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Old 09-15-2011, 10:37 AM   #76 (permalink)
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17-inch travel?!?!!
Yeah, they're custom-made short-bodied 17's. Bilstein's 15" coilovers only cycle 14.2" metal-to-metal, so that would have left us with about 13" of usable stroke after bumping and strapping. The stock (slightly modified) suspension is capable of cycling about 15" of pretty clean vertical wheel-travel, so we would have had to limit travel if we used shorter shocks. 15's probably would have been just about right for the stock fronted, which cycles about 13" of vertical wheel-travel, but we had room to fit 17's, and it's convenient to run the same shocks at all four corners.
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:22 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Nice Build

I say ditch the fenders

Check boogerweldz thread in the LC section for some ideas on suspension
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:36 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Got a little bit more work done on the engine-cage today. We always try to weld-up any part of a tube junction that will be hidden by another tube. In this case, am showing the tubes that we had to weld, and combined with the offset tubes, it made for some crazy notches. Was not possible to fit one of the tubes without slicing it, so we cut an ear off that tube and then tacked it back into place after assembly.









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Old 09-15-2011, 10:48 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Knew things were going to get weird on the driver's-side. Had to run a 1.25" diameter tube over the intake manifold in order to maintain clearance over the engine. Could have used 1.75" tubing, but would have had to put a bend in it and didn't like the way that would have looked. Would have been easiest to fit/weld the outer 1.75" tube first, and then notch the 1.25" tube into that, but again, didn't like the way that looked. So opted to slice into the 1.75" tube and lay the 1.25" tube into that channel. Then cut down the edge of the 1.75" tube that extended past the 1.25" tube, heat it, and beat it down to close the gap and effectively hide that part of the tube. Was a very small detail, but think it looks a little better/cleaner this way.



















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Old 09-15-2011, 11:30 PM   #80 (permalink)
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May have missed this.. But are you planning to make the engine cage removable?
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:10 AM   #81 (permalink)
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May have missed this.. But are you planning to make the engine cage removable?
Yes, the crossbar over the engine and the top tube of the radiator support will both have to be cut out if/when the engine ever has to be removed. Then tube-clamps will be added so it can all be bolted back together. That's how I built the engine-cage for my tacoma and I think it's pretty common? But pacfab put a new engine in this vehicle two years ago, so hopefully it'll be a long time before we have to cut those tubes out.



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Old 09-16-2011, 05:25 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Yes, the crossbar over the engine and the top tube of the radiator support will both have to be cut out if/when the engine ever has to be removed.

But pacfab put a new engine in this vehicle two years ago, so hopefully it'll be a long time before we have to cut those tubes out.
yikes! Headgasket failure?
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:58 AM   #83 (permalink)
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yikes? Think you might have misunderstood my reply. Those two tubes were designed to be removable. Might end up cutting them out and installing tube clamps as part of the initial build, but there's really not much point. Might as well wait until they need to be removed to cut them out. Make sense?
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Old 09-16-2011, 11:21 AM   #84 (permalink)
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yikes? Think you might have misunderstood my reply.
nope, you misunderstood mine! LOL. i was refering to the engine replacement 2 years ago... must have been a HG failure... these 1FZE's don't fail otherwise. ever
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:15 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Knew things were going to get weird on the driver's-side. Had to run a 1.25" diameter tube over the intake manifold in order to maintain clearance over the engine. Could have used 1.75" tubing, but would have had to put a bend in it and didn't like the way that would have looked. Would have been easiest to fit/weld the outer 1.75" tube first, and then notch the 1.25" tube into that, but again, didn't like the way that looked. So opted to slice into the 1.75" tube and lay the 1.25" tube into that channel. Then cut down the edge of the 1.75" tube that extended past the 1.25" tube, heat it, and beat it down to close the gap and effectively hide that part of the tube. Was a very small detail, but think it looks a little better/cleaner this way.



















That looks dumb. No strength added, just a lot of extra work. If the tube hit in the middle of the node it would be less noticeable anyway.

Is the owner from alabama or Tennessee? Got $5 on it.
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:33 PM   #86 (permalink)
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That looks dumb. No strength added, just a lot of extra work.
(pssst... it's not done)
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:50 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Is the owner from alabama or Tennessee? Got $5 on it.
One could only dream they're from here.
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:58 PM   #88 (permalink)
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nope, you misunderstood mine! LOL. i was refering to the engine replacement 2 years ago... must have been a HG failure... these 1FZE's don't fail otherwise. ever
Oh, gotcha. No idea. Will have to ask Kevin about that.
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:09 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Seems like you could have accomplished the same overall look and function of the engine cage much easier by just using 2 tubes front to back (same lines you have now) with a slight bend in them, then adding a spreader in the middle vs. all the work of "floating" the center tube and adding all the other tubes. Would have looked a bit better IMO as well. For the time you spent on that part I hope the owner isn't paying by the hour.

