Instructions for rebuilding a saginaw box? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > General Tech > General 4x4 Discussion
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-14-2004, 09:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18540
Location: Woodland, CA
Posts: 872
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via AIM to YJ_OVER_SJ
Instructions for rebuilding a saginaw box?

Anyone know where I can find instructions(with pictures preferably) in taking a saginaw box apart and putting it back together? Jeep saginaw box if that makes any difference.

Planning to tap the box for hydro-assist next week and don't want to get metal in the box.

Tried to search but didn't find the detail I was looking for.
__________________
"OBie"
CalRocs 2010 #5150
YJ_OVER_SJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2004, 10:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18540
Location: Woodland, CA
Posts: 872
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via AIM to YJ_OVER_SJ
After searching and reading, reading and searching, I finally found this link off the Scout board.

http://www.jpeater.com/main.htm
-> How To: by Kelly Rives
-> Steering Box

I'm guessing I don't need to do all of this since I'm just trying to tap the box. I'd still like to find pics/diagrams of how the balls are sitting in the box since that's the section I'm still hesitant about. Worst case scenario, I'll do it and let you all know
__________________
"OBie"
CalRocs 2010 #5150
YJ_OVER_SJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 10-14-2004, 11:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 39
Location: San Martin, CA
Posts: 3,265
Don't remove the balls. Just stick in a 5/8" dowel as you turn the worm shaft out of the piston....the dowel will hold the balls in place.
__________________
Eric
Parts for Sale --> D44 shafts, 6 lug rims, air tank
Eric is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2004, 01:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5670
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 1,790
here is one

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/steeringbox.php
Pavemen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2004, 02:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18540
Location: Woodland, CA
Posts: 872
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via AIM to YJ_OVER_SJ
excellent tip Eric. Thanks. I haven't read this one yet but then I've only gone through about 200 Saginaw threads on this board so far.

So the dowel will go in where? and the worm shaft comes out how? and this is while the piston is where?

I'll have the box in SJ next week to do the work. if you have some time, I wouldn't mind someone looking over my shoulder saying "don't touch that", "turn that like this", "be careful dumbass".
__________________
"OBie"
CalRocs 2010 #5150
YJ_OVER_SJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2004, 03:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18540
Location: Woodland, CA
Posts: 872
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via AIM to YJ_OVER_SJ
Thanks pavemen. that has some good information for rebuilding the sector shaft seals and bearings. unfortunately I'm trying to figure out how to remove the worm gear w/out dislodging the little steel balls inside the piston (or find a way to keep the worm gear in the piston while getting it out of the way to port the box?). It's a different part of the box.
__________________
"OBie"
CalRocs 2010 #5150
YJ_OVER_SJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2004, 04:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 39
Location: San Martin, CA
Posts: 3,265
Let me know when you are heading down to SJ and I will help you out.
__________________
Eric
Parts for Sale --> D44 shafts, 6 lug rims, air tank
Eric is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2004, 06:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
]2eDeYe
 
stepfor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Member # 20045
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 448
And then post up after....so the rest of us'll know the tricks

I think I may be diggin into one of these soon
__________________
]2eDeYe
Jeep n stuff...
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
stepfor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2004, 05:36 AM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4755
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 187
This is more for drilling and tapping for hyd. assist but it is helpful.

There is a good write up on Peakempire by Dave Koons (Overtech)

http://www.peakempire.com/new/tech/saginaw_box_tech.htm
__________________
[url]http://peakempire.com./[/url]
90 YJ,4.0 swap,soa,5.13 gears,8.8,dana 44,37 mtr

Last edited by Rodney YJ; 10-15-2004 at 06:14 AM.
Rodney YJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2004, 09:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18540
Location: Woodland, CA
Posts: 872
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via AIM to YJ_OVER_SJ
Thanks Rodney_YJ This is good tech.

Alright guys, I feel a LOT more comfortable about tapping the box. I'll get 'er done next week, and post the results on the board.
__________________
"OBie"
CalRocs 2010 #5150
YJ_OVER_SJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2004, 11:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18540
Location: Woodland, CA
Posts: 872
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via AIM to YJ_OVER_SJ
Okay. I went ahead and did the porting of the box. It actually turned out quite well . tested it out this last weekend.

