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Old 04-25-2012, 12:29 PM   #151 (permalink)
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The sliders look really good, I might have to borrow that design when I build some for my truck.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:20 PM   #152 (permalink)
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The sliders look really good, I might have to borrow that design when I build some for my truck.
Thanks!
Got the tank brackets today. I put them on a couple of tanks and set them up to just get an idea of how I am going to mount them. So far it looks like the best way will be just far enough away from the cab to get the latch open with the front one and then the second one will have the latches facing back so the tanks can be butted up as close to each other as possible.


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The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:32 PM   #153 (permalink)
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I would mount them vertical if I were you. Run a couple tubes horizontally and build some tabs to mount the brackets. You will have more "bed" space. You can never have enough tools and beer...
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:51 PM   #154 (permalink)
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I will set them up and see what it looks like. I kinda had in mind having them down like that then over them having a small platform using an expanded metal floor for tools, spare parts or a cooler.
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:52 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Very nice - any chance you could post some more detailed pictures of what you did with the front kickers in the cab? We are bending up a cage in a very similar truck and I'm curious on how you did it. The truck will eventually get propane, so it will probably look similar in that regards as well
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:58 PM   #156 (permalink)
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That shit looks !
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:57 AM   #157 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Very nice - any chance you could post some more detailed pictures of what you did with the front kickers in the cab? We are bending up a cage in a very similar truck and I'm curious on how you did it. The truck will eventually get propane, so it will probably look similar in that regards as well
I'm guessing these are what your wanting



The thing with the cage on this truck is that the frame is so narrow. Around 34 inches. That is the reason for punching through the frame for the 4-link. Honestly it was on the verge of just getting the frame cut off and backhalved in the rear. Anyways the entire cage is based on the arms for the sliders. It will be tied directly to the frame in the rear but in the cab it was too narrow to do so.

Edit: I still have to put in the dash bar and the verticle risers to the halo. And once the exhaust and other odds and ends are done I will see how feasible it is to run some tube through the firewall to the front of the frame.
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The Making of a Turd: Huff's Green Turd

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Old 05-03-2012, 02:03 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Got to work on the mount for the tanks today. I'm using 1 3/4 square tube. Probably overkill but I had it and it was a good size for the foot of the tank brackets.


I decided to stick with the side mounting setup. The frame is big enough to allow a future storage thingy later.


Measured and got my spacing right. The setup is what killed the most time.



Got the feet on and its done. Just didnt have time to weld it to the frame.

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Old 05-06-2012, 09:11 AM   #159 (permalink)
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Got it on the frame.




Waiting for the paint to dry.
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:59 PM   #160 (permalink)
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Got started on the bedsides.


Once it was off I gutted the inside.


Got it hung. The rear axle was moved forward a foot so I had to section the bedside and move the wheel well forward.



Got it cut and welded.




Still have to work on the gap from cab then section behind the wheel.

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Old 05-10-2012, 04:39 PM   #161 (permalink)
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wow that chaged the look of the truck, looks tits now man
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I love old trucks. everything is made of mo'fuckin' steel. Need to move some shit cause you made it more awesome? NBD. drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back.
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:34 PM   #162 (permalink)
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wow that chaged the look of the truck, looks tits now man
as if it didnt before?!

i liked it before, but now it's really
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:37 AM   #163 (permalink)
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I will set them up and see what it looks like. I kinda had in mind having them down like that then over them having a small platform using an expanded metal floor for tools, spare parts or a cooler.
On my jeep, or what was left of it, I had mine mounted vertical and it would only drain half the tank then they would freeze up. They would idle fine but if you got into it it would cut out and miss. I heard from a guy at the bad lands that it is better to lay them on the side. Just make sure you put the hole in the handle at the bottom becuase that is where the pickup tube is . Truck is looking sexy BTW

Good luck feeding a big block. I would go through 3 tanks in 4 hours of light wheeling with a big block.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:57 AM   #164 (permalink)
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First time seeing this build. (I know Where the fuck have i been right??) I just read through most of it, and drooled over all the pictures. What an awesome rig man. I mean, I love my 67-72 bowties, but other than those, this body style is the best looking truck out there. This is probably one of my new favorite builds. Great job so far. Looking forward to progress
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:33 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Thanks for the props guys! The sheetmetal work blows but I think makes the truck look a lot better. I will have quite a bit of work in them when they are done. Too bad they will get smashed.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:47 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Looks good
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Old 05-12-2012, 05:12 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Just had a little time today so all I really got done was to measure for my next section behind the wheel well. I was trying to lay out my cut lines but damn its hard to get a perfect straight line with all the curves of the body lines. I know where the cut needs to be but the front of the bedside is not straight so I cant measure off of it. And the same problem with the rear. The front splice wasnt bad because the bottom of the panel is even but the rear of the bedside the bottom angles up from front to rear. I guess I could measure from the previous splice seam and see how it ends up.

What I have been doing is marking the bottom of the panel. Then taking a plumb line from the top and trying to get a line that way but the panel has enough curve to it that it dosent work that well. I will keep at it but If anybody smarter has a better idea of how to reference the top and bottom of my line help me out.
Edit: I guess I could reference off of the straight body line by the side marker light. Measure straight down in a couple of places to get a straight horizontal line then use a square.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:16 PM   #168 (permalink)
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Bed sides turned the whole look around. Looks killer dude
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:23 PM   #169 (permalink)
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You don't need to reference off of anything. Just run a tape line down, then measure _ _" from the edge of the tape all the way down, in about 3" intervals, and then play connect the dots. You'll have it match up all the way down that way. But man that's looking nice!
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:04 PM   #170 (permalink)
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You don't need to reference off of anything. Just run a tape line down, then measure _ _" from the edge of the tape all the way down, in about 3" intervals, and then play connect the dots. You'll have it match up all the way down that way. But man that's looking nice!
This is basically what I do. Except I make the first cut, then measure and make the second line
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:21 PM   #171 (permalink)
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You don't need to reference off of anything. Just run a tape line down, then measure _ _" from the edge of the tape all the way down, in about 3" intervals, and then play connect the dots. You'll have it match up all the way down that way. But man that's looking nice!
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This is basically what I do. Except I make the first cut, then measure and make the second line
Hadn't really thought of that but it makes sense. Even if the first line or cut isn't perfect, the second line will match the imperfections and thus still mate up well. Thanks guys!
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:42 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Don't wanna be a prick or anything, but it would have been less work if you cut the section out where the wheel arch was, and splice it to the length you want then cut a new wheel arch where you needed it. That way you only have 1 splice, and you put the wheel arch in fresh metal.


Thats what we did when we redid the bed a few years ago. My wheel arches were fubared anyways.



Cool ride BTW. I'm digging the 4 link.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:57 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Nah, not being a prick. Just throwing out another idea. I guess that would work too. Just didnt think of it. I was just taking it one step at a time. I got the basic shape of the wheel opening I wanted just based off of the factory one and just moved it forward.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:41 PM   #174 (permalink)
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I used the inside of the cutout flares as a mold to cut the wheel arch cause i was planning to make them out of fiberglass and bolting them on. The fiberglass flares really gave the bedsides some good Ństrength. They get floppy when you cut the inner fenders out.

I've even leaned them on hill sides, and managed to crack them with out denting the sheetmetal.



Without the flares i couldn't see out the mirrors after trail rides.
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:36 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Got the back sectioned. Now I'm just working on actual mounts for the side.



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