Also, the 1.25" tube on the drivers side is very noticable. If it was mine, I'd just run the 1.25" on both sides to make it symetrical.

*edit*
Forgot to mention, it looks great overall. I'd love to chop into my Jeep like that, but I haven't quite gotten to that point yet.

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Old 09-16-2011, 03:45 PM   #90 (permalink)
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added strength or not that is attention to detail!!! Nice work.
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:20 PM   #91 (permalink)
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As far as the front suspension goes, cut off the upper bolt on one of the radius arms, turning it into a link, making the system a wristed radius arm? Seems like it would be simple and work well. Nothing has to move.
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:13 PM   #92 (permalink)
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As far as the front suspension goes, cut off the upper bolt on one of the radius arms, turning it into a link, making the system a wristed radius arm? Seems like it would be simple and work well. Nothing has to move.
That's what I've done (just by removing one of the bolts on one of the arms) in order to flex it out and verify clearances. But the tierod hits the radius arms, and it won't be much work to turn this into a parallel 3-link. Talked to the owner about it tonight, and he's going to rock it like this for a while and we'll get around to that later.
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:17 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Looking good so far Jesse. Couple things you might want to address on the cruiser platform. First, with as tight of tolerance as you have on the engine cage it would be wise to chain or limit the motor mounts in some way as they are a common failure on LC's. Second, whatever direction you go on the front suspension, it would be wise to reinforce the radius arm mounting brackets on the front axle. I just had to replace a front axle on a customer's 80 that ripped the passenger side mount in half from the stress of constant flexing (commertial rig used in Moab).

Just thought I'd share some info I've learned on working on these and I look forward to more updates.
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Old 09-17-2011, 01:20 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips mrboyle. Already got some new engine mounts to install and can see how those link mounts could stand to be beefed-up.

Added a few more tubes to the engine-cage today. Spent some time cycling the suspension to figure out tube placement, and had to get a little bit creative on the driver's-side in order to clear the steering box, steering shaft, steering hoses, coilover, intake manifold, master cylinder, dip-stick, etc. Also updated the CAD models so I can design the coil over mounting tabs to fit the tubework.





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Old 09-17-2011, 10:19 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Are you going to plate the frame where the tubes hit it?
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Old 09-17-2011, 10:50 AM   #96 (permalink)
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yes
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:23 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Jason cut some plate and then we started working on the shock mounts and radiator mounts and some other details. Don't remember where I first saw this trick, but it's a good one: in this case I left a .25" wide strip of material attached to the upper shock mount backing plate in order to help align everything (rotating the plate until that piece of the plate was vertical).



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Old 09-29-2011, 09:25 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Cut-up the stock gas tank to clear the 2x3" crossmember that pierced the top portion of the frame at the forward part of the B-pillar.

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Old 09-29-2011, 09:49 PM   #99 (permalink)
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I've chopped up many an 80 series, and one thing i know is that you learn things while doing it and do things differently the second, third time around... I wish I could send you my junk as your second 80 project...
OK, here's something. Made a mistake that seems so obvious now that I'm almost embarrassed to admit it, but here's how it happened. Clearance between the tires and the frame was TIGHT. Real tight. And chopping the frame wouldn't have really helped because even when the back seats are pushed together until they're touching, they are still every bit as wide as the frame (outside-to-outside). So I brought the tube work straight up from the frame (same width as the seats), knowing there would be interference, but not seeing any way around it besides wheel spacers and limiting articulation. If I'd spent a little more time fitting the seats and cycling the suspension and thinking about it beforehand, I would have saved myself a lot of work.
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:00 PM   #100 (permalink)
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We knew there were would be some rubbing, but this was unacceptable. Would have had to run something like 3" wheel spacers and still would have had to limit articulation to avoid rubbing. What I'd failed to consider is that the seats are narrower at the back/bottom, so the tubework was the place the tires rubbed (a bit of an understatement). Decided that the best way to fix this was to cut into the tubes and the box them. So I spent a few hours forklifting and cutting. and forklifting and cutting. and forklifting and cutting.













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