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Old 06-20-2011, 10:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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swap dana 60 reverse-cut under a 1966 Bronco

I just bought a 1966 Bronco with no drivetrain, engine or electrical. I am firmly set on running a corprate 14-bolt in the back and a dana 60 reverse-cut high pinion in the front. What I need help with is where to weld the wedges and how much to chop off the passenger side tube. I read that it was 6" but I am not sure. I have a chop-saw. I figured I would chop the passenger tube down to specification, weld the inner knuckle on and buy a custom inner-right axle shaft. I am planning on buying some stock dana 70 35 spline outter shafts. Do I need to pre-heat the inner-knuckles in an oven in ordered for the iron to accept a weld? I want to run 8 on 6.5" lugs. This is going to be a heavy duty Bronco.
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Or should I just buy some steel inner knuckles?
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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There are multiple ways to shorten an axle - searching on here would bring up tons of results. I've always liked the ideal of cutting it square and putting a sleeve inside the tubing - it could be welded up and flapped nice so it looked factory.

As for C-wedges, put the axle under the truck and decide where they are going to go and what angle you want them. You can loosely bolt things together under the truck and set your pinion angle, tack, and then burn them in.

1 Ton Bronco's are sweet

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Old 06-20-2011, 03:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I found references to taking 4" off the long side and 0 off the short side or to take 5.5" off the long side and 1.5" off the short side. I can set the housing up on a chop-saw to make a good cut but I am confused as how much to take off the passenger side only to braing my tires back into the wheel wells. Axle wedges seem difficult compared to leaf springs. If I combined two YJ-Jeep front leaf spring packs would it hold the weight of the Bronco?
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What front 60 are you using, 79 KPHP, 87-91 KPHP, or 92-96 BJHP?

If you are going to take the inner C's off, and do all that work, why not look into getting a bare Hi 9 housing or something, and just building it?

As far as locating your axle and knowing how much to cut off. what you need to do is first measure your frame width, Then figure out how far outside your frame your springs are going to sit. I recommend using coil springs, or coil overs. realize your spring pad needs to be directly in the center of your driver side axle tube.

Lets say your frame is 36" wide, outside edge to outside edge. Lets say the edge of your coil spring is 1.5" from the outside edge of your frame rail, and the springs are 3" diameter. So the center of your coil spring pad would be 3" from your outside edge (1.5"+1.5"=3"). So your spring pads would need to be 36" +3" +3", or 42" apart, center to center. Then you would need the same length of axle tube beyond that 42" that the driver side has to support the inner C and give the same amount of backspacing and such.

This is all hypothetical, but you get the idea hopefully. Basically, it all goes off of where your driver side spring mounts, because it pretty much HAS to sit in one specific spot, due to space constraints.

Do note that if you haven't got an axle yet, the 79 axle is most desirable. Also realize that you could get any Ford Dana 60 front axle, and replace the inner C's with Dedenbear C's and knuckles. They are extremely strong.

The measuring can be tricky. Having a 60" vernier caliper with 8 or 12" jaws would be the proper tool to use. Good luck finding one that is reasonably priced. A 60" carpenter's square could work, but finding one that long could be tricky as well. No. The best thing to do is make a measuring device using 1"x1" OD square tubing that is 1/8" thick and 60" long. Take 2 more 2" sections of 1"x1" ID 1/8th wall, so you can slide them over the 1"x1" OD. Then you can weld a 12" length of 1"x1" od to the sliders. You then drill and tap the sliders for 5/16" coarse thread, so you can tighten them up and hold the sliders in place. The key to getting accurate measurements off the tool is keeping everything square when you cut and weld. Use a jig consisting of 2 50" sections of 1"x1" set one at the top, and one at the bottom of your 12" legs. Tack them on, then weld the legs to the sliders. Grind the tacks off the jigs, and you got a fairly accurate tool to measure with. If you wanted it super duper accurate, you could get two 3" pieces of round stock turned to a point on a lathe. slide them into the square tube, and weld them into place. to get the measurement off the tool, you can use a regular old measuring tape. Lock the legs down with the bolts, and measure the points, or measure outside edge to outside edge, and subtract 1".
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My Bronco's frame is 29.5" wide. My dad's '00 F-350 4x4 is 37.5" wide. That is 8". I thought I could just put my front end, when I get it, on a chop saw and chop 8" off the passenger side tube. Then I would weld the inner-c back on and re-place the right-inner axle-shaft wiht one that is 8" shorter.

