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Pitman Arm is too short: lets start a list of OEM lengths for future reference:

152K views 132 replies 51 participants last post by  Symon623 
#1 · (Edited)
I just discovered that the pitman arm on my XJ is about 3/4" too short, and won't give me full steering angle at the wheels.

I prefer not to move the mounting location on the knuckle, because I built the track bar around the current high steer arm.

Aside from building a custom pitman, have any of you found an OE application that has a radius of about 6.25"?

Lets start a list of OEM pitman arms and their dimensions:

XJ/TJ/YJ: 5.5" radius.

CJ:~5.5"




FSJ (J20): ~6.75"



I have an astro arm here too, but it's outside and it's raining...

-Chris
 
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#5 ·
the arm you want is from a '70s camaro or firebird ( the smokey and the bandit ones ) dead flat and 6.3 hole to hole the spline count and is the same for nearly all "automotive" steering boxes because they were all made by saginaw , the only difference is Ford ( nobody ever swaps ford steering stuff in to there truck , fords are all jacked up and weird :D)
 
#7 ·
the arm you want is from a '70s camaro or firebird ( the smokey and the bandit ones ) dead flat and 6.3 hole to hole the spline count and is the same for nearly all "automotive" steering boxes because they were all made by saginaw , the only difference is Ford ( nobody ever swaps ford steering stuff into there truck , fords are all jacked up and weird :D)
We heard you the first time :flipoff2: Personally on my YJ I'm running a FSJ pitman arm, although i had to cut off the upper track bar mount for clearance. There is some Ford pitman arm you can use too off a pickup truck but I can't remember what it is off the top of my head.
 
#6 ·
the arm you want is from a '70s camaro or firebird ( the smokey and the bandit ones ) dead flat and 6.3 hole to hole the spline count and is the same for nearly all "automotive" steering boxes because they were all made by saginaw , the only difference is Ford ( nobody ever swaps ford steering stuff into there truck , fords are all jacked up and weird :D)
 
#12 ·
If you want about 1 1/2" of drop and you're running a heim on the pitman arm of the drag link or you have a reamer you can also use a scoutII pitman arm. it is 9" center to center but it looks like a chunk of bar stock so you can cut and drill it wherever you like.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I use them quite a bit building custom steering. I've found Crown to be equivalent in quality to OEM and a fair bit cheaper. My partner has also ordered them online from the Jeep specialty houses like Jeepsareus and they run about 35 bucks or so going that route for OEM.

Be warned though, I bought one from auto parts warehouse 2 years ago and I'm still getting spam from those bastards.
 
#17 ·
I'm going to ream this for one ton tie rod ends, and install it to check if it works with the existing bracket.
And then you are going to use the 1/2 to 3/4-ton 7/8" tie rod ends that everyone else runs:rolleyes::shaking:

Were you not getting full steering in both directions or just one?
 
#18 ·
good info, my yj cant turn to the stops with the stock arm. Guess I'll see about picking up one of those wj arms.

I had to adjust the drag link so that it would get equal steering in either direction. which put me about 3/8" away from the knuckle stops.
 
#23 ·
I think he's shaking his head because you called them "1-ton" ends, when the same ends are used on 1/2-tons. :laughing:

The drag link ends have a bigger taper than the tie rod ends, but that doesn't have anything to do with their "tonage."
 
#24 · (Edited)
chevys often have problems in one direction and clocking the pitman arm helps.

If you are using 7/8" TRE's they aren't 1-ton (which are 1" like mine). Jeep guys just like to exaggerate because they have small penis syndrome.
 
#34 ·
EDIT: I can't clock the pitman, there are larger splines that only allow installation in one of four positions.
Quit being a candy ass and break out the hack saw and triangle file. Thread the blade of the hack saw through the hole, cut down the center of each double spline to the same depth thereabouts of the original splines. Remove blade, touch them up with the triangle file and go clock to your heart's content.

Done it many many times.
 
#27 ·
Heh heh... You weren't too sarcastic in person.

KOH 2010: I can't go, and it's KILLING me.

My wife and I are expecting our first child ANY second now... she's "due" today.

We are planning on coming back next year, and celebrating her (its a girl) one year birthday with a KOH trip.

I HOPE to have this XJ or my other rig shipped out and stay on the lake bed for the week so we will be able to see much more of the event.

Hope to see you there.

BTW: ARE there one ton tie rod ends that work in this sort of application?

I haven't found any.

-Chris
 
#28 ·
The problem is finding a left hand 1" TRE. Any GM with a D60 came with 1" TRE's but the left hand one was 4'ish foot long and $$$. Some people just use 2 rights. I think there is a Ford part number for a short left hand but they aren't all that common or easy to find.
 
#30 · (Edited)
despite possible "length" issues , a 1ton Dodge ( Moog ES2010 ) uses a 7/8"-18 thread and a standard Dana TRE taper , so yeah it's 1 ton , just not chevy 1 ton

for a "high misalignment " drag link end that's not the weird taper chevy end use Moog ES 2082/2083 ( basically the same short body 7/8 thread package as the es2010 but more misalignment angle )


has anybody pulled a properly engaged ( 1.5 X D ) 7/8 TRE thread out anyways? or is it simply a "more is better" thing?
 
#31 ·
Which they also used in 1/2 and 3/4 ton. That specific part number may have been used on a few 1-tons but the vast majority of them wern't. Why not just call it a full size dodge part...oh I forgot you have a small penis:flipoff2:
 
#33 ·
Get a chance to measure that Astro arm?

I'm sitting here with a pair of pitman arms. First one claims to be a stock Wagoneer. It has about a 3/4" drop, fits a wagoneer TRE, and is about 6.75" center to center. That agrees with what you have posted.

I also have what I've thought is a stock CJ arm. It has a smaller TRE, it is completely flat, but it has a center to center distance of 6.75" It has part #5353275 cast into it. As far as I know, its stock power steering CJ.

Is it possible CJ manual and power steering pitman arms are different? Is 8036387 the part number for the CJ arm you have pictured?
 
#37 · (Edited)
Chris asked me to take a look at this thread since he is too busy photographing hot nurses for us guys at PBB. :flipoff2:



My Waggy pitman has 1/2 inch of drop from bottom-to-bottom. It also measures 6.75 from center-to-center.



The manual CJ pitman arms that I've had are smaller (sector shaft wise) than the PS models. Been a little while since I had one in my hands recently. The TRE end of the pitman is definitely smaller on the CJ models (esp the manual steering CJs). Double check that you have enough material to drill & ream that.



I have no way to measure an Astro van pitman arm for you tho. :(




I have to measure the WJ pitman arm I have here. The pictures that freeak provided are a bit deceiving. A Dodge 1/2 ton also has about 2 inches of drop and the 6.75 length.



That get you going in the right direction for now ?



Joe
 
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