Thanks again to everyone for posting up links for rebuilding a saginaw box. I actually read through all the links(including spending a lot of time looking at the pictures of porting a saginaw box in the Pirate tech section). One of the best instructions for an example of what I did came from GMULE. Thanks! Here's his link

http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/...owtoshow;id=56

It shows how to port the box without completely taking the box apart. I read through his instructions, then forgot to print them out when it came time to port the box. Sorry, no pictures. I forgot my camera when doing the work but if you follow the pictures of the saginaw box porting location in the pirate tech section, and folllow the instructions in the above link(with my below comments), you should have no problem. I have a few additions/changes(or maybe they're already stated in the instructions, don't know):

1. I didn't have a socket big enough for removing the jam nut(item he was referring to removing with a 2 3/4 wrench) so I used a hammer/punch and channel locks. worked the same way. An item missing is that after you remove the jam nut, how do you get the threaded screw(he calls the end cap) off the box. well that's what the 2 holes are for. You can use some ingenuity and create a tool to make the job easier. I didn't have the time or patience so used the ol' hammer/punch to loosen it and then used something to stick in each hole and pull in oposite directions. it worked. when I put it back together I was having thread problems(rusted) so I found a tool for removing the disc off a 4 1/2" angle grinder. one of the prongs fits in the hole, the other presses against the input shaft. turny-turny-walla.
2. while drilling the holes, if you can find one, use a drill press. trying to drill a straight hole in to a box while it's clamped to a vise below waste height isn't fun or easy
3. use a good tap handle when tapping. I couldn't find a handle large enough to fit my 1/4" NPT tap so I used a wrench/socket. again, not very straight
4. if you follow the method described in the instructions and only remove the rear cylinder(valve? whatever) out of the box rather than taking the box apart, drill slowly and make sure you clean the filings out of the hole as you go along. I used a rag AND a small magnetic pickup tool to get the filings out. I drilled a pilot hole(about 3/16th) in each port before using the larger bit. don't drill the pilot all the way through if you don't have to. Some filings will still get in to the body of the box even with sticking a rag in there to stop them. It only takes one small metal filing to ruin your box so take it slow.
5. dip the end of the rag that you're sticking in the box with PS fluid so the filings will stick to the rag easier. use the magnet frequently, picking up filings, wiping clean, drilling, picking up filings, wiping clean, back and forth.
6. when drilling, I had the box vertical(input shaft end up) while drilling the top hole. I then had the box horizontal(output shaft down) when drilling the bottom hole. just don't have the input shaft end down unless you have your fingers holding the worm gear in place.
7. in the top hole, you have quite a ways to drill but check the depth often and don't push on the bit when you get close to the end. My pilot bit pushed through, bound on the rag that was in there, and broke off. I was just lucky the rag was there or I would have scored the end of the worm gear. For the bottom hole, drill in to the port and then keep drilling till you've made a very slight indentation in the port to be flush with the back wall of the port. This will allow your tap to get a little further.
8. the 1/4" NPT tap I got had too much taper to get good threads very far in to the lower port. I was told that three full threads for contact(with steel, not brass, fittings) is enough but I wanted a few more. I have heard of people buying a second tap that has less taper to get more threads. I've also heard of people grinding the end off a second tap to have the same effect. I didn't go this route. It's up to your comfort level. If I had a second tap, I probably would have liked more thread contact. Just make sure you don't screw the fitting in so far that it plugs the port.
9. when the box is drilled and tapped, while reinserting the rear threaded screw(called the end cap in the link), make sure your rear cylinder matches up to the worm gear. might be in the instructions but here's something I had missed, there's some play between the threaded insert(end cap) and the cylinder. I didn't notice this while taking it out because one, I was pulling up out of the box holding the input shaft and two, I was too worried I'd screw something up. It wasn't until I was having a LOT of trouble getting the damn thing to stay lined up while screwing it back in that I noticed I could push the input shaft/cylinder down about 1/4" or so to seat it in place, and then line up the screw mount, screw it in, and everything stayed in place. No, I didn't ruin any seals but I also didn't try pulling the end cap(screw) off the cylinder.
10. I was told the proper method of screwing down the input shaft. AFTER I already did mine. I was informed to first, pre-load the screw by tightening it down fairly snug, then back it off a little, and "finger" tighten it. Well, since my threads were rusted/buggered up, it was a little difficult for me to figure out the correct method of finger tight. Instead, I screwed it all the way down and then backed it off enough that I felt it wouldn't have any binding while turning. It seams to work but it's only been on one trip and I haven't taken the box apart to see if I'm causing it any trouble. I was also told that I'd know almost right away if I screwed up the box so I guess I did it right.

Okay, I've typed enough for now. I'll edit this post if I think of anything else.
__________________
"OBie"
CalRocs 2010 #5150
YJ_OVER_SJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2004, 02:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
]2eDeYe
 
stepfor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Member # 20045
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 448
Nice work. Thanks
__________________
]2eDeYe
Jeep n stuff...
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
stepfor is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.