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Old 09-28-2007, 01:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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140 amp alt. wiring

Ive read till Im blue in the face and I think I am more confused now. Putting 140 amp alt on 99 5.7 vortec. 3 wires that come off plug (larger red one, black and brown) also there is a terminal post on back of alt. WHAT GOES TO WHAT? For everything to be on the up and up. thanks
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Isnt the large red one the field wire, the black one is groung, the brown is computer/guage and the post on the back the charge wire to the batt?
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hope this helps, make sure you run at least a 6 gauge wire from your battery to the Alt or you'll melt the wire

Yahoo search: CS series alternator wiring
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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again thanks.
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74' Stretched(107") 60/14 - 42" Pit Bull Rockers - Coils - 5.7 Vortec - 700R - Atlas 4.3

06 Laramie 3500 MegaCab Dually 4x4, 48RE, Edge Juice w/Attitude, AFE Cold Air Intake, Full Flow Exhaust
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Old 09-28-2007, 04:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Towner View Post
hope this helps, make sure you run at least a 6 gauge wire from your battery to the Alt or you'll melt the wire

Yahoo search: CS series alternator wiring

So, do you connect either / or on the ignition fused, and ignition fused with light, or both?
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Old 09-28-2007, 05:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Search on "10si" and you'll find this, for one:

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

Although you didn't say what kind of alternator, the 10si is one of the most available alternators out there.

As for the proper wire for the main battery connection:

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html

Hope this helps.

Al

Last edited by Albin; 09-28-2007 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 09-28-2007, 07:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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hook up the l wire to your idit light wire and the power wire to the stud on the back and that should do it. just make sure you have a good light bulb, if it goes does the alt.
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Old 10-02-2007, 12:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Careful not to make this confusing. Different alternators have different regulators in them. With some of them the "L" circuit needs an LED light, not a strong light circuit as found on most older vehicles.

So you are better off to only hook up to the "I" terminal, with straight ignition power. Meaning 12volts when the key is turned into the run position, and nothing when the key is in the off position. The "I" terminal is labelled as "F" in the above diagram, and on the regulator itself as an I above the F. There are regulators with this case that have functioning F terminals, but they are mostly in cars.

No not hook up the S terminal. If you dont use it the regulator will default to sensing internally which is more accurate. The "S" ciruitry inside the regulator, or the wire leading to it and screw up the voltage and cause the alternator to over charge. So dont use it as it is just an added place for a problem.

Hope that all makes sense. There are dozens of different theories on this, but keyed on/off 12volt power to the "I/F" terminal is what the guy who designed the regulator thinks is the best way to do it. (I made a phone call before responding, LOL)
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Careful not to make this confusing. Different alternators have different regulators in them. With some of them the "L" circuit needs an LED light, not a strong light circuit as found on most older vehicles.

So you are better off to only hook up to the "I" terminal, with straight ignition power. Meaning 12volts when the key is turned into the run position, and nothing when the key is in the off position. The "I" terminal is labelled as "F" in the above diagram, and on the regulator itself as an I above the F. There are regulators with this case that have functioning F terminals, but they are mostly in cars.

No not hook up the S terminal. If you dont use it the regulator will default to sensing internally which is more accurate. The "S" ciruitry inside the regulator, or the wire leading to it and screw up the voltage and cause the alternator to over charge. So dont use it as it is just an added place for a problem.

Hope that all makes sense. There are dozens of different theories on this, but keyed on/off 12volt power to the "I/F" terminal is what the guy who designed the regulator thinks is the best way to do it. (I made a phone call before responding, LOL)
Got it all hooked up before your post and is charging 14.5 or so depending on what all fans are on. Right now I have the F going through small light. (It isn't on ever) S is running over to the post on back of alternator with a 4ga. wire then running to battery. L terminal on plug is unused at this time. Have driven prolly total of one hour. Ok to run like this or should I change it? Brand of Alternator is Ultima from Oreillys.
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Old 10-04-2007, 04:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well if it is working you should be ok if using the small light. Though this makes no sense as the I/F terminal should leave it on all the time, but might not. I will have to check it sometime. The main reason for using the I instead of the L is most lights (pre '86) have too much current going through them, and it is hard on some OE and aftermarket regulators. Not all, just some. So if you have the LED light instead of the heavier bulb, all should be fine. No matter which way you hooked it up.
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