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Old 09-24-2006, 03:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exoskeleton build suggestions.

Well, once I get my axles ordered, the build will be down for the 2 months it takes to get the housings, so I may make the exo sooner than planned. Here's my idea.

The blue bars will be openable, obviously. I don't know how to explain the latching idea here, but it will work. They're low on the door, because my other doors will get cut that low, too. the yellow pipes in the bed will be exhaust and intake. Please keep in mind this is rough (obviously) and if it looks a little angled where it should be straight, it's probably meant to be straight. I'm not going for complete elimination of body damage, just anything that could incapacitate the vehicle/injure occupants. I don't want miles of tubing on it. Any suggestions/ideas from people that have done this? What size tubing would you recommend? .120 1.5 or 1.75? I don't mind if a tube bends and it has to be replaced, as long as it does it's job.

Oh, and the front of the exo will bolt onto the bumper/brushguard that's not showin in the pic.
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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WAY too much tube
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Ok, as in you would eliminate what? I'm asking for constructive comments.
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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just protect the cab. thats all thats worth saving.
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would agree, but this will be my daily driver (I have the titan if this gets screwed, so no biggie), plus after dumping $8000 or so into this sas, I won't be able to do anymore major mods after this. I maybe should have stated this earlier, but my goal is to make this last for 4-5 years, at which point it'll probably get stripped and the complete drivetrain will go in a buggy. However, if there are tubes ppl think I can safely eliminate, or ones I need to add to keep it structural, I'll do that. I also need an idea on tubing size. Also, part of the reason the rear is the way it is, is because I'll be building a crude type of can-back for it.
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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8,000 for a SAS??? why?
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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$8000 seems a little high for a SAS unless you are buying some high dollar axles.

Iwould suggest selling the bed while it's still straight and building a flat bed in it's place. Integrate the flatbed into the exo. You'll save a little weight, gain a bunch of rearward visibility and clearance, and the exo will be stronger as a whole.
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You know cw, you really might be right...I would build a flat bed with the "sides" like...allpro's? kit. hmm... As for the $8,000, that's front and rear diamond housings, all the 60/9" components, all alloy axles, strange third members, arb lockers, dual cases with low range in one case, steering, suspension, sliders, bumpers, beadlocks, tires, etc. Now, back to contemplating the flat bed thing...
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Have you looked at other exo cages, there is not the need for that much tube. The cage isn't meant to keep your paint from being scratched but to save your life and in the case of an exocage, the windshield too.

More pics at http://www.trailbusters4x4.org/index...k%20Zierenberg

This cage didn't bend or deform at all after being rolled onto the roof.
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm not concerned about paint, however, my doors still have to be able to work. I can probably elminate and/or use some pretty light tubing in places that need support for the can-back, though.
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Old 09-24-2006, 09:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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take the doors off or make tube doors when you wheel
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Old 09-24-2006, 09:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numtel
Have you looked at other exo cages, there is not the need for that much tube. The cage isn't meant to keep your paint from being scratched but to save your life and in the case of an exocage, the windshield too.

More pics at http://www.trailbusters4x4.org/index...k%20Zierenberg

This cage didn't bend or deform at all after being rolled onto the roof.
is that a harpoon platform out front?
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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An exocage is SUPPOSED to do whatever the FAWKIN' HELL the owner of the truck wants it to do. Mine, will prevent as much body damage as possible, and eventually will tie into an interior cage for structure (that whole saving my life thing). Yours, on the otherhand, does whatever the hell you want it to do.

I personally say that you need to exo the cab pretty good, because you're inside it. Plus a cab is pretty hard to replace. Then run a bar or two to your front bumper that will protect the fenders and tie into the cab exo. Same for the bed. done.
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissancrawler
I'm not concerned about paint, however, my doors still have to be able to work. I can probably elminate and/or use some pretty light tubing in places that need support for the can-back, though.
You seem to be alot like me. You need a set of wheeling doors, and a set of DD'ing doors. I plan to buy a set from a wrecked truck sometime down the road to make 1/2 doors out of.

My whole plan is to have a "road mode" with the full doors, power windows, subs/amp, cheap 37's, etc. And a "trail mode" with the 1/2 doors, no door windows, removed subs/amp, not-so-cheap 39.5's etc.

But I'm weird like that...
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I totally agree, that's why I said my other doors will be cut down to the body line, which is why those bars are that low. I'll be running 38x12.50 sx's or 39.5 Iroks on the trail, and 35" xterrains on the road. I guess I'll probably eliminate the bars at all, if the wheeling doors get trashed, I'll just get more junkyard ones.
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Old 09-25-2006, 05:19 AM   #16 (permalink)
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whats being done diffrent...

diagonals going oppisite the ones already on the fender areas..and TWIN tubes for the center post and plated between the 2..(keep bendin the dang things!!!)...I would really support yer middle pillar right behind the door...either double tubes or square tubing..somethin...

and window bars...they've saved the windshield too many times to count since it was done in june...

when it was done..I've since added the snorkle and paint.. www.bbpfab.com did it..and I think its awsome..exactly what I wanted..with a little builder flair thrown in for fun!!..(its mosly body protection..and rollover protection for me and my 3yr old daughter that HAS to go wheelin with dad..cant leave her at home..she gets PISSED!!...16point..200ft 1.5 .120 and .090)
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:38 AM   #17 (permalink)
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ideas for ya.. this was an xtracab i did awhile back. pre-flatbed.





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Old 09-25-2006, 08:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I second the flat bed.

Two main tubes for the cab.

X behind the cab.

I went with tube clamps for my door bars. I take them off when I have doors on.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:08 AM   #19 (permalink)
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This is one I built for a buddy. It has mog axles under it.
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IT'S NOT VERY BIG AROUND, BUT IT SURE IS SHORT!
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:19 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Is that truck linked up front held up by leaf springs? Looks like it has shackles on the front and rear
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:24 AM   #21 (permalink)
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It is on leaf springs. The shackle you see is for the anti wrap/traction bar. There is one for the front and rear axle.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:30 AM   #22 (permalink)
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that taco exo was pulled off real clean.. I like it.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:56 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
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that taco exo was pulled off real clean.. I like it.
x2 very nice...
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:07 PM   #24 (permalink)
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How did you weld/paint/coat it? Is it removable so you could finish all that?
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I'm a big fan of the 'yota cages. I think I'll do mine quite close to that. I'll build a set of low skinned trail doors supported by tube, and call that good. I was going to be doing a bed bob anyway, so the flatbed is very tempting. Keep posting up, I'm getting better ideas!
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