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Old 02-05-2011, 12:58 AM   #76 (permalink)
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My next fix was an upgrade to the steering. Hydro assist was in the works. I started with a power steering pump upgrade using a Saginaw" canned ham" unit.
I used the redneck ram upgrade a drilled out the port passage slightly bigger.
I bought a professional Kent Moore power steering tester to see what kind of pressure it put out and it read 1500psi bang on.
This is the same rating as any if the PSc or other brand " super pumps".



I put dual belt pulley on the pump for extra reliability if one were to break. I had some engine pulleys made up and balanced by my machinist to have quad pulleys running 2 belts p/s and 2 for the alternator.
I bought a 1.5 bore ram with 8" stroke online and now needed to tap my 2wd box. Nowhere online I could find this done on this box so again it was trial and error make her work.
I started with a junk box and a diagram from online and started drilling into the box to find a good place to tap.



There are definitely good and bad spots to tap as some spots are too thin
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73 F-250 44's,428,twin sticked 205,60 fr,70 rear,ARB/Detroit,crossover high steer/hydro assist,winches

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Old 02-05-2011, 01:05 AM   #77 (permalink)
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Here is where I eventually went with to tap and works great





I think the trick on drilling the side hole is to hit this above groove on sector shaft and is where I tapped..
All internals were taken apart though obviously when I drilled and it was just the outer case.
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:10 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Now I drilled, tapped the fittings but also ran small 7018 stick weld around base of fitting to be sure it didn't leak , and it didn't.
I keep 2 of these small caps in my glove box for the fittings to cap off incase I tear a hydro assist hose somehow so I can cap them and go back to regular power steering to get home.
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:17 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Now as for ram I mounted it to diff cover on a tab I built to bolt on and then welded tabs to tie rod. While I was at it I did a tie rod over flip and drilled out knuckles for tie rod holes to a bigger hole, pressed in a harder sleeve then my machinist ran a tie rod reamer trough the top.
This gained me 3"s in height.
Also I took my knuckles and gusseted all 4 corners with some plate and welded with some high nickel nirod again with the pre / post heat sand trick.
The extra force with hydro assist on knuckles could crack stock ones.




The front skid plate diff cover is a Warn 3/16 stainless one. Plenty strong.
Steering all put together I could now turn 44's on dry cement lock to lock with no issues..

So this is still my current steering up to date. My future plans are for a real high steer with the other driver side arm and tie rod over the leafs springs. This was a temporary upgrade.
Here is the setup we did on my bros truck with 49's that I will copy but instead use a PSC 1.75x 6.75 ram as the high steer you can use a shorter stroke bring above axle..

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Old 02-05-2011, 01:19 AM   #80 (permalink)
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All this work was for my next 4x4 competition that was a mad scramble to finish.
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:26 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Now for tough trucks..

YouTube - luxton tough truck 2009
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:32 AM   #82 (permalink)
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I had no idea who made that video I just found it on YouTube randomly one day.
Ended up needing to make some changes after this weekend was over. I had some issues that were a real surprise.
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:25 AM   #83 (permalink)
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In the 2 day event I broke a couple things..
You have to realize here that I'm not trying to build the best most baddest offroad truck. If I were I'd probably use a jeep with less lift, full hydro, coilovers on every corner and so on.
I run these events for fun usually being the biggest truck with biggest tires. 95% of these guys are jeeps and yotas alot with external cages and whiny little 4 cylinders buzzing away as the get high centered on a stump with 35's.
I'm trying to make a full-size as capable as possibly to have a truck I can drive on and offroad. The body was now becoming quite the eyesore on the road now though..

The first day I managed most of the first section with no spotter(mine were at home all hungover and it was 1pm) until I heard a loud pop. I went in like a mad man and tried to be a hero. I guess over the second concrete pipe I was buried in a deep hole against a stump when I was later told I probably should backed up but with no spotter I hammered on it.
I snapped a pass side stub axle. Luckily I had a spare at home .
Instead of fixing it in the pits I drove home.
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:27 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Double post
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:35 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Typical break on a stock 30 spline d60 stub.

After the fix I returned late the next day on the Sunday and this time had a spotter. We were doing good but eventually not much past the first hole break another bang!
This time it was my fancy rear cv driveshaft. It snapped the flange plate right off the cv! The video above was this run but ends before the breakage. The other carnage was it actually collapsed and flattened my rear spring pad on the axle!!! Also my 9/16 ubolts were twisted and my factory 4 " block was bent and the base that is normally flat was curved! I address this fix later on with a bulletproof setup..

