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Old 10-07-2011, 06:04 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Is there a pinion support solution figured out for those running flipped housings for mid engine??? Similar to the Currie supports? Or is that gonna be a home fabbed thing only???
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:52 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Kraqa View Post
can someone post links to where to get info on the 10" drop outs?
Page 32 of the Strange Online Catalog in an Ultra Case.
www.strangeengineering.net
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Old 10-07-2011, 02:17 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by russellmn View Post
Is there a pinion support solution figured out for those running flipped housings for mid engine??? Similar to the Currie supports? Or is that gonna be a home fabbed thing only???
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Originally Posted by BigWoodyWag View Post
Page 32 of the Strange Online Catalog in an Ultra Case.
www.strangeengineering.net
combining these 2 issues:

u cant use the inverted currie pinion support with the aluminum strange ultra case case you?
http://www.strangeengineering.net/index.html
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Old 10-07-2011, 02:40 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by laproscopic View Post
combining these 2 issues:

u cant use the inverted currie pinion support with the aluminum strange ultra case case you?
http://www.strangeengineering.net/index.html
The original question wasnt implied midengine and flipped 3rds. But I'm cool with this discussion.

I have talked with Strange a bit about their Ultras and upside down apps. They dont condone or give advice on doing it, they said we cant give advice on using this for something other than it was designed. They did say their Ultra pinion support is far superior in size to the Currie standard 9" pinion. But will it hold up to upside down operation, etc. All they could say is that "we have customers that overfill their cases, but you know they will then leak more"

So hell if I know. If you could ensure the oiling on the snout of an Ultra ran upsidedown, WINNING!!!!
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:08 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Lot's of good info here. Some wives tales. I'll try and explain a bit.

Q. Why are they called 10" gears when they are about 9.46" (varies a bit by ratio)?
A. First, I wish they were not. It will be very confusing when we produce our 10" gear that measures 10". The first versions were made by US Gear for drag racing. Ring gears are best made from forgings, not billet, so to order a dozen or so forgings would be crazy expensive and the wait would be forever. So US took a 10" gear forging they already had for a different application, and made the gear set. The first were 10" - subsequently they were turned down to fit common modified drop-outs and housings. Eventually, US Gear, Motive Gear and others just used a 9.46" forging - but the name was stuck.... For now were stuck with it - 10" gears.

Q. 14 Bolt gear strength vs. these 10" racing gears - which is stronger?
A. Simple answer is 10" gears by a good margin. This is due to several factors:

Gear engineering - a)the hypoid design of the "Ford style" gear is stronger than the GM 14 bolt.

b)The ring gear to carrier bearing distance/offset. The 14 bolt has a much larger distance from the gear engagement to the load side carrier bearing vs. the "Ford style". This can be minimized by the massive differential cap trussing, but the advantage is "Ford style".

Material: 9310 or European version properly heat treated is 35-45% stronger on core strength than 8620 material 14 bolt gears are currently made from. Despite the larger diameter of the 14B, today the gears are not as strong.

Now, let's look at real world info: The 14B is a very strong OE gear, and with enough material in the drop-out helping it can work very well in a racing application. It will however never be "light". It has the advantage regarding ARB's. It is a cheaper gear set by far - but the balance of components are not cheap by any means.

The 10" gear has been proven for over 6 years in NHRA, Trophy Trucks, PRO 2, PRO 4 and more. Shannon Campbell, Rob MacCachren, RJ, Cameron Steele, Bryce Menzies, Johnny Greaves, Rob Naughton, Brian Deegan, Jeremy McGrath, Pistol Pete, Greg Adler, Steve Barlow, and more use our 10" gears successfully. (Sorry, looks like I dropped something there...)

I do not recommend the aluminum cases. The steel case increases gear life by about 50% - that could be difference between finishing or not. Also, I don't like the steel case with aluminum caps - get the all steel case and caps from Gearworks or Jayson at Tubeworks.

If it were me, and I've been asked by several KOH racers, I'd go 10" unless the ARB issue was mission critical.

I've got more. Stop by at Off Road Expo and ask - I'll be happy to answer.

Bring beer if it's a lot of questions....

