Corvette Fuel Filter/Regulator vs. Inline Check Valve - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Corvette Fuel Filter/Regulator vs. Inline Check Valve

1) Can anyone confirm or deny that there is a "one way" valve inside the corvette filter/regulator?

2) Has anyone used an inline check valve like this one available through Oreilly's -



They claim it flows as much as 3/8" line but between the resistance felt when blowing through it and the size of the ports down inside it



its just hard to believe that it wouldn't restrict flow at WOT and possibly cause a lean condition.

I need something to prevent back flow in order to maintain fuel pressure after initial prime. Fighting a hard starting issue.

Input?
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I wouldnt run that, way too restrictive. Even if it were drilled out so it were -6 sized it'd be just enough. If you are having a hard start issue due to fuel pressure then just wire a seperate fuel pump relay that stays on with the ignition rather than cycles like most, assuming that's what you have now?
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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A bad crank position sensor can cause a hard starting issue also. Any codes?
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Been awhile since I pulled my car apart but I'm almost positive there's no check in the vette filter/reg. Have one at work that I can check tomorrow if you don't have a for sure answer by tomorrow.

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If you are having a hard start issue due to fuel pressure then just wire a seperate fuel pump relay that stays on with the ignition rather than cycles like most, assuming that's what you have now?
I get worried when the fuel doesn't quit when the motor does. If it is fuel drain back problem why not just cycle the "key" a couple times?
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Been awhile since I pulled my car apart but I'm almost positive there's no check in the vette filter/reg. Have one at work that I can check tomorrow if you don't have a for sure answer by tomorrow.



I get worried when the fuel doesn't quit when the motor does. If it is fuel drain back problem why not just cycle the "key" a couple times?
This is what I have been doing. The issue is with my dd/tow rig which is a '00 Chevy 5.3 .

It doesn't have any codes, and runs fine. Putting a fuel pressure guage on it shows the pressure starting to fall off right after the initial prime ...

Originally I replaced the fuel pump (without module) with a new AC Delco thinking that was the issue. No change. I replaced the fuel rails/fpr/injectors with that of a '99 5.3 I had in the shop to rule out leaking injector(s)/fpr. No change.

I realize now I should have replaced the pump with the module as I believe there is a back flow valve in the module which must be the root of my issue. So in an effort to avoid dropping the tank again, and continue to avoid the $300 price of the pump+module I am looking for an alternate way to prevent back flow....and get those 1-2 crank starts it used to have.

I know alot of you guys are running some elaborate fuel delivery set ups so I was hoping someone might have used a part similar to the one pictured ... or know if converting to the single feed line with the vette reg might solve this issue.
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Should have replaced the whole thing. The check valve is in the tank. On the returnless rails I know it is.
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Old 12-08-2009, 11:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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check valve

I use 2 aluminum check valves like these on my jeepspeed. I use 2 pumps, one run by the computer and one on a hot switch. These are after the pumps so fuel doesn't pump back through the pumps when only one pump is on, (normal condition.) It runs 49lbs of pressure with a bosch pump. I have zero pressure lag at WOT. It gets about 5mpg, so there is some volume too. I have to let the pressure out at the manifold when priming the system, then never lose pressure. It can sit for a month and hold pressure at the manifold. ebay, $14.00
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maybe i'm just slow or retarded or something.
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I found one similar to that but the desription states "not suitable for Fuel injection. Suitable for Carburettor and low pressure fuel systems"




This looks to be the unit I have now, only in 3/8". Has the same little arrows.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carte...Q5fAccessories
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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There is no check valve in the vette filter/regulator. If you need a check valve Aeromotive makes a nice high flow check valve:




http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AE...6/?image=large
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah, I saw that on ebay as well. There is also an OBX version for $25.



I wish they put some kind of flow #s with these things. For $60 I could run 2 of the cheaper units like -- < == > --
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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These guys make pretty nice check valves, I use one on my dad's boat that has two engines running off a single tank. Up to 3/4".:

http://www.specialtymfg.com/check_va...ss/default.asp

Also, as a thought, marine dealers typically stock these things because multi-engine set-ups are common on boats. Search for "anti-siphon valves".

