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Old 02-13-2011, 10:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Nukeproof Fab's Mogster buggy build

I started this chassis back in early winter, in a different, bigger shop. Now that it is at a rolling chassis stage, i brought it back to my one car garage to finish it. Not having my 2500 foot, floor heated, nice new shop back in montana kinda sucks, but I've been working away from home for a while now. So The one car slab will have to do for this build. The goal is a go-fast KOH worthy rig that can still do double duty as a recreational wheeler. something i can still camp out of.




Here are the plans/specs.
-2.5 seat buggy. (i'm trying for a removable small rear bench)
-unimog 404 axles (7.56:1)
-LQ4 6.0 chevy truck engine
-4L80E transmission
-Ford NP 205 t-case (3.8 Atlas eventually)
-42" tires on stock backspace H-1 wheels
- double triaglulated 4 link F+R with King coilovers
-119" wheelbase
-56" outside chassis width
-84" outside track width
-main lower frame 1.75x.188 DOM
-main cage 1.75x.120 DOM
-other stringers and tubes 1.75x.120 CREW



here we are rolling her off the trailer...
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Last edited by montanatrout; 02-21-2011 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Bout time!
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I did not see a spec for a Berco snow blower?????
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hard to tell are the mogs narrowed? Do you have any pics of how the front driveshaft will be? I'm starting my mog buggy and I had to shift the running gear in the chassis toward the passenger side to keep the engine low enough. Also is the rig sitting close to ride height? I'm hoping to stay about 73" tall with 404's and 42's. looking foward to watching your build.
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Old 02-14-2011, 09:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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How the hell are scout skins going to fit on that? Glad to see some progress.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Looking really mean Chris. I assume that is not ride height though? What are you shooting for for belly height? Make sure you put a receiver hitch in the back for pulling that new boat next summer!
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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not ride height, this is pretty close to full bump. i would be able to get another 4" or so out of the front if only i had the $$$ for spidertrax (or something similar) housings and shafts. the stock front in particular is a little too centered for the diff to clear the oil pan. so im gunna set up for the new housing, cuz i will get a couple eventually
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[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Looks great so far. I am glad I am not the only one having to work on my stuff in the snow.
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Lookin good Chris! Looking forward to watching the build!
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:30 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montanatrout View Post
. the stock front in particular is a little too centered for the diff to clear the oil pan.
have you looked into modding the oilpan?

i ended up cutting as much as i could out of my pan to clear with my 406's. gained about an inch which was just enough to clear with a 2 piece driveline. i built the new side out of 1/8" in case a u-joint ever let go and that dline started wanging around in there.

jsut an idea.

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Old 02-18-2011, 05:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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ya sceep, i'll get a pic up soon, but the only thing that will let the axle bump up as high as i want it to is an axle with a diff thats moved over to the side more. I gotta do a little research, but what does anyone think of modding the stock housing for a more offset diff? and new front axles wouldnt hurt either as they are quite a bit smaller than the rears. the 404 thirds are strong arent they? or would i just be better off doing mog9's eventually?
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[CENTER]"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the
system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
:usa:
'79 F-350 Crewcab, Cummins, 6spd. 37s
NPF chassis, 6.0, 4L80E, 404s, 42s, :stirthepot:
[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]

Last edited by montanatrout; 02-18-2011 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 02-18-2011, 05:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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heres some pics of the 8 lug conversion i did...



burned the flanges out of .500 then turned the stock hubs to a .002" press fit on the flange, heated the flange, slid it on the hub, preheat the hub then welded, and cooled really slow. it went good
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[CENTER]"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the
system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
:usa:
'79 F-350 Crewcab, Cummins, 6spd. 37s
NPF chassis, 6.0, 4L80E, 404s, 42s, :stirthepot:
[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]

Last edited by montanatrout; 02-18-2011 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 02-18-2011, 05:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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heres my hub puller using a 20 ton bottle jack, it took every bit of 20T plus a BFH to break them loose!

a little sanding and they went on way easier, we'll see how getting them off is gunna be.
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[CENTER]"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the
system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
:usa:
'79 F-350 Crewcab, Cummins, 6spd. 37s
NPF chassis, 6.0, 4L80E, 404s, 42s, :stirthepot:
[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montanatrout View Post
heres my hub puller using a 20 ton bottle jack, it took every bit of 20t plus a bfh to break them loose!

