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Has something changed with Trailready wheels?

7K views 52 replies 18 participants last post by  busyfixin 
#1 ·
I've been running TR wheels since the early 2000s. I recently got a new set of the HD17s about a year ago and have been blowing inner beads like it is going out of style. Not exactly blowing the bead but burping air pretty regular until they are completely flat. Until now I can't even remember the last time I've burped or blown an inner bead. 43 SX tires. Others I ride with have older HD17s and 43 SXs and never burp. I'm about fed up.

I know there's plenty of tricks to do to prevent this, the thread is not about that. My point is I've never had the issue until recently. Anyone else experienced this?
 
#7 ·
you said this thread isnt about it but fwiw i run inner air locks to keep my 43s from burping on regular 17" steelies, the two times ive lost a inner tube ive encountered the same issue with mine constantly burping the inner bead. my 17s go on my 43s so easy i can literally mount the first half of the rim without using my hands, just stand on it using my feet. i tired running just the inner air locks and my first trip out spun the tire on the rim, had to add weld on outer bead lock to stop that. the interference on 17" 43s seems to be pretty loose ime
 
#8 ·
Interco, Pitbulls, and Maxxis will do this on most 17" single beadlocks at extremely low pressures unless you use the "duct tape trick". I run 3 layers of gorilla tape on my HD17s, and have not burped air on any tires since I started using it. I don't think TR changed anything; this has always been the case, just some folks never run 5# of air to find out (or they have a crappy gauge and "believe" the are running 5#).

Duct tape trick = Its cheap, easy, and works great.
 
#10 ·
The tire is known to be a nightmare with blowing beads a Low pressures
Huh!? I’ve run that combo for years. Racing and crawling. The guys I wheel with all run SX and I’ve never heard of an issue till your post. I’d say 3-4lbs is no problem for an SX on any rim I’ve seen. I’ve had them on TR HD’s, steel Race lines myself. The other rims were different brands with no issue. Glad none of us have had this headache.
 
#17 ·
I had this issue a few years ago with both Iroks and Treps. It was so bad that I couldn't take my buggy two tracking without an air source. I sold the TR, as they seem to be made for go fast rigs with high pressure and thin tires, and clearly not crawlers with little to no pressure and tough tires. I went with a basic aluminum wheel, (stock take off) and installed Inner Air Locks for both the Iroks and Treps. I also use them with some big wide interco STS tires.

Inner Air Locks = useful product that works
TR beadlocks = looks cool in the yard

Chrome won't get you home.
 
#19 ·

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#36 ·
I ran 15" inner air locks......about two or 3 runs. Hated them and found if I bumped hard against a log or rock they would still compress enough to burp air.

I have no opinion on TR's but ran Racelines and Spyderlocks. Both would burp on the inner side occasionally. I run my stickies on Rock Monster dual beadlocks and don't look back. I have a set of Iroks on Champion beadlocks for snow wheeling but haven't run them enough to have an opinion.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Why run a single beadlock, when you know you're going to burp air and have flat tires all the time? Just get dual beadlocks, Inner Air Locks, or hell, even innertubes.

I can assure you, I don't wheel my crawler at the mall, but with the TR's on it, that was about all it's good for, and a single seat 4ws crawler isn't much good for going to the mall. I actually have a set of TR beadlocks still. They are 20's. And have Inner Air Locks inside them, to keep the tires on the bead, and give a bump to keep the tire from pinching and cutting the tire.

Normally, I take the high road and won't argue like this about things, but with the amount of arrogance in here, it didn't seem prudent to explain that each product has a different purpose, and both are very good at that purpose.

People buy beadlocks for several reasons. One is to keep the tires on the rims at low air pressure. Inner Air Locks are excellent at this. Single beadlocks, TR or otherwise, are ok-ish at this. Another reason is to keep the tire from spinning on the rim, single beadlocks, TR or otherwise, are excellent at this. Inner Air Locks are ok-ish at this. Another reason is to look cool. Single beadlocks are great at this. IALs are not very good at this. Another reason is to help resist bending rims. Rock rings do this well, but require welding to an existing rim. For about the same price as a new rim plus a ring and welding, you can get a single beadlock rim that does all you need and then some. Add a ring to the back, and you'll have pretty bend resistant rims. Single beadlocks are decent for this application. IALs also help reduce rim bending, as they act as a cushion or tire bump that helps keep the rim from actually contacting an obstacle. IALs are decent for this application, but both the single beadlock and IAL's benefit from adding rings. Another reason people buy beadlocks is to keep their 16.5" tires on the rims. Single beadlocks are not very good at this, as the inner bead will still fall off rather easily, although the outer lock will keep the rim from spinning inside the tire which reduces the chances of it falling off. IALs are excellent at this as they keep both beads on equally well.

Single beadlocks certainly have their place, and are an excellent product for certain applications. Going fast, for example, is something that most manufactured singles are great at. They are machined rather true, can be balanced reasonably well, help keep from bending the outside bead, and have a reasonable overall weight. Of course, IALs can also do these things while also giving an internal tire bump, but they certainly don't look cool, and go fast rigs are suppose to look cool.

