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Old 05-03-2010, 11:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How did you mount your aluminum radiator?

Im at a loss for coming up with a good permanent mounting bracket for my aftermarket aluminum radiator. Its on the front of my cherokee. Its your typical griffin style chevy radiator. Just lookin for ideas here.....
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I made some brackets that clamp the radiator into place on a buggy.

The top clamp I welded some tabs onto it and bolted it to a tube that went across the top of the radiator.

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This is the Bottom bracket. It welded in between 2 upright tubes and the radiator sits in front of them with the offset.
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This is the top clamp piece.
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Normally I would put the radiator between the tubes but this is a retrofit job and I didn't want to cut out a bunch of tube.

I will get a pic of it on the buggy if you think it will help.
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Old 05-04-2010, 08:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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JBWeld...or bubblegum in a pinch. But seriously, any design similar to above...also make sure to "soft mount" it as aluminum radiators rubbing on steel mounts creates some issues...obviously.
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I had a hard time with a top and bottom sandwich style mount in my unusual application so I bought these brackets and had Randy at Bomber Fab Tig them onto my radiator.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-380099/?rtype=10





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Old 05-04-2010, 10:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The first post is the better way if doing it. It is best to use saddle style holders rather then weld onto the radiator. If you weld to the radiator you need to replace the rad because it will crack at the toe of the weld.

How do I know you ask we did that on our old promod rig and one weekend at the hammers it was toast. Jb weld can only do so much too. Maybe Brian can post some pics of his radiator mount on his new car. Paging 1uglyranger!!!!

Also look at the mfs buggy #001 thread dan is one hell of a fab guy and I respect his work though I have never met him.


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Old 05-04-2010, 11:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I made some U brackets for the bottom and used some 1/4 dense foam to sit in the U to cradle the lower rad. Then the top mount was similar (not nearly as nice) as Jeep07. Works well and was easy
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Before you make your mount you should look at how the plate above the core is attached to the tanks. On the Griffen that I have only one tank is really welded to the plate. There is a gap between the end of the plate and the tank on one side, top and bottom. This should not be a real problem but you may want to consider this in your design. With repeated large air I can see the possibility of the core bending due to the weight of the water in the tanks.
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Old 05-06-2010, 11:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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well i will look at my radiator, it is a speedway motors radiator. The cheapest place i could find one. For my bottom mount i just put a piece of angle iron turned up into a V and the bottom of the radiator core sets inside the V portion. Im still in the air on what to do to the upper mount
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Old 05-15-2010, 10:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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any more?
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Old 05-15-2010, 10:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I made this tray to support the entire bottom of the radiator. It was built 1/8" bigger than the radiator in every dimension so it can be lined with some 1/8" rubber or foam.

The top bolts on so that it's removable and the radiator comes out the top. Foam will go in here too.



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Old 05-16-2010, 03:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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If you weld tabs onto the radiator to mount it, you have to make sure that you put plenty of bushings in them to give the radiator room to move and not get bent when the body flexes. Mounting it ridgidly will tear it appart if the mounts have any movement at all. We got a memo from R&K toolboxes many moons ago about only using one bolt per side of the toolboxes to mount them in the bed of the trucks becuase they were built strong enough that when the bed would flex it would tear the welds open.
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Old 05-16-2010, 02:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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if you weld tabs or brackets to the radiator, I would weld on a re-pad (reinforcing pad). Basically a thicker plate with a good amount of linear inches of weld on it. Then weld the tabs or brackets to these. That way if the welds on the tabs break loose, you will not create a leak. This is similar to what is done on ASME pressure vessels for mounting pad eyes, brackets, or nozzles. Work well.
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Old 05-16-2010, 02:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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like this
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Old 05-16-2010, 02:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Here is how I did mine: bottom tray and top center bracket
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Any more examples?

Is it better to mount it to the body, or the frame? I can imagine if you tried both it would tear things up quickly.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If you weld to the radiator you need to replace the rad because it will crack at the toe of the weld.

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My KOH buggy has seen a ridiculous amount of abuse in the last year and a half and I haven't cracked the radiator. Its also solid mounted.
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Old 05-22-2010, 06:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I am just speaking from the experience that I have. There might be some difference in between the radiators we used and you used. I am intersted in seeing the mount in better detail. Buggy looks killer! see you out at calrocs in a few weeks.

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Old 05-22-2010, 07:43 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The biggest thing with solid mounting a radiator is to make sure all the mounts are bolted to a solid structure. It's the same concept as solid mounting and engine/trans. If you solid mount the engine and rubber mount the trans, you are gunna have a bad day M'kay?

