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info on Ford Super Duty Dana 60 axle

1M views 4K replies 399 participants last post by  RANGERROD 
#1 ·
I may get flamed on this, only if I search wrong way somehow?

I am gonna to build hybrid axle so I a bought 06' Super duty Dana 60 SRW hub assembly (inner c, knuckles, bearings, etc etc, no tube or pumpkin)

This came out to be challenging for me as there's lack of info on these axles :(

One thing I found out right away that the tube of the 06' D60 came out to be 3.75" in diameter with .5" thick wall, which are a bit larger than the older D60's (3.125" diameter)

I as well not sure what aftermarket knuckles I can get for them so I dont need to have some machine shop to do some hell work on to figure out a strong high steer arms to be made for these knuckles.

I am not sure but I believe the D60 outer stub shafts that I have are 35 splines instead of the 30 splines which the older Super Duty have (claimed by the D60 bible)

I really need to find out what options I have for the knuckles and what year the knuckles will interchange with the newer D60 (as mine's a 06') inner C's ball joints. I will need to redrill the hub bearings and rotors for the standard 8x6.5 bolt pattern. I found out that spidertrax do sell them, but they are going close to $400 a pop and said are from F.450 so I dont know if that will work on what I have (right now I prefer use what I have by redrill them as I dont want to spend $800 on just some bling unit bearings!):barf:

This may be dumb, but is it possible for me to redrill the hubs/rotors myself? the hard part would be drill RIGHT place! :laughing:

keep in mind this is not all about me, could be some helpful info for other wheelers/SD owners, carry on! :flipoff2:
 
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#2 ·
Your not searching hard enough. Look specifically in the Ford area and here in General 4x4.

But heres what I can tell you....
Your correct on all the info you have posted. Yes, the stubs should be 35 spline and if not they are easy to convert.

Check out Branik Motorsports. Theres a lot of options but this seems to be the cheapest by far. Almost 1/2 of what spidertrax wants. They have F450 UBH's machined to 8x6.5 pattern (or any pattern) for a REAL good price. The F450 unit bearing hub is the one you want. It guarantee's the outer stub is 35 spline. Other Super duty BJ 60's are 30 spline and depending on choice, this is how we convert to 35 spline. And yes that means the F350 30 spline unit and the F450 35 spline unit are interchangable. Then just simply make your choice of drive flanges or leave the manual hubs.

As for high steer, again theres a lot of options. Theres several comapines that make hi steer knuckles. And yes, again the F350 and F450 knuckles will interchange.

However rather that replaceing the knuckle/s, many are choosing the mill the passenger knuckle and set it up similar to a 44 hi steer. There's acctuatlly a good thread going here somewhere on it. Search for it.

I myself opted for OffRoad Unlimited's knuckle for the passenger side for it was well priced and exactly what I wanted.

As for redrilling the hubs yourself, I suppose that all depends on your skills son. :flipoff2: No, if you gonna tackle it with a hand drill and a sharpie you better leave it alone. However if you've got the right tools to do it precise as chit, do it.
 
#3 ·
I will look into these sections more for some info that I am after!

I believe you meant this for the high steer part http://www.offroadunlimited.com/orustore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=2035&idproduct=8266

however mine's a 06' so it seemly sound like this package wont work then? also it seem that it only raises the drag link higher, but the tie rod remains in stock location, which defeat my goal, i want to raise the drag link mount on the passenger side knuckle AND crossover from there to the driver side knuckle.

I looked this up on branik motorsport, definately a place I would go, as I got referred to this shop before so why not.

scroll down, will see this unit bearing thats has been modified for less than $300 (still lot though)

http://www.branikmotorsports.com/PRODUCTS/products3.html

I may prefer to have a shop to redrill the rotors/units or just buy these unit bearings.

the biggest question, can 04 and down knuckles fit the 05+ ball joint inner C's? because as it seem I only can find the 04 and down parts and next to nothing for 05 and up

thank for your reply btw :D
 
#4 ·
Super 60 Ring Gear Sources besides Ford?

Does anyone have any info on sources to obtain the bigger 10" Dana 60 ring and pinions used in the later Super Dutys? I hear they swap into earlier housings. I am curious if the OP has the Super 60 package. Not much info on it out there on the web. Good luck on your axle.
 
#10 ·
Does anyone have any info on sources to obtain the bigger 10" Dana 60 ring and pinions used in the later Super Dutys? I hear they swap into earlier housings. I am curious if the OP has the Super 60 package. Not much info on it out there on the web. Good luck on your axle.
Is it safe to assume aftermarket 9.75" gears will fit the Super 60 housing?
 
#5 · (Edited)
The 05+ SD 60's have different knuckles between the F-250/350 and the F-450/550 as the 450/550 and "Wide Track" F-350 DRW trucks use a 1550 U-joint and the 250/350 use a 1480.

Things like unit bearings, knuckles, shafts, locking hubs etc. do not interchange between the 99-04 axles and the 05+ axles. All the 05+ axles are 35 spline on the outers as well.

The "Super 60" is also a F-450/550 and "Wide Track" F-350 DRW truck axle only to the best of my knowledge.
 
#7 ·
Don't know for sure on the stubs but I also would not want to say the shaft profile for seals etc. is the same even if they were the same length. I have to change the inner seals on the 06 beater in the next ouple of months and will grab some measurements when I do if you still need them.
 
