Huff's Green Turd

[huff75]

Originally Posted by AllGoNoShow

I bet when you get it painted it will look much better. It just looks "out of place" right now. The design looks strong, just looks a little out of place right now. Keep up the good work! Looks like you will be wheeling soon.

Got some paint on it for ya.

[5BrothersFabrication]

That's insane, almost makes no sense.... But I love it! I like lotsa toob!

[Josh40601]

Looks great!

[huff75]

Got back home and now its on to the driveline. Pulled the engine, trans and transfer case. The engine ran good before but has sitting for a long time. Plan on some new gaskets and water pump. I have a new oil pan and pickup and will add a oil pump. While the pan is off I will check the rod and main bearings and hopefully all is good. In the next day or two I will crack open the trans and see if its rebuildable. I just snagged it for mockup and I think it had water in it. I think I can get by with just some gaskets and seals for the transfer case and will twin stick it. Kinda feel like I'm going backwards but pulling it apart will be nice to get the steering knocked out.

[bigredkacy]

You will love the propane!! I have 2 mixers on the 460 and it runs amazing!

[huff75]

What did you use to mount the mixers? The dual to single adapter or a dual 4 barrel intake?

[FordX4-offroad]

1 year 1 month and 10 days ago you posted this piece on here.
you havin wheelin' withdrawals yet?
you're a month and 10 days over due beeotch.

hurry

[66CC]

Originally Posted by FordX4-offroad

1 year 1 month and 10 days ago you posted this piece on here.
you havin wheelin' withdrawals yet?
you're a month and 10 days over due beeotch.

hurry

Hey, shouldn't you be out in the garage workin on your wreck?
Instead of reading and posting on forums.

[bigredkacy]

Originally Posted by huff75

What did you use to mount the mixers? The dual to single adapter or a dual 4 barrel intake?

I used dual plate to one throttle plate.
Easy to setup.


I have a spare one in my box if you are interested.

I'm building a 521, that's why I went with the dual mixers, dual vaporizers
, single lockoff
Here us my setup,

[huff75]

Originally Posted by FordX4-offroad

1 year 1 month and 10 days ago you posted this piece on here.
you havin wheelin' withdrawals yet? Yes I am.
you're a month and 10 days over due beeotch.



hurry Soon grasshopper, soon.

Originally Posted by 66CC

Hey, shouldn't you be out in the garage workin on your wreck?
Instead of reading and posting on forums.

Hahahaha burn!

Originally Posted by bigredkacy

I used dual plate to one throttle plate.
Easy to setup.


I have a spare one in my box if you are interested.

I'm building a 521, that's why I went with the dual mixers, dual vaporizers
, single lockoff
Here us my setup,

I'm going to run the single for now but am also building a 521 in a year or so. Where do you get your parts, mixers etc?

[huff75]

Got a little dirty today and started working on the engine. I took off the front accessories and did a little scraping. I then plugged up the intake and exhaust ports, rolled it outside and coated it with degreaser and hit it with the pressure washer.



It cleaned up pretty good. I'll hit it with the wire wheel and throw a little paint on it. I figured when I change the water pump I will check the timing chain for slack and see if its the stock one.

I also threw the transmission on the bench and pulled the pan. As I thought there was some rust but not near as much as I was thinking there would be. The input shaft is shot due to rust as is the front pump but the rest may be salvageable. I will have to tear it down further to see. It just comes down to how many parts that are normally rebuildable I have to replace.

[huff75]

Started pulling apart the engine to check it out and freshen it up a bit. Found that it has the 8* degree smogger timing set and a lot of slack in the chain so that will be replaced with a straight up double roller set.



With the propane there is no need for the fuel pump.



The bottom end looked pretty good with no sludge and everything seemed pretty tight.



Pulled some rod caps though and it looks like they were not too bad but on a bearing wear chart on the Clevite website it looks like I had dirt in the oil so new bearings are in order.



Other than that the plan is to get a cam ground by Scotty at Reincarnation automotive and a re-curved distributer from him. He said that with the propane I need more compression than what the D3 heads have. He said that I could have them milled about .035 to .040 and it would help but I do have a set of C9's sitting around and the local shop said that they could freshen them up for around $150 so thats the plan for now.

[huff75]

Got the heads off today. Pulled the intake and noticed that the front driver side bolt hole was cracked. Dont know if I can get it welded up or if its even worth it. may just run it that way.



This engine has been gon through by somebody before. One of the rocker arms had a bolt that was different from the others and the jerk that did it rounded off the head. So I covered the rest of the engine and welded a punch to it and got it out that way.




Seems like stock pistons (Not sure on dish size) but I thought that they were normally in the bore slightly. So I guess the block had been decked to 0?




Also I was able to get a pitman arm and at full right turn it looked like it would be close to hitting the crosmember with the nut of the tie rod end. So I cut it out and plated it back in with 3/16. Not pretty but it will work.






Starting to get in a hurry. Trying to make a late October Harlan trip!

[Josh40601]

Originally Posted by huff75

Got the heads off today. Pulled the intake and noticed that the front driver side bolt hole was cracked. Dont know if I can get it welded up or if its even worth it. may just run it that way.