I have ran the same radiator, solid mounted, in my hillclimb Camaro for 8 years........Not one crack or problem. Mounting the radiator to the core support, like Earl Kann did is just fine as long as the support flexes equally along its length. I have mounted a ton of radiators just like he did(angle welded to the tanks) and not one of them ever cracked. If your welds are cracking, you better go take a few more lessons Another thing to look at is the quaility of the rad. I had a few cheap, Speedway motors(made by Griffen) rads, crack in a rubber-mount application.

With that said, solid mounting it in a chassis that flexes alot(actually chassis flex) will give you a bad day, M'kay? Mudtruck44 is a good example. That chassis has little to NO flex, thus keeping the radiator from flexing.



EDIT: I did not see rockcity's post but that is the right way to do it. That is standard pressure-vessel procedure. If you look at the high-dollar C&R Visteon radiators that Nascar uses, every seam is reinforced this was also.
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Old 05-22-2010, 08:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The cheaper rads you do not want to mount from the core, but instead mount from the tanks.

Our rads are from Ron Davis so their core support is MUCH sturdier and can withstand some extreme abuse...they say we can mount from there but still only do so if we've got an integrated fan shround to make it even stronger. Ron Davis has a pretty slick little "pin" system for mounting the radiators and we've been using that with success. I'll see if I can dig up pics.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:43 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmsFab View Post
The biggest thing with solid mounting a radiator is to make sure all the mounts are bolted to a solid structure. It's the same concept as solid mounting and engine/trans. If you solid mount the engine and rubber mount the trans, you are gunna have a bad day M'kay?

I have ran the same radiator, solid mounted, in my hillclimb Camaro for 8 years........Not one crack or problem. Mounting the radiator to the core support, like Earl Kann did is just fine as long as the support flexes equally along its length. I have mounted a ton of radiators just like he did(angle welded to the tanks) and not one of them ever cracked. If your welds are cracking, you better go take a few more lessons Another thing to look at is the quaility of the rad. I had a few cheap, Speedway motors(made by Griffen) rads, crack in a rubber-mount application.

With that said, solid mounting it in a chassis that flexes alot(actually chassis flex) will give you a bad day, M'kay? Mudtruck44 is a good example. That chassis has little to NO flex, thus keeping the radiator from flexing.



EDIT: I did not see rockcity's post but that is the right way to do it. That is standard pressure-vessel procedure. If you look at the high-dollar C&R Visteon radiators that Nascar uses, every seam is reinforced this was also.
Actually, I looked at mounting mine to the core support (body) but I was afraid that it was going to see too much torsional flex, so instead I welded some angle to the frame and mounted the radiator to that. It's pretty solid. I have ToolBoxGuy Formula Toyota engine mounts, so not much flex there either. I have not wheeled it yet, but have put a few street miles on it with no problems so far. Randy at Bomber Fab welded my brackets on so I'm not worried about those.
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Old 05-22-2010, 11:29 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I didn't mount it. But this is how Trout does it.

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Old 05-23-2010, 06:25 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I made 2 piece clamping blocks with an arm that extends up and locates the rad from above...the bottom of the rad sits in the typical saddle. The blocks clamp around one of the tubes that make up the rear shock towers.The blocks unclamp and can be slid up and outa the way so the rad lifts out easily. There is a "little" flex associated with the shock towers but 2.5 years in and no danmage to the rad.

The Aluminum(6061) block/arm things were made with a skillsaw, drillpress and a TIG.....nothin too fancy. Crappy cell phone pic.....if it shows up.

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Old 06-26-2010, 07:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The cheaper rads you do not want to mount from the core, but instead mount from the tanks.

Our rads are from Ron Davis so their core support is MUCH sturdier and can withstand some extreme abuse...they say we can mount from there but still only do so if we've got an integrated fan shround to make it even stronger. Ron Davis has a pretty slick little "pin" system for mounting the radiators and we've been using that with success. I'll see if I can dig up pics.

Any pictures of your mounts?
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:43 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I didn't mount it. But this is how Trout does it.

Bumping an old thread but I'm building my upper mounts tonight and was thinking about doing it this exact way (cradle wise). The bottom is the same but welded solid. I plan on rounding all the mount edges to prevent gouging the rad. Thinking that with the rounding and powdercoat I'll probably only add some thin rubber on bottom to pinch it a little? Thoughts anyone?
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:23 PM   #25 (permalink)
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been doing some research on this and still not finding something I like... I like the old style GM rubber saddle mounts that cover the pinch seam area where the tanks join the core. But they don't fit quite right. Basically a similar design rubber or polly, made to fit an after market radiator.
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