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Old 06-26-2006, 01:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Front 3/4/5 link suspension pics...Post em.

I have very little clearence and am swapping out my front D44 for a D60.

Will be very tight to do a conventional lVl style? Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2006, 01:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 06-26-2006, 01:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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think harder and figure it out.


dont ahve any pics of the front.. but its identical to the rear, except with a motor inbetween the uppers, and a driveshaft in there somewhere



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Old 06-26-2006, 01:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Because im keepin my truck low, there was no room under it to run links, so I am makin a double Y arm radius arm type of link suspension. It will be locked on the street so it will act as a sway bar also and I can disconnect one leg so it will telescope and allow flex on the trail. Just dont have any pics yet.
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorcitydak
Because im keepin my truck low, there was no room under it to run links, so I am makin a double Y arm radius arm type of link suspension. It will be locked on the street so it will act as a sway bar also and I can disconnect one leg so it will telescope and allow flex on the trail. Just dont have any pics yet.
This sounds interesting.....Post em when you can?

The others posted are great lookin setups...I don't have near that much room? Plus I was told my housing is "later model" and I can't just weld on it with my WF, would need special prep and rod/filler? If I run a 1½" stringer from knuckle to knuckle accross the top of the housing? it will bottom out on my Harmonic balancer at full stuff (About 6")
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I can post up the ones of what I have build so far and you can get an idea of how it will work. Ill get em up when I get home
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96 dakota 44/9 4.56s loc rite front, detroit rear, 3 linked w 14 inch FOA coilovers and Alcan leafs on the rear, Dana 300, 35in MTZs. O ya, and that things got a HEMI!!!
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks Kid.....
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I just took some pics and put em on my cardomain page, still havent figured out how to post up pics. Anyway, they are at the very bottom of the page http://www.cardomain.com/ride/834955/1

Its mostly 2x2 .250 wall, BDS poly bushings, summit machine flex joints welded to 6 inch 1.25 allthread. The short leg (telescoping) is 2x2 with 1.5x1.5 inside of it and there is a 3/4 bolt at the end of that and it is held together with 2 1/2 inch bolts goin thru the bars at opposite directions spaced 1 inch apart. I will have pins in one arm and pull em out so I can flex the axle off road. When locked, it wont flex at all except for what the bushings allow
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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O ya, and those are BTF traction link brackets, a dana 44 and for 35s
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sy,
If you don't have much room for up travel, your easiest, best performing setup is going to be 3 link with a panhard. That way the upper doesn't contact your oil pan b/c it's going next to the engine rather than into the bottom like a converging upper link (at the axle) set up would.

Also, unless you're running full hydro, a dual triangulated 4 link is going to bump steer (at least that's the common concensus from what I've read here anyway). The other major issue with XX suspension is trying to clear an offset front diff's driveline (at least in my case). HP front D60 is your friend here.....not sure what kind of 60 you scored.

If I had it to do over (and couldn't duplicate Barry's fuct'd up front 3 link ), I'd do a 3 link with a panhard. I've only ended up with about 4" of uptravel and could've gotten another inch had I gone with a 3 link.....not only that, but I'd have room for bigger tires to clear my lower links on full lock b/c the links would've been straight instead of angled out for axle location.

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Old 06-27-2006, 07:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SysWillys
The others posted are great lookin setups...I don't have near that much room?
it took me a good 3 weeks sitting there with a cold beer in my hand staring at the front end before i could figure out how to make it work. (and it's still not even close to driveable so did it really work?)

I'm sure you have to have more room than i do. the frame rails on mine are 23" inside to inside. the uppers at the frame end are even with the starter on the 302. most of the oil pan is lbellow the uppers. my axle is in front of the motor though, by about 2" at the end of the pinion.

this is the only crappy shot i have that you can kind of see where they are. for scale, he's 6'0" .
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Old 06-27-2006, 08:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sceep
it took me a good 3 weeks sitting there with a cold beer in my hand staring at the front end before i could figure out how to make it work. (and it's still not even close to driveable so did it really work?)

I'm sure you have to have more room than i do. the frame rails on mine are 23" inside to inside. the uppers at the frame end are even with the starter on the 302. most of the oil pan is lbellow the uppers. my axle is in front of the motor though, by about 2" at the end of the pinion.

this is the only crappy shot i have that you can kind of see where they are. for scale, he's 6'0" .
Definately a tight fight there, but I can't weld to my housing with my own equipment and my housing is also more under the motor. axle CL is about even with the harmonic balancer at ride height. AND the pinion yoke and D shaft would get into the oil pan sump at full stuff if the castor/pinion angle remains consistant throughout the suspension cycle.

