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Old 04-09-2008, 08:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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GM Gen III exhaust manifolds

I haven't been around GM stuff too much and not really much at all around Gen III. I ended up with a 02 GM 6.0 for my buggy project from a wrecked doner 2500 Chevy truck last year around this time.

I stuck it on my engine stand for storage and so I could work on it a little at a time. The other day fustin around pulling the wiring harness I noticed the driver side rear exhaust manifold bolt head missing/broke off. Didn't really think much about it because the engine ran out great before being pulled. I thought maybe it broke off during the crash with the exhaust system whipping about.

Yesterday while in a scrap/junk yard the owner showed me a 6.0 they pulled from a van. He said the passenger side had a rear exhaust valve burnt. Looking at the manifold I noticed the rear bolt head missing/broke off similar to mine. He thought someone over torqued it and broke it off causing a major exhaust leak and in turn burning the valve.

Is this something common on Gen III engines?

I'm looking at purchasing and installing a set of block hugger headers and would like to know if some brands or more prone to this problem or not. Anyone else seen this or is this just a fluke? I know - just keep an eye on it and fix as needed. Might be something for someone else to look for when seeking about a Gen III engine though.

Anyone using the Sanders brand block hugger headers? The collectors are slightly off center according to their info giving more room for the motor mount access. But I don't know if this is common on others like Hookers - no one else states this.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I've never heard of it. I can't see an exhaust leak thats several inches away causing a burnt valve, there should still be plenty of back preasure.

The hookers colector is offset to the rear. I've used them twice, for what they cost they suck.

I'm using a set of these now, they are centered, and will require angleing the motor mounts. If I had bushings here, it would be mounted. Overall width is about the same as the hookers.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/4614...t-Headers.html


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Old 04-09-2008, 08:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm plumbing my 5.3 now, but that bolt wasn't broken off. I'm also using the Sanderson header that I think you're talking about, but again, haven't fired it up yet.
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:50 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I used sanderson headers on a 5.3. They worked pretty good but are spendy. They clear my engine mounts by an inch and a half.

Last edited by spurren2; 04-09-2008 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've never heard of it. I can't see an exhaust leak thats several inches away causing a burnt valve, there should still be plenty of back preasure.
Not so much while running IMO as it is once you shut the engine down. Cold air can rush in easier cooling the exhaust valve too fast warping it - then it's down hill from there. I don't think this is something that happens really fast but over time can cause problems.

On the van engine I saw at the JY you could clearly see the gasket was blown out and had turned the head blackish in that area. The owner said it was a runner when they pulled it but the cylinder where the exhaust leak was at was dead.

I was always told never to make open headers too short or this could be a problem as well - that was years ago too - 70's... damm I'm getting old.

I looked at those headers too but was worried about working around them for the motor mount. They really suck into the block though

Is there a difference on exhaust port size from the LS1 5.7 to the 6.0?
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Last edited by Landslide; 04-09-2008 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 04-10-2008, 04:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I looked at those headers too but was worried about working around them for the motor mount. They really suck into the block though

Is there a difference on exhaust port size from the LS1 5.7 to the 6.0?
They are not a bad (MM wise) as they look in the picture, I'll post agin once it's mounted.


No.
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Why not the shorty headers for the application the engine came from? They are the same exact length as the factory manifolds and a whole lot cheaper than most block huggers. Unless the factory stuff won't work.

I ran the Summit brand (Pacesetter) headers on a 5.3 for 2 years before I sold the truck with absolutley no issues, except the gaskets that come with them sucked balls.
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Old 04-10-2008, 06:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Gen-III motors used to have some cooling problems with #7 as it ran lean. I am not sure when that was corrected, but that problem is clearly yesterday's news.

With regard to headers, I used the AA Slick Fit headers and they were good for the money.
I added flanges, the 02 bungs and had them coated.


In the process of fabbing the crossover to run a single exhaust. (There is also a bung for a wide-band 02) It goes around the front of the (Rear sump) truck pan. The Crossover is at 2.5" now, but will get cut off past the merge and go to a 3" pipe. Once finished, it too will be coated


Good luck!
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Last edited by THachiya; 04-10-2008 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 04-10-2008, 06:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Why not the shorty headers for the application the engine came from? They are the same exact length as the factory manifolds and a whole lot cheaper than most block huggers. Unless the factory stuff won't work.

