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Old 05-12-2011, 03:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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460 Help

I'm in the process of taking all the EGR crap of my truck

1985 F350
Crew Cab dually
4spd
460
Carburator

Anyway what are the 2 things circled in red?

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Old 05-12-2011, 03:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The one on the right(in the pic) would be the oil pressure sending unit, and the one on the left(passenger side) looks to be either part of the egr or part of the thermactor air setup.

-Jared

*Edit*

Pretty sure that's a thermactor line now that I look a little closer.

Last edited by Baitshop; 05-12-2011 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Left: Air injection tube for the heads.
Right: Oil Pressure Sensor
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The air injection tube (thermactor) simply feeds into two holes that are in the back of the heads. Very easily removed, and you can simply plug the holes with small freeze plugs and a little JB weld.

The hole in the back of the head is drilled all the way up to the front of the cylinder head and simply injects air into the exhaust via holes in a small bump in the exhaust port. Supposedly reduces NOx, but in reality is more a waste of space than anything. Your smog pump should have originally had a rubber hose that led to the end of that bulb looking fitting on the left.
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks guys.
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If I may hijack for a quick second, on the 460 I dropped in my 75' and de-smogged, I realized now that I forgot to pull the air injection line after looking at hadefields pic.

I have the same exact thing in my truck, but now looks like I can't get to the back of the heads with the motor in the truck. Just too tight with the firewall to do anything good.

Really close to buttoning mine up and giving it a run. What can I do to that air injection tube? I think I could cut out the big fitting thing where the hose went from the air pump with the space I have, could I crimp and weld the tubes there?

Fawk all this emissions stuff. More damn hoses and vaccum fittings than my other 3 trucks put together on this one motor.
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, you can unbolt and remove it, 1 bolt per side. then cut the tube and crimp the ends and bolt it back in.
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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One bolt per side removes it like stated above, leaving it there won't hurt anything, it is just a check valve.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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so it's a bolt holding a plate with the tube right? I need to remove mine to get the manifold off. So I can get the head off. I can't even see back there. But I felt the bolt head though. No room for a ratchet and not straight for a gearwrench. My buddy has a set of these Kobalt ratchets that the wrench is outside the socket and has a lower profile than a standard ratchet set. Should be about right.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yulp...should be a 5/8...I just use an angled box end to crack em loose then thumb em out.
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Old 05-20-2011, 02:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks you Ford guys are a friendly group.

I'm going to cut off tube and weld it closed. It'll be a block off plate.

The head is off and at the machine shop.
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by f350n4.6ranger View Post
One bolt per side removes it like stated above, leaving it there won't hurt anything, it is just a check valve.
I'm a retard. The check valve will not do shit without vacuum applied right?

Guess my wiring is OK. Got it to spin off the starter finally.

What was wrong with your head hadfield?

FWIW, I knocked mine loose with the motor out, got the bolt and little clamp plate off, but the tube is rusted in place it appears. So I left it.

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Old 05-20-2011, 05:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If you're leaving the tube in place I would still ditch the check valve. They go bad all the time and cause an annoying exhaust leak under the hood. You can already see soot in the one in the picture. Leaving it open will let water and dirt in there for it to rot out even faster. Just unscrew the check valve and put a pipe plug in its place. There are 2 different sizes but the most common is 3/4" npt.
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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When I removed my air tube from the heads, I made a couple flat plates roughly the size and shape of the tubes flange. I then bought 2 new gaskets for the original set-up, and then re-used the original bolts to bolt the plates in place of the tubes. I had some 1/4" plate stock laying around, 2 gaskets and a couple minutes with a grinder and drill and it was all done for less that $5.


EDIT - I chose this route since I was unable to get the check valve out of the fitting on the tube without destroying the tube at the same time.

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Old 05-21-2011, 05:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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What was wrong with your head hadfield?
The guy I got the truck from replaced the manifold gasket on the driver side. He failed to mention in doing so he snapped off 2 bolts in the head. I then got out my angle drill and drilled the rearward one out then like an idiot managed to snap off the tap in head. He before I screwed anything else up I popped the head and took it to the pros. $30 and I'll have it back Monday. Not bad.

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When I removed my air tube from the heads, I made a couple flat plates roughly the size and shape of the tubes flange. I then bought 2 new gaskets for the original set-up, and then re-used the original bolts to bolt the plates in place of the tubes. I had some 1/4" plate stock laying around, 2 gaskets and a couple minutes with a grinder and drill and it was all done for less that $5.
There was no gasket on mine. Should I just use some gasket material I have here or go without. Doesn't look like it had one at all.
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Just unscrew the check valve and put a pipe plug in its place. There are 2 different sizes but the most common is 3/4" npt.
Thanks. At this point it's probably easiest left there until I need to do anything else to it.

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The guy I got the truck from replaced the manifold gasket on the driver side. He failed to mention in doing so he snapped off 2 bolts in the head. I then got out my angle drill and drilled the rearward one out then like an idiot managed to snap off the tap in head. He before I screwed anything else up I popped the head and took it to the pros. $30 and I'll have it back Monday. Not bad.
Damn right. Not bad at all.
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Uber clean inside.



Also I have it buttoned up. Plugs made for that stupid air thingy in the back. Since I removed all the EGR crap I only need 3 vacuum lines. Dist advance, secondary at the carb and brake booster.

One more question. Where do I hook up these (circled in red). There are 2 one on each bowl. I thought they would go to the charcoal canister but I want to make sure.

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Old 05-31-2011, 07:01 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yes, those are the bowl vents, one goes to each charcoal cannister if memory serves.
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:03 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Yes, those are the bowl vents, one goes to each charcoal cannister if memory serves.

Should it just go to atmosphere? I can't make sense of all the check valves and vacuum lines on the diagrams. Must have been designed by a mad scientist.
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:15 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I ran mine to a clip on the firewall. They are just open air past the clip.

Hope that works, figure it's a long ways to the end of the hose.....
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:01 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Just need gas in the tank and exhaust.
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:08 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Right on, making some great progress.

Welding my exhuast this weekend myself, but can't road run mine as the rad started leaking.



Figures. Get this close and now have to get that done.
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:28 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I hear yah. I got mine done and it won't start. I think it's my selector valve but I'm not sure. It was really hot when I pulled it. I'm going to try to run with a hose in a gas can to see if it was the selector was the problem.

Turns out it's hard to find an original one. Turns out I need to wire a different one it and change the fuel line I just changed.
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Hope mine works. I've spun my motor, but not actually fired it. I just replaced all the fuel lines 2 days ago.

Hope my selector valve works now too.

Hoping to fire it tomorrow if the welding gets done.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:08 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Yes, those are the bowl vents, one goes to each charcoal cannister if memory serves.
Yes. You can just put a large vacuum cap on each tube from the bowl. It will still vent from the vent tubes into the air cleaner. It basically was there to keep the evil gas fumes from escaping out of the air cleaner.
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