Ok so don't get angry with me. I went to the local truck yard this evening. I searched high and low and found many dana 60s and 44s for dodge and chevys. I found a complete, minus the bed, 1971 F-100 4X4. It had a 9" rear and dana 44 high pinion front. It had a 4.6L modular and overdrive manual transmission swaped in. I bought the complete front end disc-brake to disc brake and hub to hub for $350. It includes the axle wedges so I could use it with stock radius arms.

Ok so I recall reading that one is to chop 6 or 8" off the passenger tube and get an early Bronco right-inner axle-shaft. But early Broncos used little u-joints so that won't work. I think I can cut 8" off the passenger tube and only have to replace the right-inner axle-shaft. Then I will have to re-weld the right inner-c and right radius-arm wedge.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Running em full width out of the question?
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Old 06-20-2011, 09:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Running em full width out of the question?
Full width is an option. There is a Ranger build on here that goes into great detail on making a Dana 44 narrower. I would like to see pictures of the Dana 44 you purchased.
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I will take some pictures of it tomoro when I get it. I want my tires to fit into the fenders. West Coast Broncos sells fiberglass flared fenders for $500. I figured I could cut my right tube, re-weld the right inner-c and radius-arm wedge and re-assemble it with a custom length Moser right-inner axle shaft for $200. and some personal labor.

frdtrkguy, the YJ was my favorite suspension setup. I understand it did not flex very well stock but you can get/build a leaf pack to do what you want it to. The early Bronco was always my favorite car body design.

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Old 06-20-2011, 11:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I will take some pictures of it tomoro when I get it. I want my tires to fit into the fenders. West Coast Broncos sells fiberglass flared fenders for $500. I figured I could cut my right tube, re-weld the right inner-c and radius-arm wedge and re-assemble it with a custom length Moser right-inner axle shaft for $200. and some personal labor.
The early Bronco was always my favorite car body design.
Sounds like a plan. I like leaf springs on heavy duty trucks. 1 tons and bigger. For half tons and smaller, I really like long radius arms, or a 4 link setup where applicable.

I'm with you on that. I love the EB. I think an EB on tons with RAs would be tits.
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Old 06-21-2011, 07:44 AM   #11 (permalink)
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wcb has new wedges also radius arms setup for full width axles with stock set up on frame. In my honest opinion run full width and put wcb fenders on it and you cant go wrong . their fenders will cover fullwidth. thats what they r designed for. Robert E.
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If you want narrow, I'd personally make it narrow with wheel backspacing.
A full witdh 60 with H1 wheels is almost stock witch.
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If you want narrow, I'd personally make it narrow with wheel backspacing.
A full witdh 60 with H1 wheels is almost stock witch.
x2
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm with you on that. I love the EB. I think an EB on tons with RAs would be tits.
Me too, so I built one
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Me too, so I built one
Don't you have some snow to shovel, or some ice fishing to do or something?
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:17 AM   #16 (permalink)
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frdtrkguy, the YJ was my favorite suspension setup. I understand it did not flex very well stock but you can get/build a leaf pack to do what you want it to. The early Bronco was always my favorite car body design.


EB,s are my favorite lookin built rigs too. Turns out yj's are alot cheaper and easier to find
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:20 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Don't you have some snow to shovel, or some ice fishing to do or something?
We have summer too! Already hit triple digits here... I say, bring on the snow!
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:39 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have some pictures but how do I upload them from my computer to the forum?
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:37 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:44 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:45 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:50 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:52 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I have a nice album on photo bucket titled "360 FE" not "360 fe". I am trying to upload but I am having no luck. I will try again later.
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:37 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Upload your pics on Photobucket and use the links
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