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Old 11-26-2011, 07:57 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Ok so youve done some killer body mods and one sweeeet cage! But now the real question, you put a chexy rear end in it..... (sorry ford pureist here) Please tell me your gonna stick with good ole ford power train for it? 460-Np435-np205 twin stick combo maybe?
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:17 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Ok so youve done some killer body mods and one sweeeet cage! But now the real question, you put a chexy rear end in it..... (sorry ford pureist here) Please tell me your gonna stick with good ole ford power train for it? 460-Np435-np205 twin stick combo maybe?
Didn't you know, that's a Ford 14 bolt!
No worries man. As Doc Holiday said, "My hypocrisy only goes so far." Will run a 460, C-6 and Ford 205 with a twin stick. I will only have a Ford but there are some good points to a 14 Bolt. My axle begged to be on a Ford. I did it a favor.
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:49 AM   #78 (permalink)
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So I haven't had time to get much done other than ponder my choices on gearing, tire size and driveshaft type. Driveshafts will end up being a standard non- cv 1410 in the rear and a 1350 cv front.

Gearing. I have 4.88s for the front. Don't have any for the rear yet but now I'm think I need to go deeper. Like 5.13 or 5.38. Not sure. It would be easy now and I don't want to put in the 4.88s and wish I would have gone lower. Plus as cool as a doubler would be it won't fit. I would like to go with 42s or 44s at some point and would rather my gearing be a little low for my 40s but right for when I get bigger tires.

Which brings me to tires. I like the 40 LTBs I have now but would like bigger. The LTBs have 0 miles. I don't know if I should sell em now and go bigger or just run em and get bigger later?

Damn that's the problem with a long build. Too much time to think and change your mind.
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:53 AM   #79 (permalink)
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So I haven't had time to get much done other than ponder my choices on gearing, tire size and driveshaft type. Driveshafts will end up being a standard non- cv 1410 in the rear and a 1350 cv front.

Gearing. I have 4.88s for the front. Don't have any for the rear yet but now I'm think I need to go deeper. Like 5.13 or 5.38. Not sure. It would be easy now and I don't want to put in the 4.88s and wish I would have gone lower. Plus as cool as a doubler would be it won't fit. I would like to go with 42s or 44s at some point and would rather my gearing be a little low for my 40s but right for when I get bigger tires.

Which brings me to tires. I like the 40 LTBs I have now but would like bigger. The LTBs have 0 miles. I don't know if I should sell em now and go bigger or just run em and get bigger later?

Damn that's the problem with a long build. Too much time to think and change your mind.
I know a guy with some cut 42" Iroks that would sell them for the right price. Alot of tread left on them I would say 85%. PM me if you are interested.
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:59 AM   #80 (permalink)
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I know a guy with some cut 42" Iroks that would sell them for the right price. Alot of tread left on them I would say 85%. PM me if you are interested.
Damn you swooped in quick on that one!

I'll think about it. Just worried about shipping being $$$ and killing a deal.
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:18 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Yeah shipping would pry kill ya.
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:59 AM   #82 (permalink)
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What were the tires that were originally on it? Look like ag or implement tires. Looking find some just like for our farm truck.
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:19 AM   #83 (permalink)
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What were the tires that were originally on it? Look like ag or implement tires. Looking find some just like for our farm truck.
Those were on it then I bought it. They are straight out of 1975 but have been good as rollers.
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Old 12-08-2011, 11:00 AM   #84 (permalink)
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You should make a wheeling trip to the black hills and pick up some new tires (to you) at the same time! Kill two birds with one stone!
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Old 12-08-2011, 05:37 PM   #85 (permalink)
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You should make a wheeling trip to the black hills and pick up some new tires (to you) at the same time! Kill two birds with one stone!
Don't know if it will happen any time soon but the general plan is to toss my shit on the trailer and travel here and there to go wheeling. I would like to make it to your neck of the woods.
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:49 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Pm me... I have those 42s if you want to trade.

With a big block 4.88s would be ok IMO... plus the lowest you can go with a ford 14 bolt is 5.13 IIRC so its not THAT big of a differnce so I would run the 4.88s!
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Old 12-09-2011, 05:20 AM   #87 (permalink)
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I can go to 5.38. Gimmie a call.
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The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:26 AM   #88 (permalink)
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Between the holidays and the domestic duties work is slow. I have gotten a little done and aquired some parts. I was able to find some barely used aluminum forklift propane tanks and got four of them for the propane swap. However they are still up in Chicago at the in-laws and I have to find time to go get them so I can build the mounts.