IALs are also great, in their best applications, such as keeping both beads on with low tire pressure, fitting 16.5" wheels, rigs on a budget, rigs with preexisting wheels, making single beadlocks work even better, or keeping your tires from slicing when they pinch on impact.

If you're buying new rims for your rig and want to run BFG Reds, or some sort of tow rig tire, like a Nitto, Pro-Comp, Falken, Goodyear, or whatever, and run them at 7+ pounds of air pressure, and keep some sort of OBA, then the TR's or other single beadlock will work great for you.

If you need a product that keeps your beads on at low pressure (0-5 psi) even with 16.5" rims, and tough sidewall tires, give Dookey a call, he has a great product at a fair price.

If you also want it to help keep your tires from pinching and slicing on impact, want an internal tire bump to help resist bending your rims, want to have extra stability at low psi, want to be able to use with your existing rims, or swap to different rims later, and want it to be pretty affordable, then you're going to want to try a set of Inner Air Locks.

For 5 psi and less, a single lock just doesn't cut it, no matter how pretty they are. In snow, they do so-so.

If you want it all, put a set of IALs inside a set of single beadlocks.

For me, and my application, TR's were a joke. A product that really took the fun out of wheeling. I just got to tired of putting beads back on and filling flat tires. With low pressure, it only takes one or two burps to have a flat tire just about to fall off. If I got off an obstacle, that usually meant a tire off the bead. TRs made me a trail plug.

IALs fixed those problems and others I didn't even know I had. Now I can wheel all day and not worry about tires.

FWIW, I can install a set of IALs faster than I can install all the bolts in a set of single beadlocks.

Also, I never said that IALs were for everyone, but you nutswingers sure implied that TRs are, and blamed all the problems on the tires. Typical of Californians, you seem to believe the world revolves around you. We don't all wheel on sandpaper with one ply sidewalls.

Serious question, why would it be so bad if TR made the inner safety bead further in on the bell, you guys with reds could just let the bead slip back a little bit, which probably wouldn't hurt anything, it's not like you guys can handle a little bit of mud, so you wouldn't get anything stuck in there, and if it really bothered you, you could just wrap the rim with duct tape. That's how they told me to fix my $2000 rims.
 
#38 · (Edited)
I love cock
Cool, youre the one guy who inner air locks/stauns have worked for, we get it. Can you stfu now?

It's a tire issue not a wheel issue. You just can't make a safety bead that works with every tire. If they made it work with sx's or treps it wouldn't work with thinner beaded tires. I really don't see how it's trail ready's fault that interco makes shitty loose fitting tires :shaking:

Edit: fixed it :flipoff2:
 
#45 ·
I've considered using water, but I don't really want the weight, I've got a rather light buggy (2640# on 40" Treps), with mostly unsprung weight already. I don't have a ton of power currently, (although that should change soon) so I don't want to add another 20% vehicle weight to drag around. The extra weight seems to help with traction, once all the way on the rocks. We wheel in rocks mixed with a lot of mud, dirt, and underbrush. Extra weight NEVER helps in the mud, and dragging extra weight up vertical climbs without perfect rock traction is counter-effective. I'd try it in another set of tires, but all my tires except the treps get used in the winter, and I don't think tires half full of ice will be the secret elixir for ultimate snow traction.

It clearly works for guys who crawl in warm weather in sandstone.

I'd like to try it sometime. I had a set of 37 Treps I was going to try water in, but I got rid of them before I tried it.
 
#46 ·
Water doesn’t freeze when antifreeze is added to it.


Having a light rig is important, and will
help you go lots of places, but so is traction. A stiff sidewall tire o a light rig isn’t going to conform well to the surface that it’s rolling over. Also, by adding water you are increasing your unsprung weight. This makes the rig more stable and have a higher traction footprint.

Sandstone isn’t my normal stomping ground.
 

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#47 ·
I suspect wheeling in the PNW is not much different than our wheeling in Canada nord of da soo eh. Wheeling the slippery stuff frequently includes the skinny pedal. How does water affect acceleration and bouncing over obstacles? Do they take longer to spin up? More or less breakage?
 
#49 ·
How does water affect acceleration and bouncing over obstacles? Do they take longer to spin up? More or less breakage?
The extra weight is going to work your suspension and axle parts more. Quality shafts and joints are a must.

I don’t have enough experience in bouncing obstacles to be able to give you a informed response. That’s not my driving style.
 
#48 ·
I wasted a tire recently (I guess they don’t like metal fence post who knew). I ran a couple wraps of duct tape on each wheel. I had to get a couple dismounted my usual hilift under the tow rig I couldn’t bust the bead. Took them to two tire shops and they struggled actually bent an inner bead on one wheel.

Yes I know my beads are thinner than the one in question but a couple wraps of duct tape seems cheaper then inner air locks and more reliable.
 

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