
Posts: 30
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dana 60 conversion
on a 93 f350 DRW 4x2. I'm using all the stock parts from the donor (89 d60) and read on a few threads here about the cross member on 4x2's being different. Am I going to have to cut the crossmember?
Also anyone done a conversion like this one? I found a thread about it once here but lost it now. Thank You. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Cactus Farmer
Join Date: Sep 2010
Member # 168243
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 1,571
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My truck started as a 4x2, and I am running a reverse shackle setup in the front that I fabricated myself. As far as the crossmember being different, they are on the 4x2 trucks but the only difference I could see between my '83 2x4 and my '94 4x4 is that the 2wd crossmember didn't have indentions or bolt holes to mount up a Dana 50 TTB.
Either way with a D60 it shouldn't matter. Since it is gonna need some fab work on the frame horns anyhow I strongly suggest running a reverse shackle setup, it is way better for ride quality and gives you lift at the same time.
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-Dave Last edited by Dr.Danger; 10-10-2010 at 11:35 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member # 152532
Location: Montgomery County, MD
Posts: 686
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 147254
Posts: 30
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I read about the RS in this forum -and I don't argue it-, for now I will go with the stock spring shackle bracket setup, mainly bc I want to keep the truck at the same hight or close to it but I have no idea what death wobble feels like so I'll leave the door open for a future RS kit.
I'm glad the CM won't get in the way, I'm getting ready to drill the frame for the spring brackets, etc. How do You guys figure where to drill if You don't have a donor to look at? I have a good idea where the rear bracket should go (lines up with one bolt under the cab mount I think) but no idea where to drill for the front shackle bracket. Thank You. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Cactus Farmer
Join Date: Sep 2010
Member # 168243
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 1,571
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I won't be able to get a specific measurement due to both of my trucks being 130 miles away atm. Hopefully someone here may have pics but if not go down the local wrecking yard and take your camera and tape measure.
As for the reverse shackle setup, you may wanna think about just doing it now and putting some factory 4x4 rear lift blocks (4") on her. The TTB trucks came with a 2" lift block already so you are going to need to do the work anyhow. Your rear spring mount needs to be placed about as far forward as you can get it for a better shackle angle. Most of the kits you buy give you 3.5" of lift, so a factory 4" block will just level it off. Just my .02, but lift blocks and U bolts are cheap and save you the trouble of having to do something twice. The ride quality and extra lift over stock are worth it. If you do go this route a dropped pitman arm is only 60 bucks shipped to your door on ebay, and will eliminate any bump steer.
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-Dave |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143596
Location: Lincoln Nebraska
Posts: 115
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twin traction beam...
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87 Bronco 2, 5.0/4r70w/4:1 Dana 300, D70 rear/Welded, HP KP60 front/Welded, 39.5 Iroks, 3 link with 16in. FOA coilovers up front, Hydro assist "Like a cunty little cocksnorkeling jeep nutsnuggling fanboys opinon has a grasshoppers worth of weight in the ford section." - Proeliator |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member # 152532
Location: Montgomery County, MD
Posts: 686
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I would really do the RS kit, do it right the first time, and save money/headache in the long run. I had my front end squared up and boled/welded in, in a little over an hour with the RS kit. Really consider it, but best of luck to you otherwise, keep us updated.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46175
Location: Darien Center, NY
Posts: 2,999
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I have done this conversion. No need to change the cross member. The stock track bar mount just takes a little more effort to attach.
It is really pretty easy to do. The stock spring hangers (rear of spring) line up pretty easy. Strip the coil buckets off and install the 4x4 shock mounts. Change the linkage including the pitman arm. I weld a 3/8" plate to the insides of the front of the frame where I drill holes for the shackles. This is where the factory 4x4 frame has an embossed area. One of my customers would take his 94 to the local Ford dealer for regular service, and they couldn't tell it was ever converted.
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USED and NEW 4x4 PARTS - (716) 984-8715 8-5pm EST Specializing in Axles and Transfercases |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 147254
Posts: 30
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#11 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 143867
Location: lake havasu az
Posts: 425
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heres mine
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...3&l=17cf868eae theres some more pics of the 4x4 setup mixed in here too http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...3&l=db15bc8e56
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F-350 cclb dually, 6bta, rtoo9513, divorced twin stick np205, arb 10.25 rear with 2nd gen gears, KMA front bumper, warn m15000 hydraulic winch, connex 4800, wilson 5000 antenna, wilson cell phone amp, lowrance baja 540c gps, scanner, premier power welder, onboard shower, 235/85/r16 BFG MT's |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 147254
Posts: 30
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