A little sanding and they went on way easier, we'll see how getting them off is gunna be.
love it!
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:44 AM   #15 (permalink)
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so whatcha think? mod. the mog axles using cromo shafts or go for the mog9 setup?
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[CENTER]"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the
system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
:usa:
'79 F-350 Crewcab, Cummins, 6spd. 37s
NPF chassis, 6.0, 4L80E, 404s, 42s, :stirthepot:
[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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mog9 W/cromo shafts
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
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if i think it all out right, in theory i could do the modified mog axle setup with the diff moved over about 6", and if i have trouble with the diff/R&P/locker down the road, still be able to re-spline the mog shafts down to at least a 31 spline for the mog9. mabey even a 35. the point is to try and not do things twice, that expensive. and of course i do not have the extra coin for the mog9s right now. hmmmmmmmmm
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[CENTER]"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the
system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
:usa:
'79 F-350 Crewcab, Cummins, 6spd. 37s
NPF chassis, 6.0, 4L80E, 404s, 42s, :stirthepot:
[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]

Last edited by montanatrout; 02-19-2011 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I have the narrowed shafts from my old 404 mog axles if your intrested. CTM.

I think they were narrowed 7" so stock long side and moved the drivers side over and a 12.5" ctm shaft.
Rear i used a stock short side and this centered the rear diff with a 19.75 CTm shaft. housings were right at 36".

Last edited by tjmark; 02-19-2011 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:19 AM   #19 (permalink)
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is the 12.5" measured from the center of trunion to end of splines? might be interested in that one if you will separate.
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[CENTER]"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the
system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
:usa:
'79 F-350 Crewcab, Cummins, 6spd. 37s
NPF chassis, 6.0, 4L80E, 404s, 42s, :stirthepot:
[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:27 PM   #20 (permalink)
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got a couple more tubes in on the chassis this weekend, and set the upper rear links. got 8" on the frame of separation and 11" on the axle with the lowers about 1" above true axle centerline. should end up with about the same on the front

lower links are made from 2x3x.188 rectangle tube with 3" weld in Ballistic joints at the rear and poly bushings from Ruffstuff on the frame end to help reduce shock. 3/4" bolts

upper links are 1.5x.120 DOM using 3/4x7/8 cromo rod ends with 5/8" id misalignment spacers from Ruffstuff

ended up with good rear triangulation on the uppers.


there is a pic showing how close the pinion flange is to the oil pan
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[CENTER]"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the
system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
:usa:
'79 F-350 Crewcab, Cummins, 6spd. 37s
NPF chassis, 6.0, 4L80E, 404s, 42s, :stirthepot:
[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]

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Old 02-21-2011, 08:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Probably a spendy idea, but would a dry sump oiling system gain anything as far as clearance?
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:13 AM   #22 (permalink)
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not a bad thought mark, but i still dont like like the driveshaft going under the pan in full bump. i think i'm gunna move the diff over and get new front shafts
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[CENTER]"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the
system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
:usa:
'79 F-350 Crewcab, Cummins, 6spd. 37s
NPF chassis, 6.0, 4L80E, 404s, 42s, :stirthepot:
[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Lime"][FONT="Courier New"][B][url]www.nukeprooffab.com[/url][/B][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER]
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Ya, just browsed dry sump stuff a bit. Oil pan alone $400-$800

Thought maybe a two piece front driveshaft with the carrier bearing offset to the drivers side. Still a bandaid fix that wouldn't fully cure it.
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Ya, just browsed dry sump stuff a bit. Oil pan alone $400-$800

Thought maybe a two piece front driveshaft with the carrier bearing offset to the drivers side. Still a bandaid fix that wouldn't fully cure it.
I always just shove the engine over as far as I can get it, it helps when you layout the chassis tubes to accommodate that though.

You can get them pretty low with the standard axle lengths.

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Old 02-21-2011, 12:49 PM   #25 (permalink)
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or you can shorten the short side shaft in the front, and shorten the rear long side the same amount, this has been done on multiple 404'd rigs, and centers up the rear end. I opted with 9" housings, more gearing and locker options
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