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Old 05-26-2011, 03:37 AM   #1076 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertoy View Post
Have you considered gusseting this area JR? I've seen a few rigs crack here.
My car broke there as well
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Old 05-26-2011, 05:38 AM   #1077 (permalink)
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My car broke there as well
Well hell there you have it. If your shit broke there I doubt this one will even make it out of the garage before cracking
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Old 05-26-2011, 05:53 AM   #1078 (permalink)
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Could that be the difference in front engine vs rear engine with it cracking. if that area is constantly being led into rocks as opposed to being drug over rocks I could see the former getting more punishment. Mine is very similiar in the rear and its been fine for 3 years now.
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Old 05-26-2011, 06:12 AM   #1079 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOUG38S View Post
Could that be the difference in front engine vs rear engine with it cracking. if that area is constantly being led into rocks as opposed to being drug over rocks I could see the former getting more punishment. Mine is very similiar in the rear and its been fine for 3 years now.
I was thinking the same thing. The force of hitting something at that area in a rear engine application is very different. With a front engine you would be hitting it head on.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:32 PM   #1080 (permalink)
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The pictures posted of the Campbell class one car (rear engine) also show a similar non gusseted configuration. That said their configuration is such that the tube under the engine is continous up to the chassis with a bend and then a cross tube rather than a continuous bent piece under the engine with two seperate "uprights".

I was going to say going to a smaller crank pulley may have unintended consqeuences but it sounds like Howe has even thought of that and feels its actaully a benefit for the water pump as well. I wonder what if any effect it might have on the alternator. Since it's output has to be regulated down anyway its probably fine.

I was looking over the single seat KOH Campbell IFS car and they are running the high pressure line from the PS pump to what looks like an external regulator and one line from that goes to the rack up front and the other line bypasses back to the reservoir. this was the very first car I've seen that on and I wonder if that helps the pump live at sustained high RPMs as well. Is that component something Howe recommended that you run JR?
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Old 05-26-2011, 04:13 PM   #1081 (permalink)
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I was looking over the single seat KOH Campbell IFS car and they are running the high pressure line from the PS pump to what looks like an external regulator and one line from that goes to the rack up front and the other line bypasses back to the reservoir. this was the very first car I've seen that on and I wonder if that helps the pump live at sustained high RPMs as well. Is that component something Howe recommended that you run JR?
Yes, Howe recommended a relief bypass valve.
You can see it in this pic.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:35 PM   #1082 (permalink)
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Jeff didn't tell me about the relief valve

but i guess i wont need it. this is the ati dampner i got in the mail today for my dry sump set up. it has integrated dribe for the peterson dry sump pump

it has a smaller serpintine belt pully measuring only 4" OD. i wonder if this will turn my water pump and powersteering pump too slow?
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:38 PM   #1083 (permalink)
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better pic
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:14 PM   #1084 (permalink)
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If it's not too much trouble, could you provide a photo of the bolt you used to secure the UHMW? Is the head tapered down to the shank diameter? Just trying to picture the product as I'm going to redo the belly skids on my buggy.

Thank you
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:12 PM   #1085 (permalink)
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^ Sure, here's what we used.
It uses a #4 philips head. IMO, I think it's easier to remove a bunged up philips head screw than a bunged up socket cap screw.

We also used one of these drill tip countersink bits to facilitate the drilling process.
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:28 PM   #1086 (permalink)
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Thank you JR.

These are what I used before and was really happy w/ them. I like being able to use an allen wrench on the head while torquing down the locknut. I used a countersinking bit and pulled the bolt into the UHMW about 1/16" or so to keep it safe for a bit longer

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=chvz74


Side note:The fit and finish on this rig is outstanding!

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Old 05-27-2011, 11:32 PM   #1087 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laproscopic View Post
Jeff didn't tell me about the relief valve

but i guess i wont need it. this is the ati dampner i got in the mail today for my dry sump set up. it has integrated drive for the peterson dry sump pump

it has a smaller serpintine belt pully measuring only 4" OD. i wonder if this will turn my water pump and powersteering pump too slow?
Are you going to run the main drive belt off that 4" pulley, or is there another pulley that bolts to the HB? 4 inches seems a bit small, but maybe it will work.

