FJ80-based 4-seater truggy build at Pacific Fabrication - Page 5 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:05 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Then took some measurements and cut some plates to box-in those sections.




Daniel just joined the pacfab crew recently, and he does most of the welding now. So I asked him to weld-up all the joints that would be hidden by the plate work.

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Old 09-29-2011, 10:09 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Posted in that thread I started about tolerances in chassis-building about how I make fairly accurate marks to take measurements from with sharpies. Since even the fine-tip sharpies make marks about an 1/8" wide, it's difficult to make marks to take accurate measurements from. So I got in the habit of measuring from one side of a mark or the other, and I indicate which one with an arrow. I use bits of angle-iron to make marks lengthwise, and wrap paper around the tube to get a sharp line around a tube. Might be better off using something like the silver pencils that some of the other guys recommend, I just never knew any better, and everything else I tried rubbed-off too easily.

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Old 09-29-2011, 10:15 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Figured I might as well reinforce the upper coilover mount and the outer portion of the fender/shockmount crossmember while I was at it. Tack-welded the front and back plates into place, and then hand-bent the side plates - pre-bending and then tack-welding and making adjustments as I went. Cutting the tubes on the other side was a lot easier because I was able to use the sheetmetal as templates.



















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Old 09-29-2011, 10:21 PM   #104 (permalink)
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The 1/2" Bilstein shock-eyes only allow about 20-degrees of articulation, and that was all we could allow before I cut into those tubes, so I made the shock mounts parallel to the axle. So after I fixed that I had to cut off the lower coilover mounts and turn the shock mounts 90-degrees. Made some nice boxed lower mounts.



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Old 09-29-2011, 10:24 PM   #105 (permalink)
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The pacfab guys are all up at the Rubicon right now, so the owner decided to take the rig over to his shop, where he's going to do some wiring and sort-out some of the smaller details over the weekend.

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Old 09-29-2011, 10:52 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Sweet build!
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:07 AM   #107 (permalink)
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Posted in that thread I started about tolerances in chassis-building about how I make fairly accurate marks to take measurements from with sharpies. Since even the fine-tip sharpies make marks about an 1/8" wide, it's difficult to make marks to take accurate measurements from. So I got in the habit of measuring from one side of a mark or the other, and I indicate which one with an arrow. I use bits of angle-iron to make marks lengthwise, and wrap paper around the tube to get a sharp line around a tube. Might be better off using something like the silver pencils that some of the other guys recommend, I just never knew any better, and everything else I tried rubbed-off too easily.


After you make your mark with a sharpie, go back with a sharp scribe or a scrap of tungsten and scratch your "actual" measuring mark into the sharpie mark. I do that frequently as it's a lot cleaner than getting Dykem overspray all over a chassis while getting marks laid out.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:24 AM   #108 (permalink)
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Woo i think it would have been easier to just cut tubes out and redo them.....I wouldnt want to know what that cost, given what shop rates are.....
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:30 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Woo i think it would have been easier to just cut tubes out and redo them.....I wouldnt want to know what that cost, given what shop rates are.....
LOL. I wasn't gonna say it.... but yeah.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:58 AM   #110 (permalink)
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Woo i think it would have been easier to just cut tubes out and redo them.....I wouldnt want to know what that cost, given what shop rates are.....
Look way cleaner too. Use a rolled tube instead.
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:46 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Woo i think it would have been easier to just cut tubes out and redo them.....I wouldnt want to know what that cost, given what shop rates are.....
Did that work on my own time over the last weekend. Obviously would have been faster/easier to use bent/rolled tubes, but I chose to do it this way because I thought it was better/cleaner, and wanted to do the best job I could of fixing a mistake that I had made.
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:55 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Took a couple more pics today while we were checking clearances, and a few more of some other little details that we've been working on.













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Old 09-30-2011, 05:01 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Couple things you might want to address on the cruiser platform. First, with as tight of tolerance as you have on the engine cage it would be wise to chain or limit the motor mounts in some way as they are a common failure on LC's.
Look what I found. haha. Owner had told us the engine mounts were bad, so we replaced them before we mounted the radiator in order to make sure the fan shroud would line up properly. Was kinda surprised that they're not captured mounts. Took your advice and chained the motormounts. At least the pass-side. Haven't gotten around to the driver's-side yet...

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Old 10-01-2011, 09:30 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Are you working at pacfab now ?
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:48 AM   #115 (permalink)
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No, just helped them out with a few projects since I've been back in town.
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:17 PM   #116 (permalink)
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cool man they are a good shop.
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:47 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Look what I found. haha. Owner had told us the engine mounts were bad, so we replaced them before we mounted the radiator in order to make sure the fan shroud would line up properly. Was kinda surprised that they're not captured mounts. Took your advice and chained the motormounts. At least the pass-side. Haven't gotten around to the driver's-side yet...
Those things are fun to change aren't they?
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:11 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:36 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Those things are fun to change aren't they?
Are you saying they're hard?
I've pulled half a dozen drivers side 80's motor mounts (usually always broken). drilled/pounded out the studs and drilled out a line and just run a grade 10 bolt straight through the existing holes. Nary a problem.
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:57 AM   #120 (permalink)
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Old 10-30-2011, 01:36 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Are you saying they're hard?
I've pulled half a dozen drivers side 80's motor mounts (usually always broken). drilled/pounded out the studs and drilled out a line and just run a grade 10 bolt straight through the existing holes. Nary a problem.
I do the same thing on mini trucks. Chains look tacky, IMO especially on a shop build.
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Old 10-30-2011, 07:42 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Updates?
Owner has it at his shop to finish up all the little things. Seeing that he has been out of town for the past 3 weeks I dont think he has gotten anything done.
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:42 AM   #123 (permalink)
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Owner has it at his shop to finish up all the little things. Seeing that he has been out of town for the past 3 weeks I dont think he has gotten anything done.
Zero.

It is getting a bit of mileage though as the machinists roll it in and out of the shop just about every day
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:03 PM   #124 (permalink)
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i like how the majority of the tube work is straight, few bends but lots of tube gives it the "race" look, like a skinless ProTruck or something. i like it, but i'm different.

i should move farther west someday and really see some fabbed rigs.
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Old 11-05-2011, 12:26 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Well I am now doing this as I rolled my 98 4Runner last Saturday. I have all of the body cut off pretty much the same as you have, let me tell you it's a lot of fun. One place I am curious about is the rocker panel area and how you have attached the "slider" potion of the cage to the body and frame. If you have pictures they would be appreciated. Trying to find a good starting point and not totally sure how to attack the rocker. It's going to get linked in the front with a HP60 and maybe leafs in the rear with a 14B. Just trying to get a little advice.

matt.
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