I ran the Summit brand (Pacesetter) headers on a 5.3 for 2 years before I sold the truck with absolutley no issues, except the gaskets that come with them sucked balls.

Because the collectors are wide, and generally not in a good spot to use them in a buggy. Even in the chassis I have pictured, which is one of the widest I have built, stock manifolds won't even begin to fit because where the collectors are.
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Old 04-10-2008, 06:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Is there a difference on exhaust port size from the LS1 5.7 to the 6.0?
Nope!
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Old 04-10-2008, 07:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i have the SAME one broken on my 6.0


drivers side rear exaust port, rear bolt

havent gotten it out yet.... well havent tried really
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You liked the AA slick fits huh? I laughed when I pulled them from the box, I want to send them back. The merge collector is a joke, and the tubes are a puny 1.5". Might as well stick a cork in the exhaust pipe.
Anyone want to buy a set for 250?
I was looking at a set from Dougs. Part num d312.
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I had an 00 6.0 2500 that I was useing as a tow rig for a few years. I was changing the oil once and noticed the drivers rear bolt broke off... the noticed 3 total on that bank were missing....they were a bitch to get out in the truck... after that I check 3 friends truck some 5.3 and 2 of the 3 were missing the rear bolts as well.After replacing them I towed another 10k and never had any more trouble.
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I was looking at a set from Dougs. Part num d312.
That's a pretty good menu they post up on their headers, seems hard to find info like that printed out on other brands, i.e. hookers.

Looks like a pretty fair price in comparison as well.

I'm going to a huge ass swap meet here in a couple weeks (around 1000 sellers) I might see what's offered there. I don't really like buying new crap from people at these cause if there is an issue with it - too bad.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hijack...are those studs in the bellhousing stock?
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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My LQ9 had a broken driverside #1 cylinder bolt snapped when I got it. I went with longtubes cause that's where the LS motors wake up.
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:21 AM   #17 (permalink)
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My LQ9 had a broken driverside #1 cylinder bolt snapped when I got it. I went with longtubes cause that's where the LS motors wake up.
X2 on long tube headers. Everything I have read says the same. What brand/application are you running?
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:56 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Hijack...are those studs in the bellhousing stock?
Yes. It's an '06 LQ9 from an Escalade

Hijack Off
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:01 AM   #19 (permalink)
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You liked the AA slick fits huh? I laughed when I pulled them from the box, I want to send them back. The merge collector is a joke, and the tubes are a puny 1.5". Might as well stick a cork in the exhaust pipe.
Anyone want to buy a set for 250?
I was looking at a set from Dougs. Part num d312.
If I were going mud racing, I would want the bigger tubes, but the 1.58" primaries are what the doctor ordered for low end torque.

PS,
AA will let you send them back if you have a problem with 'em.

Good luck.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:14 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I just bought a LS1 and I'm planning to use 1 3/4" exhaust flanges from speedway motors http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6766...ge-Plates.html and then a weld together header kit from heartthrob http://www.heartthrobexhaustinc.com/...cessories.html (scroll down to the bottom) This way I will get long tube headers and they will fit exactly how I want with my application, as I have alot of things I have to work around
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:33 AM   #21 (permalink)
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My LQ9 had a broken driverside #1 cylinder bolt snapped when I got it. I went with longtubes cause that's where the LS motors wake up.
Which ones did you go with and how do they fit around a 4 link suspension? (assuming that's what you have)
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:46 AM   #22 (permalink)
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My tired old '00 6.0 had 2 broken exhaust bolts as well...




The heads were still in the manifolds...but were broken off in the block.

(the 2000's had iron heads)

I too would like to hear more about the long tube headers...
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Old 04-12-2008, 01:00 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Motor mounts and links in. Still have to add a piece going under the oilpan to conect each side.






All the plug wires fit too. At least 2 hit on each side with the hedman block huggers.
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Last edited by rock mafia; 04-12-2008 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 04-12-2008, 06:23 AM   #24 (permalink)
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rock mafia that look

I'm curious what a set of long tubes would look like and how bad they would interfere with the 4 links suspension. Also if there was a way to work around them.

I think the block hugers would have a heat advantage away from the floor board area after looking at them again.
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Old 04-12-2008, 07:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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All the plug wires fit too. At least 2 hit on each side with the hooker block huggers.

*****EDIT***** Hedman block huggers don't clear all the plug wire, never tried hookers.
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