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Old 01-22-2012, 09:01 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laproscopic View Post
agreed
IT CANT BE DONE. maybe on a smaller wheel. We couldnt get the tire over any farther than this and I hope the bead on this tire still functions. tore the wheel up too. took a lot of force to get the lip over as much as seen in the pic.

Im callin raceline tomorow. I hope they take these back and make me a new set.
I seriously doubt raceline is going to just give you a new set of wheels after you destroyed the ones they sent you. maybe you should go back to idiotville where you came from
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:20 AM   #27 (permalink)
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i would have let those tires sit out side all day in the sun and then had at it with some soapy water.

why the strange offset? i would think that on most axles that would be bad for scrub radius. just wondering?
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:38 AM   #28 (permalink)
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You are going to ask raceline what after using steel spoons and posting pics of your hackness ?
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:06 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I doubt raceline will take the wheels back since they are custom. If they do, the OP will have to eat the one he tore up, definitely wont take that one back.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:10 AM   #30 (permalink)
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in all honesty there really is no reason to bead lock the outside of that wheel because the outside of that wheel is the large safety bead side of the tire. to push the outer bead off of a reverse drop wheel youd literally need to push that bead 6" in before it would burp air. the inner bead is the bead that will come off long before the outer bead on that particular wheel because of the short distance the bead needs to move inward before it loses contact with the wheel drum.
^^ This ^^

Let us know what Raceline says about returning them
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:35 AM   #31 (permalink)
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It can be done. First, I would call Raceline and ask them to have all the tires and wheels picked up, taken to their place, have them mounted and shipped back to you, at their cost. I suspect they would be happy to do it rather than read about it here.

or, 2nd, you need to have the inside flange cut down to about .25" to .375". trust me, the beadlock function will still work and you'll be able to get the tire on. If you've ever seen an old Eaton beadlock, they only had about 1/8" of flange behind the bead.

After cutting down the od of the inside flange, I always recomend mounting the tire from the front as it allows your to attack it at an angle to start. Lots of soap behind the inside flange so it wont fight you as much. Small tire irons only. Good Luck.

Finally, wear the tires out and sell the wheels with them.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:56 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Lube the drop center with tire lube or dawn, the tires will make awful noise but will mount as i've mounted several sets of reverse drop wheels.

They have to be mounted properly, from the back, then dismount the bead to be used as a beadlock.

Your main problem is alu is thicker than steel and you have 9" wide wheels. you may need to grind a notch in one part of the wheel that would allow the bead to sink further into the drop.

The other problem youll learn, is that most reverse drop wheels lose inner beads.

Ship them to my shop and i'll mount them, free of charge, you pay freight both ways.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:03 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Its the same issue I have with my 17" monster double beadlocks and that large safety bead. Its damn near impossible to mount them. Harder than hell and it takes 2 or 3 people 2 hours a wheel to do it. It can be done. You will be wore out. I've cussed more mounting and taking apart those wheels than any thing else. Good luck but it can be done.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:04 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I didnt see it, maybe I just missed it.

Did Raceline tell you they would have to be a reverse center wheel when you ordered the,?
And if they did, did you ask them what that meant?
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:34 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I've never mounted a wheel like that BUT you need some real tire irons or someone is going to get their back hurt. That's the size we use on dirt bike tires.If you know someone that does semi work they should be able to help, they usually have a large set. I hate the wheels got hurt they look sweet!
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:54 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidr View Post
I didnt see it, maybe I just missed it.

Did Raceline tell you they would have to be a reverse center wheel when you ordered the,?
And if they did, did you ask them what that meant?
I like raceline. they are a top notch part of this community.

Im not a wheel guru. i told them what i needed to accomplish and this is the solution i was given. I agreed to it. Im sure everything will work out fine.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:27 AM   #37 (permalink)
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I wasnt saying they wherent.
I like racelines too. One of the nicest wheels we've mounted in the shop. Was just curious.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:52 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DOUG38S View Post
Its the same issue I have with my 17" monster double beadlocks and that large safety bead. Its damn near impossible to mount them. Harder than hell and it takes 2 or 3 people 2 hours a wheel to do it. It can be done. You will be wore out. I've cussed more mounting and taking apart those wheels than any thing else. Good luck but it can be done.
Hmm, I would have thought you could spread the tire enough to just slip the wheel inside sideways and then turn it. Is that not possible? Or is that what takes so much work?
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Your local big rig shop should be able to tell you who they order their tire bars through, get two of these baby bars



