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Old 02-23-2011, 01:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dry Sump Pan Design Ideas ?

Afternoon,

I'm busy getting some bits together for my dry sump system on my rover v8 4.2.

I am planning on making my own sump pan, but looking for some ideas. I guess most of the dry sump systems are made for racing cars and the likes, and not for us that plant our vehicles at stupid angles !

What you generally see is a really shallow flat sump with suction at front and back. Space below my engine isn't a massive problem, as the gearbox bellhousing drops down a fair bit anyway.

I guess it'll have to have a channel down the middle.

My pump has 2 scavengers. So i need 2 suctions which will obviously have to be front and back.

So if you had a blank piece of paper, how would you design one ?

Or better still photos

Cheers

Gordon
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ron Fornier put out a great book called the metal fabricator handbook. It has a section on building the components for a dry sump system. That may help. There are plenty of ways to skin the cat!
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i havnt decided on what dry sump pan im going to use for my ls3. im also doing 2 suckers in the pan. peterson.com builds dry sump systems and they built my new pump. they said 2 scavenges were plenty for a rock racer/desert racer so i guess we are good there.


i called these guys about my needs
http://www.drysump.com/drysump.htm
Gary spoke to me and shared that the propper construction of a drysump pan is often very specific for per application. ie circle track or nascar pans are built to go in a circle where a rally pan is different.

i told him what i would be doing with a rock racer and he told me i would probably be fine with having a couple proper AN fittings welded to the bottom of an oe pan. thats what he told me. i dont know if it is the right answer.

when you think about it, a pair of independent scavenge ports in the bottom of a plain fbody pan pulling 10 inches of vacume is going to recover oil better than any pickup could ever dream. and even if they do run dry for a bit you still have 4 gal of fresh cool oil to pump in the motor while you hammer away at back door
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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a divided pan will recover the best, front/rear divided to the main cap, shallow bottom, with rear recovery ports, drainbacks extended all the way to the pan would be a good start for a 2 stage...
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDTECHGURU View Post
a divided pan will recover the best, front/rear divided to the main cap, shallow bottom, with rear recovery ports, drainbacks extended all the way to the pan would be a good start for a 2 stage...
you couldn't explain that a little better could you? have you had experience with dry sump? just trying to learn. thanx
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I've been reading the 2010 thread with interest as well, which looks at dry sumps for rock crawlers. My problem is different, in that steep angles on winch challenge punch-hunts cause the front plugs to foul with oil on my 3.5 litre Rover. It has to sit at steep angles for a long time. This engine also has a rubbish oil pump and relief valve, so I decided to go for it and go dry sump.



The 1/4" plate supports the dog clutch for the hydraulic pump. The pump only finishes an inch or so from the front of the truck, so there was no room for a drive shaft on this 88" wheel base vehicle. It made sence to mount the dry sump pump on the same plate. It V belt so it can process sticks and mud.

I got this pump from David Lazenby, who knows his dry sumps, as he was cheif mechanic for the Lotus racing team years ago. He has drilled it internally so it self lubricates.

It's been a real dificult job trying to make it all fit in the space. I was suprised by how far up the front axel comes on the rangy classic
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