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Old 10-26-2011, 10:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
JR
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Spring loaded side mirrors

Thinking about making some spring loaded side mirrors. Sounds simple, but to do it elegantly, the spring should be an internal torsion type spring.
Looking for ideas.

Anybody have any examples of spring loaded mirrors they have made or bought?

I saw one on RDC a while back, but can't seem to find the car it was on now.

It would be like the example here only with some kind of spring and henge mechanism where it attaches to the chassis.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe copy a set of dirt bike foot pegs with the spring/pin action. Plus, you could find them for cheap used. $.02
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You could use a spring loaded cam action. You wouldn't see the spring.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not sure what it's called, but could you make a hinge like "bar doors" use.
Run a spring down the inside and have the bottom run up some ramps as it swings back and forth. The spring would be hidden. Just have to keep it tight.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Not sure what it's called, but could you make a hinge like "bar doors" use.
Or self closing hinges used for garage doors (entry type door).
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Look up gravity closing hinge. Replace the pin with some kind of pin/ spring setup and yur golden
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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This setup with a cam and spring works very well. It used on the Volvo C303 portal axle trucks.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I like the spring idea but will it ever return to where your line of sight needs it? I know some guys have a small handle on them so they can return them to the proper location and adjust them as needed. With our east coast racing, trees tend to knock them back very often.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Spring loaded door hinge with an adjustable nut behind it for an adjustment stop.

Whack the door tabs off and use the hinge barrel.
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:00 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You wont need mirrors...
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I like the spring idea but will it ever return to where your line of sight needs it? I know some guys have a small handle on them so they can return them to the proper location and adjust them as needed. With our east coast racing, trees tend to knock them back very often.
Well the set up would have a positive stop on it, but I think you're thinking like I was about going out of adjustment when the mirror hammers on the stop.

Reaching through window nets, it might be hard to bring the mirror back into alignment. Especially racing. This is why I wasn't crazy about the hose clamped on version we can buy.

Another problem with the spring loaded mirror is that like a fingernail, it only works one way. Backing up is going to be bad for the mirror bracket's health.

The spring loaded door hinge might work. Maybe a way to soften the stop would help keep the mirror from going out of adjustment.

I really like the cam idea like what's on the Volvo.
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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mount it solid for the codawg and be done
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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radius into a radius (think saddle joint) on the arms with a good spring in the middle will always return to about the same spot and will bend both ways
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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figured a simple better way but i have nothing here to draw it with so bare with me

Find steel "ball" or dome the same size as the ID of the mirror arms, drill a hole big enough to run a wire cable though it. Weld the ball/dome in one half of the mirror arm. Run and secure the wire to the spring and each end to each half of the arm respecively.
So INSIDE the arm it would go:
Securing pin attached to wire, wire goes through the hole in the ball, ball is welded to one half of arm, wire then connects to spring that is secured in other half of arm.

What this does is allows the arm to be pushed front or back, the cable allows it to bend much more than a spring being in that "joint", the flat surface of the tube when pulled back in place will always be in the same location.

If confused i can draw it later
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Having a spring loaded mirror will make it much more susceptible to vibrations, reducing it's effectiveness. Take that into consideration with your spring selection. A stiffer spring will allow it to move under a high load, but will keep it isolated under engine and terrain vibrations.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You have now taken 'overthinking' to a whole new level JR

If you have found a way to hit a tree with your mirror in that car...something else has gone terribly wrong.

Hose clamp them on (with chromoly hose clamps of course)... or... drive faster. If you drive faster than everyone else, you don't need mirrors.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If you drive faster than everyone else, you don't need mirrors.
You do need a horn though. Surprised JR, of all people, didn't post up some Horn tech.
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:33 PM   #18 (permalink)
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My first attempt with mild steel.

I like the single tooth cam because it can be folded out of the way it needed. It also folds backward. It seems if the car is that tight against rocks, there is always a little backward movement.

The spring is .081" and is too light. Maybe .120" or thicker springs.

Learned a lot on this practice run about ramp degree. It would be nice to have it done in a computer program then laser cut instead of doing it by hand.
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:13 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Is the "valley" wide enough that it actually returns to position after being jacked say 90 degrees from standard position or does it just sit where it is?
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Magnets with a hinged at an angle that allows gravity to drop the mirror and relock magnets.
A mini a arm with a swinging magnet that contacts a rigid tab. The swinging magnets will allow bidirectional hits and relocks.
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:04 PM   #21 (permalink)
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You have now taken 'overthinking' to a whole new level JR
Will you still say that when Mckenzie's, Kartec and Poly Performance adds a mig welded, mild steel version on their menu?



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Is the "valley" wide enough that it actually returns to position after being jacked say 90 degrees from standard position or does it just sit where it is?
It will probably go something like 60 deg. before it will not return to center.

I ordered a couple different kinds of springs today. Below is the mongo stiff one. We'll see after it's all done whether it goes into the round file or not.
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:08 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Jr you rock, I'll take the second pair for christmas
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:00 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I still think mine will work better and be less complicated


But I am trying to goad you into making it so if it works I can copy it because then I know it works
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:02 PM   #24 (permalink)
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i like that idea, but with a u-shaped saddle and reciever for a positive return.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I still think mine will work better and be less complicated
Still not quite following the idea Does it spring back against a stop or detent?

Try to draw it again only better
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