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Old 02-11-2011, 08:02 AM   #76 (permalink)
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I ran a steering assist like others and Hit 105 with no death wobble- Jess
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:58 AM   #77 (permalink)
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Wow, this is an awesome thread! I will do this before I put the Chevy back on the road! I experienced DW only a couple times but it freaked the crap out of me!
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:59 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Smith; what does your caster look like? If you don't have enough angle there you're going to have a hard time getting the DW under control.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:06 PM   #79 (permalink)
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i'm not sure what the angle is. Everything is in the stock form or should be. I was told to replace my steering damper thought i might give it a try
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:17 PM   #80 (permalink)
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are your tires in good shape? my scout will DW if I swap the tires side to side on the front. swapped them back it quit. is there any play in your steering box? that'll do it too.
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:58 AM   #81 (permalink)
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the tires are probably junk. they were round and had some tread so i just threw them on there until this spring when i get a new set. I could always put 2 of the nice ones off the rear on and see what happens
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:23 PM   #82 (permalink)
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I tried the OP's fix with washers yesterday afternoon. Before, had unbelievable DW between 30 and 40 MPH, now its gone.

Thanks for some good tech!!!

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Old 02-17-2011, 04:55 AM   #83 (permalink)
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had you replaced the old spring before shimming it or did you just need to add more tension
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:33 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Smith - How worn are your TRE's and DLE's? Steering box tight? Frame cracked around box? Leaf spring bushings worn? Ubolts loose?

Something is shot. Take a look at all of the steering components while you have someone turn the wheel back and forth..
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:27 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Dana 60 knuckles too tight

I just assembled my ford dana 60 (78') with chevy style deaden bear knuckles, chromo 35's inner/outters yukons, grizz locker, 5.13's, 1350 yoke, rock stomper flat hi steer arms with caps cut off and welded on for a smooth botttom with 5 studs. Rebuild kits on both sides and now it's so hard to turn the knuckle when fully tightened. This is with or with out axles installed. The caps are maybe 1/16" shorter than a stock one now, but didn't think I could f this up. Goes to prove I can f up anything. I know this is opposite of this thread but I searched for a place to get some input and this is the best place I found. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:41 AM   #86 (permalink)
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did you get the nylon bushing indexed correctly ? So the rib went in the groove ?

You say smooth bottom then you say the caps are within a 1/16 of stock.
Is the steering arm flat with a preload nut for the bushing or is there a spring in there ?
Also, beware, not all springs are the exact same size, if you are running springs.
You may have to get shorter spring or fix the cap depth to get preload set properly.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:52 PM   #87 (permalink)
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fixed it thanks

Yea I cut 1/8" off of the top of the plastic bushing and it all seams great now.
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:38 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Glad I came across this thread. I'm gonna be doing some work on my DD next week and was hoping that new tires were gonna cure the DW. Looks like I'll be adding some shims at the same time. Thanks for bringing this thread back.
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:41 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geberhard View Post
Well this is a heck of old thread, but I was just thinking about something like this recently. I have had to add pinion shims on my springless kingping arms to deal with DW, but was thinking, why the heck not just create a hole through the arm, over the nylon bushing with a big ol' stud or socket that could be tightened and adjusted as neeeded. seems likea simple enough solution?

Gui
Old thread yet again but has anyone done something like GUI mentioned? I know they make arms with set screws already but for as easy as it would be why not try. My arms still have spring caps and I still use springs. I'm gonna fab something up today and I'll try and post it. Gonna weld a washer to the stud and weld a bolt to the top of the cap. In theory turn bolt and washer will put tension on the spring as needed!?

Any input before I have at it?
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:48 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Been using these with great success.

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Old 06-03-2013, 12:38 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Used an 1/8" solid flat washer under the cap, drilled 1/2 hole in the cap. Welded a locking nut (not nylon) and used a set screw. Seems to work good. Of and drilled and tapped a new grease fitting. Now it's fully adjustable! I must have had the caps off 20 times trying to find the right shim that got rid of the shimmy and didnt kill my steering left to right. Now u can dial it in just right. Will update if it doesn't work out over time. This could be used with the solid springless bushing as well. Cost was about 6 bucks and an hour of my time.

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Old 06-03-2013, 12:48 PM   #92 (permalink)
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A machined springless cap is 50$

Dana 60 Spring Eliminator Cap (Pair)
Dana 60 Spring Eliminator Cap
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