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Broken Spin-on oil filter adapter

4K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  Twankie 
#1 ·
Not sure if this is the right place for this but I am fairly sure that I will get the best exposure and maybe stumble away with the right answer.

So here is what we have. First Gen small block Chevy 350. Running TBI on it but that's of no consequence. Motor has been sitting for probably close to 10 years at this point. We tried firing it a couple of weeks ago but could only turn it over and it never fired due to the coil not being wired :shaking: As we were cranking the starter however, oil was spewing out of the bottom of the block by the oil filter. We assumed that the filter seal was bad and simply swapped out the filter with a new one. Then let it sit until we had the chance to work on it again.

Yesterday, I wired up the coil and fired the motor. Ran it for maybe 20 seconds before we noticed the oil seeping out again. Crawled under the truck and it was leaking from the same place. So we pulled the filter again and everything looks fine. Then we decided to unbolt the adapter and that's when we discovered that it had broken in two. So I'm assuming that the broken adapter resulted in a bad seal and therefore oil all over the ground. That being said, I have two questions:

1) Other than someone over-torquing the bolts when that adapter was installed, can you think of any other reason why the adapter would break? Exit oil port appears to be clear and not clogged.

2) Any specific precautions that I should take when installing the replacement? Clean all surfaces, new gasket and then probably torque to spec (anyone know the specs?). Anything else?

I'm assuming that this is just one of those things that happens every now and then and simply keeps me from finishing a project. But you never know....might be a bigger issue. Throw me your feedback please.
 

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#8 · (Edited)
bypass is in filter

also, you want bypass so you don't suck the filter media through when the filter gets clogged or oil is cold
see it a lot on vw 1.8t motors that people have used old vw diesel filters on with a 30 psi bypass, collapses the inner can and they need a turbo a thousand miles later from the tiny little feed port into the k03 thrust bearing
 
#7 · (Edited)
Right, I saw those but I was questioning why it broke and what I can do to prevent it from breaking again. I like the idea of simply getting rid of the adapter and screwing the pipe nipple into the block. Anyone know if GM Part #14081300 will fit a 350 block? Looks like they are marketed and sold for 4.3L blocks in order to avoid the bypass but I seem to recall that the 4.3L & the 5.7L castings are the same for the back of the block. So most likely the same thread pitch.

Is this the part that I need?
 

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#10 ·
So this was on my motor. My brother has been over helping me wire this damn thing and get it going. Back story:

I had a genI 350 that was just about ready to go. I had roofers come to replace the roof on a house I was living in at the time. Carb was off, Distr was out, and hood was off. I got comp asphalt down the motor passages. That motor came out and I got a TBI to replace it with. I pulled this adapter off the other motor, and had a buddy install it on this one (he said he did this all the time on past motors... GREAT, get it done while I do other things). The car sat for years, and I finally got around ot firing it last weekend.

When the cruiser fired, it sounded like pressure was building and then it just let go. When it let go, I got oil pouring out of the filter.

I think I will try the moroso or some version of that. I just want to get this thing going and see wher eI stand.

Thanks for the advice
Dima
 
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