Take small "bites" and worry about dressing the wheel edge with a file when your done.

http://www.31inc.com/node/11475

It WILL sound like shit as the beads stretch, just take your time and use a ton of tire lube or pure dawn, you want it slippery!!!
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:11 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arya Ebrahimi View Post
Hmm, I would have thought you could spread the tire enough to just slip the wheel inside sideways and then turn it. Is that not possible? Or is that what takes so much work?
I've done it both ways. It just takes forever to do it.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:12 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutt View Post
Your local big rig shop should be able to tell you who they order their tire bars through, get two of these baby bars



Take small "bites" and worry about dressing the wheel edge with a file when your done.

http://www.31inc.com/node/11475

It WILL sound like shit as the beads stretch, just take your time and use a ton of tire lube or pure dawn, you want it slippery!!!
Exactly what he said. Small bites go faster. And plenty of lube. I use tranny fluid.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:16 PM   #42 (permalink)
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are these for your ifs buggy? you doing some BIG expensive cvs or what? can you post some pics of the set up?
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:03 PM   #43 (permalink)
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ya for the ifs car. in retrospect it would have been wise to build the ifs assembly around common wheels instead of making the wheels around the IFS. i had the custom deep offset 18" wheels made so i could stuff the ifs assembly deeper into the wheel to net us more travel. a lot of time, money, and hassle for very little gain.


raceline is cool.

they suggested to try this:

1. round off the beadlock edge with a flapper so the wheel slides on easier
2. lube it good
3 mount the wheel from the outside like i did the first time but dont use a tire iron at all. they said to have a couple guys hold a starting lip of the tire over the beadlock face and up against the weld. then use a real long 3/8 extension and a hammer and carefully use the extension to tap the tire lip over the rounded off beadlock lip. need to have a mounting BBq at my house. ill take pics and report back
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:59 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laproscopic View Post
ya for the ifs car. in retrospect it would have been wise to build the ifs assembly around common wheels instead of making the wheels around the IFS. i had the custom deep offset 18" wheels made so i could stuff the ifs assembly deeper into the wheel to net us more travel. a lot of time, money, and hassle for very little gain.


raceline is cool.

they suggested to try this:

1. round off the beadlock edge with a flapper so the wheel slides on easier
2. lube it good
3 mount the wheel from the outside like i did the first time but dont use a tire iron at all. they said to have a couple guys hold a starting lip of the tire over the beadlock face and up against the weld. then use a real long 3/8 extension and a hammer and carefully use the extension to tap the tire lip over the rounded off beadlock lip. need to have a mounting BBq at my house. ill take pics and report back
thats the price you pay to get good angles and big travel. i dunno its not like your going to be dis/remounting beads while racing. custom shit is the name of the game your playing. ide say your doing it right. i still want to seeee some pics or get a link plleaseeee?
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:29 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:53 PM   #46 (permalink)
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i just mounted some very similar 17's i was an idiot and fought one for about 2 hours over the outside of the rim before i realized how much easier it was to so from the other side first and then over the front. i spent $150 on three very nice 32" long tire irons and without them there in no way i could have done it. i also ground down the inside sharp lip of the bead of the tire so it would slide over a little smoother. good luck
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:25 PM   #47 (permalink)
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What are the diameters of the two flanges?
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:16 PM   #48 (permalink)
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What are the diameters of the two flanges?
the outside of the beadlock ring is a tad over 18.5'

We ground off the edge and attacked it from the outside with some skinnier spoons and lots of lube. Made a special 5/8" dowel and tried to hammer the tire over the lip as suggested. This method seems useless. see the pics of the skinny spoons we used. these 18" wheels are not letting it over. sighh
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:22 PM   #49 (permalink)
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would make a cool set of fake beadlocks. they mount fine to the wheel if you dont want to use the lock ring. the part that i have gouged on this wheel cleaned up nice with a flapper and with the beadlock ring on it looks perfect. Ill bet you all want them?

Nobody else makes an 18" beadlock do they?
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:27 PM   #50 (permalink)
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What tire are you using, that 18's are required? Can't you find some 17's or 20's?
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