This engine has been gon through by somebody before. One of the rocker arms had a bolt that was different from the others and the jerk that did it rounded off the head. So I covered the rest of the engine and welded a punch to it and got it out that way.




Seems like stock pistons (Not sure on dish size) but I thought that they were normally in the bore slightly. So I guess the block had been decked to 0?




Also I was able to get a pitman arm and at full right turn it looked like it would be close to hitting the crosmember with the nut of the tie rod end. So I cut it out and plated it back in with 3/16. Not pretty but it will work.






Starting to get in a hurry. Trying to make a late October Harlan trip!

Who you going to Harlan with?? Couple Ranger dudes are meeting down there at the end of October.

[5BrothersFabrication]

Fawl crawl maybe?

[huff75]

Originally Posted by Josh40601

Who you going to Harlan with?? Couple Ranger dudes are meeting down there at the end of October.

A group of local guys. Some of em are in my friends on here. This provided I can get this thing running.

Originally Posted by 5BrothersFabrication

Fawl crawl maybe?

Yep.

[Josh40601]

26-27?

[huff75]

Originally Posted by Josh40601

26-27?

Weekend of the 20-21

[SAY789]

Damn dude that sucks about the cracked intake. I got an extra Weiand if you interested for cheap.

[huff75]

Originally Posted by SAY789

Damn dude that sucks about the cracked intake. I got an extra Weiand if you interested for cheap.

I may take ya up on that. Let me inspect mine to see if its cracked anywhere else. I may still run it. I cant weld aluminum and I really dont know if cast aluminum can be welded up fixed. Was thinking about just using a washer but It might still make the bolt sit funny and mess up the seal.

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Originally Posted by huff75

I may take ya up on that. Let me inspect mine to see if its cracked anywhere else. I may still run it. I cant weld aluminum and I really dont know if cast aluminum can be welded up fixed. Was thinking about just using a washer but It might still make the bolt sit funny and mess up the seal.

Any machine shop worth it's salt should be able to fix that intake, it ought to be cheaper than a new used one shipped too. If they want an arm and a leg for it though I'd take the wieland since they make good shit in 460 flavor.

[huff75]

Originally Posted by br0nc0xrapt0r

Any machine shop worth it's salt should be able to fix that intake, it ought to be cheaper than a new used one shipped too. If they want an arm and a leg for it though I'd take the wieland since they make good shit in 460 flavor.

I am going to see if my buddy can help me fix it. He has a spool gun for his welder.

[huff75]

I have been working on getting my engine parts ordered. In the meantime I have been knocking out other odds and ends. I needed a steering shaft because the stock one was too long.



I found this steering U-joint on E-bay for $35 shipped. It's 3/4 36 spline and 3/4 smooth on the other side. I cut down the shaft and welded the joint on the end. seems to work.



I also cut the front axle for the U-bolt flip. Now its out to get rebuilt with the spool.



Now the front is torn down, it will get painted and all the bolts tightened up.



Got a question I have a feeling the front springs are going to be stiff as hell. I'm thinking about going ahead and pulling a leaf or two out while its apart and easy in hopes it will flex a little. Should I or should I wait? Which leaf to pull? Seems like most say start at the bottom. Seems to me that the bottom leaf is to short to help much anyway. I was thinking of pulling the second from the bottom. Should I just pull one? The springs are Skyjacker. They are a 4 inch lift for the Highboy. 6 inch for the Lowboys.

[AllGoNoShow]

Originally Posted by huff75

I have been working on getting my engine parts ordered. In the meantime I have been knocking out other odds and ends. I needed a steering shaft because the stock one was too long.

Attachment 690851

I found this steering U-joint on E-bay for $35 shipped. It's 3/4 36 spline and 3/4 smooth on the other side. I cut down the shaft and welded the joint on the end. seems to work.

Attachment 690856

I also cut the front axle for the U-bolt flip. Now its out to get rebuilt with the spool.

Attachment 690852

Now the front is torn down, it will get painted and all the bolts tightened up.

Attachment 690853

Got a question I have a feeling the front springs are going to be stiff as hell. I'm thinking about going ahead and pulling a leaf or two out while its apart and easy in hopes it will flex a little. Should I or should I wait? Which leaf to pull? Seems like most say start at the bottom. Seems to me that the bottom leaf is to short to help much anyway. I was thinking of pulling the second from the bottom. Should I just pull one? The springs are Skyjacker. They are a 4 inch lift for the Highboy. 6 inch for the Lowboys.

Attachment 690854

Don't pull any of them, those are the exact same skyjacker springs that I have. They will work well just the way they are. I have the very bottome leaf removed, but I may put it back in. Pulling leafs will mostly just weaken the pack, the "flex" has a lot to do with the spring rate, not the amount of leafs the pack has. Yes, removing leafs will affect the spring rate (lower it), but then put added stress on the other leafs. Those little short leafs add the most support when the spring pack is almost completely compressed.

Edit: One thing you may want to look into is moving you shackle mount forward so that you could get a better angle. You will have a much better idea how they will work once you get all the weight on the front and test it out a little.

[ironfist]

Those blocks on their sides isn't likely the best option.