Well I was done. I pulled the shaft off watched the rest of the event with some buddies then through her in front high and drive home.
Driving with front wheel drive and a Detroit up front is a bit of a challenge as well. If anyones experienced this it's sensitive to hard acceleration and deceleration . Basically the wheel pulls a little bit on either one so it's best to ease into the pedal speeding up and down.
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:53 AM   #86 (permalink)
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I did a couple more wheeling trips later in the winter getting alot of use with my winches front and rear. My rear winch was behind the bumper and in the hill climb vid I posted you can see the lisecne plate is on a hinge so it was really out of sight. The rear winch was used alot when I wheeled pulling stock trucks to where I was going.

With the battery setup but more importantly the alternator I could wheel around and winch all day long with no issues . It was so nice having a reliable rig I never really had any breakage on the trails I wheeled , it was really just the tough truck comp that was the killer.
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:00 AM   #87 (permalink)
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Well this will be round 2 of my build...

I decided to make some more changes and this one was going to take us up to date as I now took it off the road for close to a year!
Longer than I thought but I made sure to fix every detail this time around.
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:17 AM   #88 (permalink)
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When the gas prices got the highest a couple years ago everyone was selling their trucks. I picked up a couple new dents for next to nothing..

Here's a little gem I picked up for $100!
Had to run a fuel line from carb to small Jerry can where aux battery would of sat and drove it home!
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:22 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Smile

One out and stripped and another one in..
The supercab had a blown 460 and I got her for $200
Both trucks were 2wd but I was after good body parts and w/e else



This is a classic redneck backyard pic.
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:25 AM   #90 (permalink)
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One of the trucks I bought was from an ex wrestling cowboy midget guy who had pedal extensions and all. He was funny and had some good stories.. Lol
I held onto these parts for about a year as you can see my truck in the background wasn't even all that smashed up yet.
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:06 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Well this is where the original 73 body gets torn off.
First to go was the mangled box

Then the clip

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Old 02-05-2011, 12:08 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Then the cab..
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:10 PM   #93 (permalink)
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This is where I start to put these winches back to use!
Dragged the old cab to the backyard off a snatch block attatched to the gram of my bros truck..


You'll see I started a new front bumper...
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:12 PM   #94 (permalink)
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New cab winched into place
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:15 PM   #95 (permalink)
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These cab corners are good right???!



Here's the deal on this cab. When I drive it home the electrical was stock and perfect. No Mickey mousing. It needed some new floor sections and cab cornered other than that it was solid. Could of tried to find a better cab but most will have the same problem areas . Sooo...
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:18 PM   #96 (permalink)
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I cut out all the bad stuff and replaced with heavy gauge galvanized steel



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Old 02-05-2011, 12:22 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Next was cab corners.
Now the sell cheap china replacements and I've gone that route but with a body lift and wheeling offroad they collapse and tear. This is the main reason guys hate body lifts so I fixed it permanent!



3/16 plate!
Uses the original removable cover plate to acess bolts.
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:31 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Now somewhere previously I had a f350 hydroboost system installed for brakes. It was mount to fire wall with through bolts and it was a pain to bolt up even with 2 people. I made a new plate with 4 threaded holes and welded it to the firewall to easily mount it from from inside engine capartment



Hydroboost is freaking awesome not only does it stop the big truck on a dime wheeling down steep hills you can control yourself with pinpoint accuracy..
I did have to plumb an adjustable wilwood proportioning valve in the rear rear system as my 44"s would lock up even at higher speeds like 40 k's.
I dialed the pressure back until it was on border line lock up in rear.
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:34 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Just for fun I mounted the prop valve on the dash to be able to twist it fast and slide to a stop or w/e


It's on the far right..
Also I made a new dash surround with a piece of stainless steel.
Love my stainless
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:40 PM   #100 (permalink)
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The dash has LED green lights for blinkers at top and 12 voltguy.com in cab controlled aviation style front and rear winch switches which he custom engraved for free
Also my dual battery toggle switch is on there to the far right. Tach and speedo holes are cut



Got a little rowdy on the hole for wipers and headlight switches but I'll glue a rubber strip around the border to hide it..
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