#13 ·
Bringing an old thread up now that these axles are more available.


How would the knuckles/Cs of the 05+ super dutys compare to: (in order of generally regarded strength)

I. Aftermarket Kingpin 60 (Reid/Crane/etc)

II. Stock Chevy Kingpin 60

III. Stock Ford Kingpin 60


I'm picking up a set of 07 Super Duty axles that will most likely be used in a "bouncer" style buggy. Just wondering how the knuckles/Cs would hold up to air time and beatdowns.
 
#14 ·
In short.....find a broken BJ knuckle.


To every 1 balljoint 60 knuckle failure you can find, you'll find 1,000 cracked or broken KP knuckles.

The knuckles on my 02' BJ 60 make KP knuckles look like 44 knuckles. I am yet to find a single failure of my type of knuckle. The 05'+ knucks are even bigger. I cant offer any conclusive facts but I SERIOUSLY doubt you'll break one.
 
#15 ·
On the Ram & Superduty balljoint axles, you really don't have to worry about the knuckles breaking. The balljoints and unitbearings fail long before the knuckle does, otherwise we would be making balljoint 60 knuckles.

We wouldn't have designed a JK knuckle except for the fact that we've seen several instances of broken knuckles. As weak as the JK balljoints are (hence the upgraded ones from Dynatrac & Poly Performance) the knuckles still break on those. But the weak link on the balljoint Dana 60 axles is not the knuckles.
 
#28 ·
The aftermarket has been a little slow to catch up. No high steer available that I know of. I had a buddy mill my passenger knuckle and he made me a high steer arm. Also you can't run a straight tie rod if you attach it to the knuckle stock steering arms (above or below)- the diff is in the way. Only one company makes flanges and they're twice the price of "normal" 60 flanges. There's only like 1" of axle tube on the drivers side which means that unless you use the stock radius arm mounts cast into the diff, that you have to cut off the huge ass mounts and weld a bracket to the cast iron. I did it and have been DD'ing it for over a year, but it made me nervous as shit because I had never welded to cast. Also having the pumpkin so far to the drivers side can make packaging difficult with the front driveshaft. My driveshaft sits about 1/2" from the lower link on that side. I'm running the axle under an 01 chevy 1500. Anything with a narrower frame and the shaft may get into the frame at full bump.

I do love the beefiness though.
could it be narrowed like the other dana 60s? saying this because of the cast piece of steel in the driver side next to the pumpkin
See above. There is a little piece of axle tube on that side, so you could retube it. To narrow one, I would just take it all out of the passenger side. Then you can use a stock driver side shaft, and the pumpkin would be more centered.
 
#20 ·
dunno, they fetch 1000-1100 for a complete 05-up takeout at the yard, but , considering the inherient stregnth of the overall unit, it is a bargain. who cares about the wheel pattern anyways, any wheel i want i can get in metric pattern.. stay tuned for 05-up hi-steer stuff btw...
 
#24 ·
One thing that may help those of you thinking of building these axles...a cheaper alternative to drilling the unit bearing hubs & rotors to 8-on-6.5 is to double-drill your wheels instead. I'm using a '02 D60 that's got 8-on-170 for my front SAS but I've got an older D60 rear that's 8-on-6.5. I'm having my wheels double-drilled for $20/ea., which is way cheaper than drilling out the hubs/rotors. Not to mention when those components wear out or fail, I won't have to re-drill the replacement parts.
 
#30 ·
Another option for these axles is use the 92-97 Ford Ball Joint knuckles and you will get rid of the unit bearings and have the 8x6.5 bolt pattern. We have converted 3 axles so far using the knuckles out from those years.

Another option bolt pattern wise, Currie is redrilling the unit bearings and rotors on these to 8x6.5 pattern. I don't know the cost as we haven't had one done as of yet but a customer was telling me about it.

If you are content with unit bearings, ORU makes a high steer knuckle for the Super Duty axles that goes for $259.00. Most of the unit bearing failures are from high speed, dedicated trail rigs usually don't have those issues. The only people who will suffer with the unit bearings will be the rigs that pull double duty between trail and daily driving.

Derek
 
#31 ·
I thought you could only use the 92-97 knuckles on the 99-04 axles, but I could be wrong.

Also, why is everyone so intent on getting rid of the 8x170? Carry your own spare(s) and you'll never have an issue. Yeah wheels are a little harder to find, but it's less effort and money than swapping out everything and then re-converting to 35 spline outers.
 
#34 ·
ok so i have a 2001 super duty 60 and a sterling 10.5 rear. im not 100% sure of what it came out of (250,350, etc)...

i did see a build on here where the guy cut the cast away from the housing to expose more tube on the driver side.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=830206

i think id like to do this so i dont have to weld my coil/shock/lower mount to the cast. does this seem plausible so i can stuff it under my 2004 rubicon?
 
#37 ·
ok so i have a 2001 super duty 60 and a sterling 10.5 rear. im not 100% sure of what it came out of (250,350, etc)...



Hey man just an FYI if your certain about the year of your front axle being an 01? it is not a dana 60 its a dana 50. Only way really to find out, pull your axle shaft and count the splines. Just looking at the axles externally you cannot tell the difference between the 50 and 60. its in the guts. the 50's are 30 spline. and the R&P are smaller.
 
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