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Old 10-07-2011, 06:53 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JIMMYS 4X4 View Post
Here is the 40 spline Drive Plates Laid over the 35 Spline plate..



G]
I just noticed something,

Are the spidertrax drive plates hub centric ?

If so this is a huge improvement and advantage. I run the cone hubs and I wish the drive plates on mine were hub centric. I have been talking with sandy about revamping mine to be hub centric. Cudos to Tom if these are
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:53 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Mine are a previous version but they do have a lip on them that I would assume centers inside the hub.
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:02 PM   #58 (permalink)
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New "Pro Series" Hubs are Hub Centric and now have 11/16 shanks on wheel studs..

I placed the wheel hub and Drive plate on our new ATX Race wheels that we have driven on, fit like a glove smooth,,, we did have to take a 11/16 drill through the lug stud holes, but the hub was a perfect fit..

Here is a new Allied, still need to drill Lug holes, these wheels are cut for Flat lug nuts, bore was snug,, but went on with little fuss, Just wiggle and push,, no hammers or kicking,, lol,,, a few times on and off and driven on once they will be perfect..




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Old 10-08-2011, 02:24 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russellmn View Post
Is there a pinion support solution figured out for those running flipped housings for mid engine??? Similar to the Currie supports? Or is that gonna be a home fabbed thing only???
We have 4 Units here for Rear Engine cars, Gear works has a Pinion support for the Rear/Mid Engine Apps, Proper Oiling and Larger Front bearing..





This unit Is 36 Spline, Used Mostly in Trophy Truck App's...
Shafts are 300M and Gunned Drilled, shot pinged inside and outside.
Full C-molly caps with studs, 4" Bearing, Most 9" Drop out/third housings are for a 3.25 Bearing





here is 3.25 Bearing and steel cap



40 spline shaft stuffed in 36 spline spool..



Here is the Rugular steel cap and
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:46 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Price to 55707??? That's fawking pimp!!!
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:38 AM   #61 (permalink)
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what's the minor diameter of the big 36 spline stuff?
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:59 AM   #62 (permalink)
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what's the minor diameter of the big 36 spline stuff?
2-3/16" (2.375") i do believe
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:12 PM   #63 (permalink)
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2.375 is 2 3/8. 2 3/16 would be 2.187
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:49 PM   #64 (permalink)
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what's the minor diameter of the big 36 spline stuff?
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Originally Posted by rockyota83 View Post
2-3/16" (2.375") i do believe

The official SAE specs for the 36 spline Trophy Truck shaft is:

2.312" major dia.
2.108" minor dia.
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:11 PM   #65 (permalink)
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very cool stuff.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:03 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Randy,

I will give you a call on Monday.

Get your good old boy price list out
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:18 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Racing Ron View Post
Lot's of good info here. Some wives tales. I'll try and explain a bit.

Q. Why are they called 10" gears when they are about 9.46" (varies a bit by ratio)?
A. First, I wish they were not. It will be very confusing when we produce our 10" gear that measures 10". The first versions were made by US Gear for drag racing. Ring gears are best made from forgings, not billet, so to order a dozen or so forgings would be crazy expensive and the wait would be forever. So US took a 10" gear forging they already had for a different application, and made the gear set. The first were 10" - subsequently they were turned down to fit common modified drop-outs and housings. Eventually, US Gear, Motive Gear and others just used a 9.46" forging - but the name was stuck.... For now were stuck with it - 10" gears.

Q. 14 Bolt gear strength vs. these 10" racing gears - which is stronger?
A. Simple answer is 10" gears by a good margin. This is due to several factors:

Gear engineering - a)the hypoid design of the "Ford style" gear is stronger than the GM 14 bolt.

b)The ring gear to carrier bearing distance/offset. The 14 bolt has a much larger distance from the gear engagement to the load side carrier bearing vs. the "Ford style". This can be minimized by the massive differential cap trussing, but the advantage is "Ford style".

Material: 9310 or European version properly heat treated is 35-45% stronger on core strength than 8620 material 14 bolt gears are currently made from. Despite the larger diameter of the 14B, today the gears are not as strong.