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Old 12-08-2009, 08:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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the earls ones do not restrict flow. look for ones with viton seals

I use 2 of these in my system
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-251008ERL/
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I was having pretty bad fuel delivery/flow issues. had someone throw a PSI guage on it, turns out it wasn't providing enough PSI or for my 4.8L(same setup as the LS series, btw, i found it also didn't have enough flow). I put a new pump and the corvette filter on. and put a PSI guage on the fuel rail.

having the ability to see the PSI opened my eyes to all kinds of items. like the fact that right now if the rig sits for a bit, it runs down to 0 psi. I found a very slow leak in the line. it also showed me that the rig doesn't like to start when it's low on PSI in the rail.

If you haven't done so yet, might want to put an inline PSI guage to see what's going on. I still haven't figured out if it's the small leak or the corvette filter that's allowing the PSI to drop to 0 when sitting for extended times.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for that link camo. I'm going to order one of them up for my system when I plumb in the 5.3.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:04 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for that link camo. I'm going to order one of them up for my system when I plumb in the 5.3.
I run the AN -8 ones but they also have AN -6 if that is the size you need.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-251006ERL/
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:08 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Agree with the guage idea. I have a fuel pressure guage in front of the co-dog. It makes for fast identification of engine issues. Suck, Blow, Pop, Squirt.......It's gotta be one of em!
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maybe i'm just slow or retarded or something.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:43 AM   #17 (permalink)
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the earls ones do not restrict flow. look for ones with viton seals

I use 2 of these in my system
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-251008ERL/
Maybe I'm misunderstanding but what I was told at the local supply house was the difference in viton and regualr buna seals was heat range. Am I being mislead or is there another reason why Viton would be better than regular buna seals?
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:55 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Maybe I'm misunderstanding but what I was told at the local supply house was the difference in viton and regualr buna seals was heat range. Am I being mislead or is there another reason why Viton would be better than regular buna seals?
mainly I suggest viton seals as a means of simply knowing what you have. el cheapo parts often don't specify what the seal is and could be bubble gum for all you know.

so you know if it is viton it is going to perform.

but a buna seal should be fine

http://www.pspglobal.com/nfpcatalog.html

and a comparision of viton and buna
http://www.tpub.com/content/construc...9-14-P0607.htm
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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You guys putting the check valves right after the filter/regulator or in between the pump and the filter/regular (in my setup at least). Yeah I know Tuesday was yesterday...
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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My 2 HP pumps run into a Y with the check valves
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts88yj View Post
You guys putting the check valves right after the filter/regulator or in between the pump and the filter/regular (in my setup at least). Yeah I know Tuesday was yesterday...
I personally would put the check valve right after the filter/reg rather than in between the reg and the pump. Thus eliminating the reg from the equation of keeping pressure in the rail. Obviously keeping everything as far back toward the tank as possible so that more of the line stays pressurized, and there is less to "prime".

Now if you're running 2 pumps to a single filter/reg you would have to run one between the off pump and the merge to keep the on pump from pushing past the off pump. As Bigburlynakedguy described.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:24 PM   #22 (permalink)
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My 2 HP pumps run into a Y with the check valves
Excellent. First hand experience with the aeromotive unit. lxh0318 can you share some more info like what psi you're running and what motor you're feeding.

Do you recall what the inside of the valve looked like? If you looked into them.
Thanks
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:34 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Excellent. First hand experience with the aeromotive unit. lxh0318 can you share some more info like what psi you're running and what motor you're feeding.

Do you recall what the inside of the valve looked like? If you looked into them.
Thanks
60 PSI on a turnkey LS2. Not really sure how to explain the inside of the the check valve. Really just a ball that seals it of.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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60 PSI on a turnkey LS2. Not really sure how to explain the inside of the the check valve. Really just a ball that seals it of.
Good deal. If it flows enough for your application it should be plenty for mine. I am going to try to get one of the OBX units as they are cheaper.

As far as the inside I mainly just wanted to know if it had any obvious obstructions like the second pic I posted.

Last edited by JF; 12-09-2009 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:07 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Good deal. If it flows enough for your application it should be plenty for mine. I am going to try to get one of the OBX units as they are cheaper.

As far as the inside I mainly just wanted to know if it had any obvious obstructions like the second pic I posted.
It does have restictions but you can blow through them very easy.
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