I also would like to make it so I can change the oil or remove the starter or ? with out partially dimantalling the the front suspension.

I am using a Chevy housing, Pass drop, SR, short side Dodge inner, long side custom, will be 61" WMS. I'm also still running a steering box so I can't just push the front end out for clearance.

Thanks for all your input. I have an idea but am still grinding my gears on this.
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Old 06-27-2006, 08:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Here's a the best front view I could find with the D44

Its a 3 link with straight lowers and a V on top to the center of the housing. The pinion yoke would rub the V bar if I flexed it just right. Don't have room for this set up cos of the mass of the 60 and the fact that the housing is more centered then the 44 was.
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Old 06-27-2006, 09:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Problem solved..Am moving the axle forward 7 inches to create more clearence throughout. Now I just have to figure out what to do about the steering?? Fix one problem create another.....

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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full hydro... you will thank yourself later
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SysWillys
Problem solved..Am moving the axle forward 7 inches to create more clearence throughout. Now I just have to figure out what to do about the steering?? Fix one problem create another.....

Thanks for the help guys.
I honestly don't think you are fixin anything. Unless u're going full hydro! In which case there is no reason to move the axle forward. Unless u're 106" or less.

Hey anymore pics of that black and orange rig behind you???

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Old 06-28-2006, 07:14 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Easy Rick
I honestly don't think you are fixin anything. Unless u're going full hydro! In which case there is no reason to move the axle forward. Unless u're 106" or less.

Hey anymore pics of that black and orange rig behind you???

Pieces,
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Rick,
By moving the front out I'll be 105". I had a clearence issue with oil pan and the way the rest of the chassis is set up. Steering, front driveshaft, frame, spring mounts etc. This rig is very compact and I would like to keep it that way. Longer wheelbase is nothing but a good thing I know, but now I have to re-design my whole front end outside of the engine compartment.

The Orange and black rig is a sweet comp rig belonging to Todd @ Desert Fab Motorsports here in town. http://www.desertfab.com/

Full hydro is an option but my rig see's pavement at times so I would like to keep it somewhat street legal.
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Old 06-28-2006, 07:19 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Schmozilla
full hydro... you will thank yourself later
Great idea. Actually tried it, hated it at speed, but I had a bad ram. Didn't like how slow it was to turn, Not the ratio, I tried 3 orbital valves, 7 turn, a 2 turn and a 4 turn Lock to lock. I'm gonna test drive some of my friends rigs with it to see? On the other hand, I see pavement occasionally and would like to keep it somewhat street legal?
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Old 06-28-2006, 07:26 AM   #19 (permalink)
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These pics were during building. 10" front stretch, steering box swapped for a ford unit(pitman arm out front). This is with a later model front axle. Had to stick the drivers side bracket with pre-heat and post-heat.


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Old 06-28-2006, 07:41 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Ranger....You have a great set up there, but aren't rthe ford box's slow? Not farmiliar with them? I know the pitman comes out the front though. You also have about a foot more vertical clearence then me. If you notice in the pic above, my limiting strap in the center of the axle is tight (To prevent suspension unload) so my ride height is about 3-4" compressed from that pic.

Also not a real big fan of the 3 link design with one torque link to one side of the axle like you have and like Sean described above.
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:04 AM   #21 (permalink)
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The last pic ranger posted is sorta like the suspension im buildin, except both sides have Y links
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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3-link + panhard F&R

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Old 06-28-2006, 09:51 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I know this 3 link set up is good for space reasons but I'm a little leary of the axle being held on one side of the housing vs. in the middle?

motorcity, Won't you get a bind while twisting/articulating?

Thanks for the pics and ideas
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Old 06-28-2006, 10:19 AM   #24 (permalink)
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here is a couple of the front

(edit) WTF? I cant make my pics show up anymore, only links to them, anyone know whats up?
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Old 06-28-2006, 10:35 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SysWillys
motorcity, Won't you get a bind while twisting/articulating?
Nope, thats why I can disconnect one of the upper legs and it will telescope allowing great flex. If you look closely at the pic I have of it, you can probabily see what I did.
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