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#26 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46318
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 2,025
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I like the way you did the sliders. I might have to copy it.
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Project Ol' Skool '37 Chevy: /forum/ford/1049898-project-old-skool.html 1979 F-350 build: /forum/ford/855113-79-f-150-build.html |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Dec 2010
Member # 177573
Location: Knoxville, Tn.
Posts: 651
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Love it, may copy that boatside dealy-o on the ranger!
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_____________________________________________ I don't roll on Shabbas, dude. Ranger truggy, 4.0, np435/205, spooled D44/9", Duff arms & 4-link, Bilstein coilovers, full hydro steer, and 37" Iroks My build: /forum/ford/991042-rockstar-ranger-build.html |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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So here is the main hoop I bent. Once I got it done I set it in and it follows the inside pretty tight.
![]() The only problem was one leg was kicked out a little. But with a couple of ratchet straps and my ass bouncing on one side I was able to get them even. ![]() ![]() So tomorrow I will set it back and start on the halo. I have a question though. I have seen cages that have a full halo then the front uprights just go up to the halo. Then I have seen cages that the front uprights bend back along the top of the door frame and connect to the main hoop. This style just has one tube connecting the uprights above the windshield. Does anybody have a preference on which is the better design safety wise or are the two designs close enough in strength that it is just a matter of aesthetic preference?
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46318
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 2,025
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The less bends that you have to make=the stronger the cage. I'll let you do the math.
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Project Ol' Skool '37 Chevy: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1049898 1979 F-350 build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=855113 |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Point taken. Thanks.
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#31 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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So I have the halo in and have started on the front uprights. There is a compromise between what I want and what will fit.
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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So its been hard to find more than an hour or two of time to work on this thing but i do have some of the halo braces done. Hopefully I will get some more time on sat to work on it.
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#33 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46318
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 2,025
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Looks good.
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Project Ol' Skool '37 Chevy: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1049898 1979 F-350 build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=855113 |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
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That's some fine looking fab work there man! I did not have time to read anything as I have to get back to work and just scanned through the pics real fast, but please please tell me you will be leaving that thing the original lime green color! I have a 74 that same color and it's tits!
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#35 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Don't know for sure what color it will be. I dig the olive drab rigs and that is what I have planned on painting it but thats still up in the air. Whatever color the paint job will be on the cheap.
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Got the roof bracing done and started working out my gussets. I got tired for the day and quit. Still have 7 more gussets then I can drop it through the floor, weld the top, finish the sliders and start working on the seat mounts. But now its time for a beer.
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#37 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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I pulled the sliders off to finish them and dropped the cage down. Before I pulled the sliders I tacked some angle iron on the frame so when I put them back I can get them exactly where they were. I have to put holes in the back of the cab for the cage to go out and down to the frame. I'm trying to decide if I should use rubber grommets to seal between the tube and cab or if I should weld it closed. I'm not sure if it would tear because of the flex or if I will have it stiffened up enough it will be ok???
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46318
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 2,025
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If you tie the cage into the frame and not the body, they will flex independently, alot actually. I would weld the cab to the cage wherever possible.
__________________
Project Ol' Skool '37 Chevy: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1049898 1979 F-350 build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=855113 |
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#39 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Not much to report. Got one of the sliders finished up with a little paint on it.
![]() ![]() ![]() Sorry nothing more exciting
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Swag Sales
Join Date: May 2007
Member # 90594
Location: Effingham IL
Posts: 1,369
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Looks good! hard to belive I live by you for a year and didnt think to look on here! Where do you get your tube at?
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I can put your business, personal and/or club name on shirts, hats, coolers, koozies, pens, jackets and more! Just ask! Get with me on your industrial safety needs as well! Andrew Dial Jedco Sales Inc. jedcosales.com PM me or email andrewd@jedcosales.com We are family owned and in our 30th year! Big enough to get great products and prices. Small enough to know who you are! |
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#41 (permalink) | |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Quote:
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#42 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Not much done. Been busy. Got the holes cut in the cab for rear cage supports and a little paint on the cage.
![]() Still working out in my head how I want to build the outside structure of the cage. Im thinking about putting the fuel cell behind the shock hoops and building some sort of a cage around it. The crossmember closest to the rear axle will be the end of the frame. The rest of the frame behind it will get cut off. I hung one of the doors to see how much needs to be cut off for the sliders. ![]() ![]() Not too much. It will get cut and get a new sheetmetal bottom to it. Then I will add some tube to the outside of the slider once its back on. Hopefull there will be some more progress this weekend.
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Dec 2010
Member # 177573
Location: Knoxville, Tn.
Posts: 651
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I'm at the same point. I'm thinking the door is gonna be a pain in the ass.
__________________
_____________________________________________ I don't roll on Shabbas, dude. Ranger truggy, 4.0, np435/205, spooled D44/9", Duff arms & 4-link, Bilstein coilovers, full hydro steer, and 37" Iroks My build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=991042 |
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#44 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Are your sliders burned on or just tacked? It was pretty to get a cut line with the slider off and the door closed.
The door itself should be easy enough (knock on wood) just welding in a piece of sheetmetal flat in the bottom.
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Driver door cut
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Going to wait to close the bottom till I get the sliders up to make sure I cut it right.
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75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd Last edited by huff75; 10-27-2011 at 08:12 PM. |
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#47 (permalink) | |
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Wheeler
Join Date: May 2008
Member # 113532
Location: Carbondale, IL
Posts: 295
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Quote:
For every inch you shorten the truss the roll axis angle (roll oversteer) on this truck goes up by approx. one degree. General consensus seems to be that 0 or even slightly negative roll axis angle is ideal, Huff's is at 3 as it sits. If we'd made the truss shorter so as to maximize the cosmetics the roll axis angle would've been at 8 or 10. The axle would've steered like a motha' as it cycled and the truck may have seemed unstable at speed. Seems like everything is a compromise when you are building one of these things. Looking good Huff, keep after it!
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Build threads: /forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/903013-old-school-cj-7-a.html /forum/general-4x4-discussion/969689-rusty-wrangler.html http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...ue-mortar.html Events, 4x4 pics: http://www.facebook.com/PeelNOut |
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#48 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46318
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 2,025
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I am excited to see the finished doors and sliders. Keep up the good work!
__________________
Project Ol' Skool '37 Chevy: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1049898 1979 F-350 build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=855113 |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Horsepower Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173427
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 571
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Got some paint on the cage and put it back up in place.
![]() Also welded the driver side slider back on. It took a little time to get everything back exactly where it was but not too bad. ![]() Trimmed the bottom of the front finder some. I think when I trim for tire clearance I will just follow the line of the cap at the end of the slider. ![]() Ran out of daylight for the other one but when I get time I will get it on, hang the doors to see if they are going to work and get them welded up. Then its time to start the seat mounts.
__________________
75 F250 40 inch LTB'S D60 front W/spool Fordteen Bolt rear W/ Grizzly 5.38's Rear 4-Link /w 16" FOA's in progress The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd |
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#50 (permalink) | |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Dec 2010
Member # 177573
Location: Knoxville, Tn.
Posts: 651
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Quote:
__________________
_____________________________________________ I don't roll on Shabbas, dude. Ranger truggy, 4.0, np435/205, spooled D44/9", Duff arms & 4-link, Bilstein coilovers, full hydro steer, and 37" Iroks My build: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=991042 |
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