FJ80-based 4-seater truggy build at Pacific Fabrication - Page 3 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:08 AM   #51 (permalink)
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I dont post much but I have to tell you how cool that is, if I ever wiped my rig out I have always seriously thought about a firewall buggy. For a recreational wheeler who will never be able to step up to racing, a full buggy really isnt practical. Seriously cool build.

Kevin, PacFab looks incredible, thats an awesome place.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:18 AM   #52 (permalink)
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if you get rid of the radius arms can I have em?
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:19 AM   #53 (permalink)
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not a fan of the front fenders either...do they serve a purpose? or just following the lines?
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:20 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Your forklift has a better seat than my rig Nice work though.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:33 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Looks like there might be just enough room to fit an upper link on the pass-side if we re-make the pass-side motor-mount. maybe.
i didnt remake the engine mount. put the 3rd upper link on the inside of the pass side frame rail. but i also left the lower link mounts hanging below the frame. would be better to pull the lower frame link mounts up as well...
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:50 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Just posted this in that thread where I was asking questions about the front suspension:

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Thanks again for all the help. Took some time this morning to read through the links posted, and some other stuff I found by searching. Going to pull one of the bolts to make sure we have clearance everywhere we need it, and will talk to the owner about upgrading to a 3-link somewhere down the line. Think we're going to have to remove/rebuild the pass-side motor-mount because we're cycling the front axle up to the point where it's almost touching the bottom of the framerails on full compression. Doesn't leave much room for anything!
Removed the stock bumpstops and cut the stock bumpstop mounts off the frame. Allows the front axle to cycle to within 1/2" of the bottom of the framerails. Haven't looked at that area too closely, but squeezing a link in there might be difficult/impossible without at least modifying the motor mount. At least on this rig.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:52 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Cool build guys.

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it may benefit from some rolled tube up front around the fenders so the car isn't so boxy around the tires.
Kevin... If you havn't got one yet, you can borrow my roller any time you want!

I hope you do cuz those fenders are fugly!
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:05 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Shrug, fenders work with the rest of the rig.
Eager to see it skinned !
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:16 AM   #59 (permalink)
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you really are on new ground here with this build.

Several have 3 linked the front of the 80 chassis including myself. So thats nothing new. The difference here is that we all 3 linked the truck and didnt' allow for more uptravel. In fact all the 3 link jobs on IH8mud LIMITED up travel to some extent. this is the first time someone has tried get more uptravel. I think you are going to need to move the tierod to the front of the axle to get the uptarvel and flex you want..
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:42 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Cool build guys.



Kevin... If you havn't got one yet, you can borrow my roller any time you want!

I hope you do cuz those fenders are fugly!
Thanks Toby. We do have a roller here at the shop. Just focusing on other parts of the build. With most of the perimeter tubework done now, want to move on to the suspension and seat mounts. Will go back and finish-up the fenders and a few other things after we make some more progress.

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you really are on new ground here with this build.

Several have 3 linked the front of the 80 chassis including myself. So thats nothing new. The difference here is that we all 3 linked the truck and didnt' allow for more uptravel. In fact all the 3 link jobs on IH8mud LIMITED up travel to some extent. this is the first time someone has tried get more uptravel. I think you are going to need to move the tierod to the front of the axle to get the uptarvel and flex you want..
Just took a few pics to show you what we're working with. 3-link would definitely be possible if we re-make the pass-side motor-mount. That's really the only thing that's in the way, but can't see how we'd be able to fit any type of link up in that area without re-working the motor-mount. And at that point, we'd just convert to straight lower links, so the tie-rod shouldn't be much of an issue. This is all gonna have to be done somewhere down the road, just like thinking about this kind of stuff now in case there's anything we can to do make future modifications better/easier/cheaper.





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Old 09-14-2011, 11:44 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Might be as easy as just cutting out the vertical backside of the motor-mount. That would make some room right where we'd need it.
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:06 PM   #62 (permalink)
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what about building one of these x-link things?

/forum/land-rover/827845-x-link-front-suspension-rrc.html
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:21 PM   #63 (permalink)
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why is that underside so clean? ya'll ain't got dirt outchyonder?
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:50 PM   #64 (permalink)
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what about building one of these x-link things?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=827845
Interesting. Thanks for the link Fred. Think it's actually going to be pretty easy to add an upper link on top of the diff housing that will tuck up into the motor-mount pocket, but will read-up on that X-link out of general curiosity.
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why is that underside so clean? ya'll ain't got dirt outchyonder?
Was a DD before it was rolled.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:48 PM   #65 (permalink)
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never seen an 80 series axle stuffed up that much. looks like you need to cut motor mount.

so cool
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:25 PM   #66 (permalink)
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if you get rid of the radius arms can I have em?
Sent you an e-mail
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:36 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Freed-up the front suspension by removing one of the radius-arm bolts like the guys in the Land Cruiser forum suggested, and man, what a difference! Was able to get a much more respectable amount of articulation out of the fronted, and check the tire-to-tube/firewall clearance. These pictures are at full-stuff, and the wheels turned to full-lock. Just barely, but it clears all the tubes. Need to trim the firewall back a little further though.







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Old 09-14-2011, 09:45 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Continued working on the engine-cage and upper coilover mounts. In order to float the horizontal tube, I cut/notched two pieces of scrap tubing to the right length, then strung a centerline and leveled the horizontal tube. Bit of a balancing act, but it's level, square, and centered to within a little more than a 1/16" over the framerails. Started a thread about tolerances in chassis-building because I was curious about what kind of tolerances other people are aiming for, and holding. This project has been a bit of a challenge because it was rolled, but I've managed to keep most of the tubes within 1/8" and I think it's probably within 1/4-3/8" overall?





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Old 09-14-2011, 09:50 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Added two more temporary supports to keep the horizontal tube in place, and then notched and fit a couple of the tubes that will make up the engine-cage and upper coilover mounts. That's all for today.





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Old 09-14-2011, 09:52 PM   #70 (permalink)
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...oh, and those tubes don't hit the corners of the upper radiator support because the radiator takes up the entire space between the framerails.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:22 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Jesse did I miss the tire size?
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:32 PM   #72 (permalink)
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No, sorry, guess I haven't really posted much in the way of details.
Tires are 37" Krawlers.
Coilovers are 2.5x17" Bilsteins.
Axles are stuffed with a detroit in the rear and an ARB up front, with longfields, etc.
Not sure what else.
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:55 AM   #73 (permalink)
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No, sorry, guess I haven't really posted much in the way of details.
Tires are 37" Krawlers.
Coilovers are 2.5x17" Bilsteins.
Axles are stuffed with a detroit in the rear and an ARB up front, with longfields, etc.
Not sure what else.
Only thing I see missing is chromo shafts in the rear, beefy hub studs all around.... and sumbitchlldig.
Hell, if he don't bounce then the stock shafts in the rear will be fine.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:12 AM   #74 (permalink)
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No, sorry, guess I haven't really posted much in the way of details.
Tires are 37" Krawlers.
Coilovers are 2.5x17" Bilsteins.
Axles are stuffed with a detroit in the rear and an ARB up front, with longfields, etc.
Not sure what else.
17-inch travel?!?!!
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:05 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Front fenders = reserve judgment until ride height is set.
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