Now, let's look at real world info: The 14B is a very strong OE gear, and with enough material in the drop-out helping it can work very well in a racing application. It will however never be "light". It has the advantage regarding ARB's. It is a cheaper gear set by far - but the balance of components are not cheap by any means.

The 10" gear has been proven for over 6 years in NHRA, Trophy Trucks, PRO 2, PRO 4 and more. Shannon Campbell, Rob MacCachren, RJ, Cameron Steele, Bryce Menzies, Johnny Greaves, Rob Naughton, Brian Deegan, Jeremy McGrath, Pistol Pete, Greg Adler, Steve Barlow, and more use our 10" gears successfully. (Sorry, looks like I dropped something there...)

I do not recommend the aluminum cases. The steel case increases gear life by about 50% - that could be difference between finishing or not. Also, I don't like the steel case with aluminum caps - get the all steel case and caps from Gearworks or Jayson at Tubeworks.

If it were me, and I've been asked by several KOH racers, I'd go 10" unless the ARB issue was mission critical.

I've got more. Stop by at Off Road Expo and ask - I'll be happy to answer.

Bring beer if it's a lot of questions....

Ron
I would like to add to your points of the ford style and the 10" R&P being stronger, as i have found over building a couple 3rd members for our truck that all of the 10 " R&P's no matter if they are Gearworks,or motive gear that they are polished so that they mesh together smoothly and the wear factor on them is smaller which means less metal shaving rolling around in the bearings and or shavings being caught in the meshing process
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:25 PM   #68 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=jpizol;14239578]I would like to add to your points of the ford style and the 10" R&P being stronger, as i have found over building a couple 3rd members for our truck that all of the 10 " R&P's no matter if they are Gearworks,or motive gear that they are polished so that they mesh together smoothly and the wear factor on them is smaller which means less metal shaving rolling around in the bearings and or shavings being caught in the meshing process along with the fact that those gear sets are over $3500 a set from gearworks or motive gear
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:55 PM   #69 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=jpizol;14239600]
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Originally Posted by jpizol View Post
along with the fact that those gear sets are over $3500 a set from gearworks or motive gear
For a whole set up up 3rd, not just the gears. The gears run between 600 and 1000. Pretty comparible to a Mega 9 or Super 14.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:24 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I know it sounds outrageous for a single 3rd from tube works, but just call and talk to someone there about the product and what goes into it, and you will immediately understand its worth every penny. They are definitely not making a ton of money on those thirds; race spec parts are just in a different league cost wise, for everyone, including the manufacturer.

The tube works case is ground up built around the 10" ring gear, every part is custom. If you call currie and get a quote on one of there 10" thirds, which is mainly, not entirely, modified 9" stuff, it makes the Tubeworks look like the only way to go.

Needless to say, I want a couple!
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:10 AM   #71 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=lxh0318;14239950]
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Originally Posted by jpizol View Post

For a whole set up up 3rd, not just the gears. The gears run between 600 and 1000. Pretty comparible to a Mega 9 or Super 14.
You only have two choices of carriers with the Mega9 or the 10"

Spool or spool.

With the S14 or Jrat's 69 you get more choices.

Last edited by KYODER; 04-11-2012 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:47 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:14 PM   #73 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=KYODER;14242021]
Quote:
Originally Posted by lxh0318 View Post

You only have two choices of carriers with the Mega9 or the 10"

Spool or spool....
You can get a meg hi9 ARB or Detroit
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:28 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camo View Post
I just noticed something,

Are the spidertrax drive plates hub centric ?

If so this is a huge improvement and advantage. I run the cone hubs and I wish the drive plates on mine were hub centric. I have been talking with sandy about revamping mine to be hub centric. Cudos to Tom if these are


Camo,

My coan hub's are hub centric, I remember yours didn't have the pilots on them like mine do. Sandy sent me mine, and I had to turn them to just the right OD to work.
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:39 PM   #75 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=masonmachines;14243950]
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You can get a meg hi9 ARB or Detroit
Yes but because the carrier/internal parts are alot smaller than a 60 or a 14 bolt they don't seem to hold up to racing. Some have made them work though.
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