I decided to just run the 40s I have and was able to find a worn Nitto mud grappler to have as a spare for $75. Not bad.
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I ordered a steering arm from Northwest Fab along with the spring eliminator cap for the driverside. It's some nice stuff. Pretty beefy.
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I did start to mod my trans crossmember to clear my front drive shaft.
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I was going to cut out part of it then weld in some pipe split lengthwise.
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By the time I got to cutting on it, I realized it was going to easier to build one from scratch and would not be as bulky and I had some 2" .250 wall tube so I have started on it. I ordered the Ruff Stuff crossmember kit to mount it to the frame. I will post more pics when I get a little more done.
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:01 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Got some picks of the crossmember. It's not pretty but should work. I just came across then angled it in to give the DS room. There will be a belly skid plate bulit that will cover all of this up.
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:20 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Also I have been planning my exhaust. My 4-link crossmember is strong as hell but is in the way.
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I dont want to dump it under the cab and smell it all of the time. So the plan is to cut two holes in the crossmember like this. (pardon the crappy artwork)
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Once that is done I should be able to sleeve it with tube.
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Then the exhaust can pass through it.
Thats the plan anyway.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:03 AM   #91 (permalink)
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I have to ask, why 6" x 8" rectangular for a crossmember?

Sweet build man

I may have to copy your interior cage for my old 72.

Derek
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:16 AM   #92 (permalink)
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I have to ask, why 6" x 8" rectangular for a crossmember?

Sweet build man

I may have to copy your interior cage for my old 72.

Derek
Very strong, easy to build link mounts off of.
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:36 PM   #93 (permalink)
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I really don't think that dumping the exhaust under the cab will be a big deal. At least not with the propane that is.
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:34 PM   #94 (permalink)
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I really don't think that dumping the exhaust under the cab will be a big deal. At least not with the propane that is.
Could be. I will have to figure it out as I go.

Got the crossmember done. Yay.
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:39 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Well I finally got some more tube. Been out for a while and haven't had time to make the trip to St. Louis to get some. Got lucky and a friend was going and was able to pick up an order for me.
The plan is to continue the cage out of the cab and have it tie to the frame to strengthen where it was boxed for the link mounts. From there I plan to build off of that and somewhat exo the cab. From what I can tell there a number of rigs with a totally seperate inner and exo cages but I don't see any issue with tying the two together.

Or should I keep them seperate? As far as the look I will just have to see how it goes.
In any case.............Game on!
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:47 PM   #96 (permalink)
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So I'm kicking around ideas and was wondering if anybody has a home brew way to do some roll bends without having a roll bender? I don't know if I can do it. Any way I have thought of would just kink the tube and would not produce a smooth even bend. Any ideas? The area in question is the front top of the cab. I guess I could take it to the metal fab shop but its a few towns over and I really haven't worked with roll bends before. I'm not sure what measurements they would need to get it right.

I guess I would measure between the two points, then give a measurement of how far I want the center to bow out from what would have been if it was a straight tube? Does that sound right? Help me out.
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:54 PM   #97 (permalink)
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the welding is looking

wish i had a bender to do a cage while im boatsiding

how bout some updates?

edit: i want pics!
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:38 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Looking for a recommendation here. In the next week or so I will ordering a set of headers to start building an exhaust off of. I have looked at the L&L shorties and the Sanderson shorties over and over. I have searched and read about both and it seems that both are good and well liked. Both are coated and are about the same price.

Who has the L&Ls and what do they like or dislike?
Who has the Sandersons and what do they like or dislike?
Any pics would be nice. Both are a chunk of change and before I drop the coin for them I would just like to hear about both. I'm really on the fence on which way to go.

The Sandersons have a little bit bigger primary but other than that they seem close.
Help a brother decide.
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:44 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Why do you want shorties? Wouldn't a full length headers be better?
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:48 PM   #100 (permalink)
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For a chassis exit they hang down too low and a fenderwell exit won't work for my setup. A full length would be great but it comes down to fitment issues.
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