Yeah, Howe didn't mention anything about the relief valve until I mentioned using a check valve (like what's on my Bronco).
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:40 PM   #1088 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TQJ CJ5 View Post
Thank you JR.

These are what I used before and was really happy w/ them. I like being able to use an allen wrench on the head while torquing down the locknut

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=chvz74


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You did what I tried to do...paste the link to the exact item. For some reason, McM won't let you do that, it just comes up as the general selection of items.
I ended up just using a screen capture.

Socket head cap screws (allen bolts) work fine but when they get mucked up from rocks, it's difficult to get a wrench into them. Where as with a banged up philips head, it seems a straight blade screw driver can always be hammered in, in part because the philips head is a softer material.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:39 AM   #1089 (permalink)
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Socket head cap screws (allen bolts) work fine but when they get mucked up from rocks, it's difficult to get a wrench into them.
We use the harder 1/2" socket caps and we scrape loads of rock non-stop. They usually hold quite well, but if they do get crushed in a bit, we hammer in the next allen size down and we're done. We've never had a single one we couldn't remove pretty easily over the many years we've used them.

FYI, because the UHMW can get stretched and/or mangled a bit...later on it may be a bit more difficult to line up the bolts. As I have quite a few of the nuts for the allens "captured" or welded to the chassis in hard to reach spots, re-aligning the blts can be a nightmare. Nowadays, I buy the bolts an inch longer and sand the threads off the first 1/2 of threads so I can "pilot" them into place easier. Works like a charm for our needs there.

Last edited by RedBullJeep; 05-28-2011 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:53 AM   #1090 (permalink)
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Nowadays, I buy the bolts an inch longer and sand the threads off the first 1/2 of threads so I can "pilot" them into place easier. Works like a charm for our needs there.
that there is a good idea funny how simple things can be so helpful
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Old 05-30-2011, 05:09 AM   #1091 (permalink)
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Some info

Quote:
the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver.
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:37 AM   #1092 (permalink)
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Some info
Can't find and sources to link to or reference, but phillips screwdrivers were designed to slip out of the screw-head slot as a way to limit the amount of torque that could be applied to a fastener.
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:48 AM   #1093 (permalink)
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Got the third member in. It has the mods done to hopefully make it survive including adding a load bolt and polishing the gears.

Since the carrier is aluminum, I made a skid for it. To keep the strength to weight ratio in check it was made out of .125" sheet metal and added gussets.

How do I convert the goofy ARB fitting to a -3an fitting?
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:24 PM   #1094 (permalink)
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There's a special fitting made for that. Cant remember what the threads and types are but I got a couple of them through Independent4x a while back.
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:36 PM   #1095 (permalink)
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..FYI, because the UHMW can get stretched and/or mangled a bit...later on it may be a bit more difficult to line up the bolts. As I have quite a few of the nuts for the allens "captured" or welded to the chassis in hard to reach spots, re-aligning the blts can be a nightmare. Nowadays, I buy the bolts an inch longer and sand the threads off the first 1/2 of threads so I can "pilot" them into place easier. Works like a charm for our needs there.
That sounds like a good idea. Floating nut plates also help with aligning panels. They are also crimped to keep the screw from backing off.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...roduct=MS21059
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:37 PM   #1096 (permalink)
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Russell makes (or made) arb to 3an fittings.
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:57 PM   #1097 (permalink)
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Thanks.
This thing is going together now. I snapped a pic of the hard lines one more time.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:13 PM   #1098 (permalink)
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OK, how does thing work? I mean, how do I make sure the injector wires are plugged in the correct order? Four of the connectors have green/pink wires and four have blue/pink wires.
It's a universal harness.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:18 PM   #1099 (permalink)
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Could be for a batch system, fires left bank, then right, then left, etc. That's how mine operates (Accel DFI). But I don't think that the LS-7 (I think that's what you have) works that way.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:19 PM   #1100 (permalink)
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Russell makes (or made) arb to 3an fittings.
Yup, comes with the stainless hose too.
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