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Old 06-17-2005, 12:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Best way to start a diesel after sitting 10 years?

Its a 3.0L five cylinder Mercedes in a Mog. It was running good when it was parked 10 years ago. The hoses and belts are in good shape and still soft. I figure I will change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, and air cleaner. Any other precautions I should know about before I throw in a battery and fire it up?

Last edited by Flat50; 06-17-2005 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 06-17-2005, 12:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd fnd some way of getting oil down into the head, Marvel Mystery Oil works well for this.

Let it sit over night, at the minimum. Hand cycle the crank, add more oil etc.
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Old 06-17-2005, 01:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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any way to prime the oil system without running the engine?
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Old 06-17-2005, 01:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Remove the glowplugs (unless the MB engine has a heated grid and no GPs-I don't know MBs specificaly) and squirt/pour some oil into each cylinder. Keep the plugs out and crank the engine over MANY times to distribute/dissipate the oil, as well as prime the engine's oil pump (and injector pump). Hopefully you can get the oiling system primed to the point where some oil gets to the camshaft bearings and lobes.

That's where people usualy run into problems when starting an engine that's been sitting long enough for all of the oil to have dripped off the cam's lobes. Turning a DRY bumpstick is asking for galling and rapidly flattened lobes.

With a gasser I pull the sparkplugs and disty, squirt oil in the jugs, spin the oil pump for a WHILE with a homemade driver and cordless drill, then spin the engine over (with plugs still out) while still running the drill.

Is that MB diesel OHC? If it is you could remove the valve cover and slather some oil on the cam lobes before turning the engine over at all. If it's OHV you could remove the lifter access cover and squirt oil on the cam through there.

Whatever you do, PLEASE don't use ether...
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Old 06-17-2005, 02:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Friend and I rescued a Frieghtliner out of a field after it had sat for many years (well over ten). Has a 8V92 Detroit in it. All we did was install new batteries, then cranked it up! Damned thing fired up on the first crank. Three years later, it still fires right up, never had any issues with it.

I would say, if you are concerned about the rings sticking, turn it over by hand and see if it sticks. If it sticks, then worry about oil and all that bullshit.
I would just start it up.
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Old 06-17-2005, 05:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can pressurize the oil system with a hudson sprayer (like for pesticides... garden stuff) you have to rig up a hose to thread into the oil gallery, then pump up the handle.

one thing the guys from California just don't understand is what 10 Edmonton winters are like....
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Old 06-17-2005, 05:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 06-17-2005, 07:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I once started a Cummins 4BT that had been sitting for over three years. With just a jump, the engine cranked half a turn and started right up!
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Old 06-17-2005, 11:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRO
one thing the guys from California just don't understand is what 10 Edmonton winters are like....

You should not talk about things you do not know.

If the belts and hoses are still in good condition, those winters have not been that hard on the engine.
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Old 06-18-2005, 12:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm no diesel expert but I've seen people start diesels with ether in cold weather...is this dangerous or harmful?

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Old 06-19-2005, 12:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Depends upon a few things. How much ether they use. Is it the only way the engine will start. Is it a glow plug engine.

Most heavy trucks are equipped with an ether assist start system. They release a small amount of ether into the intake with the push of a button. This is only for use in extreme climates.
If it is a glow plug equipped engine, ether will overheat the glow plugs and melt them. If the engine is equipped with an intake heater ( a common alternative to glow plugs) the ether could combust in the intake manifold.
Lastly, ether used in large doses can damage the engine, melting the pistons. This is mostly a problem with smaller or older engines equipped with aluminum one piece pistons. Newer large bore engines use two piece pistons witha steel crown that can take the abuse of ether pretty well. I have seen guys at work running Cat engines on nothing but ether, for several minutes at a time, controlling the RPM by the flow of ether. Not something I would do, but it does have some diagnostic purposes. If you have a diesel that will not fire up, you can run it on ether to verify if it is mechanically sound.
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Wd40

Alot of the old loggers that I know use WD40 in place of ether.
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
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crack the injector lines (so it will not start) crank till you have oil pressure then tighten the injector lines and start it
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Old 06-19-2005, 09:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Be shure after renewing the fuel filter to exhaust the air out of the fuel lines. Don't know if this 300D has a automatic deairing or a mechanic one.

Is the compression still good, the engine should start.
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Old 06-19-2005, 11:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Drain fuel tank and fill with new fuel.
Change fuel filter.
Remove glow plugs so engine cranks easier.
Squirt some MMO into the cylinders and let sit over night.
Crack the fuel lines at the injectors.
Next day, crank the engine until fuel leaks out line to injector union and all the oil is out of the cylinders.
Crank in bursts so you dont fry the starter.
Tighten fuel lines, install glow plugs.
Should start right up.

Never use ether or starting fluid, bad stuff for a compression ignition engine.
Use WD-40.

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Old 06-19-2005, 04:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the advice. I will let you know how it goes. Should have the unit home this week some time.
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