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Old 03-19-2012, 05:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hardie plank siding

Who installs it and what is the going rate per square?

I am putting together a bid for about 25 sq and most of it is around 40' in the air.

I have done a little research but other than that any tips or tricks for this stuff?
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've done it. Whadda ya wanna know? Start by downloading the Hardiplank install manual.

You going for price or quality?

The cheap way to put it up is to side first and then put 1-by materal on the corners. I don't like that method, at least up here in the forest. Too many places for moss and other critters to latch hold.

I use 2x material on the corners first, and then run siding -1/8 to 3/16" on between corners or window trim.

A couple of tricks if you're goin' for quality: use a string line to keep it straight and also to find any bumps. If it doesn't lay down consistently it makes funky shadow lines that look like shit. Have some shims or shim stock near by and use it to level out any dips or bumps.

For cutting, everything sucks on the straight cuts. Can't remeber the skil saw blade I used, but for curves I used some special hardiplank blades for my jig saw and the worked very, very well. At $26 for a 3 pack they should. Prior, a single cut went through whatever kind of blade I tried.

Before:


After:


You can see why I used a LOT of shims.
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quality for sure, the house I am working on runs about 3 million dollars so it needs to turn out nice.

It has Hardie siding on it now but, the original installer didn't caulk or flash anything so it is all delamenating.

Right now I have $250 a square and $1.50 a foot for all the corners and trim pieces. Does that sound inline with you guys?

Do you nail or screw yours on? I have a couple of quick drive guns and another builder has offered his hardie plank nailguns for me to use. There is only one installer here and he nails everything.

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Old 03-19-2012, 06:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by twentyfootdaredevil View Post
Quality for sure, the house I am working on runs about 3 million dollars so it needs to turn out nice.

It has Hardie siding on it now but, the original installer didn't caulk or flash anything so it is all delamenating.

Right now I have $250 a square and $1.50 a foot for all the corners and trim pieces. Does that sound inline with you guys?

Do you nail or screw yours on? I have a couple of quick drive guns and another builder has offered his hardie plank nailguns for me to use. There is only one installer here and he nails everything.
$250/sq turnkey?

I can get an entire 24 square house(new construction) done here for $1,800 labor. That includes flashing(butt joints), corner boards, trimming windows & doors, installing gable vent and all cornice. All scrap in the dumpster and all returns stacked neatly on a pallet.
edit: that is a sub with work comp & gen lia.
edit 2:that included 2 covered porches, a cedar shingle gable and setting & trimming 4 cedar 8x8 posts.

The last house we tore off the siding(GA Pac) and installed new Hardi was $100 per sqaure labor(no cornice work). I won't be doing that again. Cheaper to pay someone else.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Do you nail or screw yours on? I have a couple of quick drive guns and another builder has offered his hardie plank nailguns for me to use. There is only one installer here and he nails everything.
We use a coil nailer. Blind nail the siding and face nail the corners.

We bib flash the butt joints(and butt the siding) and leave an 1/8" gap at the corners/windows/doors/gable vents for caulk.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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$250/sq turnkey?

I can get an entire 24 square house(new construction) done here for $1,800 labor. That includes flashing(butt joints), corner boards, trimming windows & doors, installing gable vent and all cornice. All scrap in the dumpster and all returns stacked neatly on a pallet.
edit: that is a sub with work comp & gen lia.
edit 2:that included 2 covered porches, a cedar shingle gable and setting & trimming 4 cedar 8x8 posts.

The last house we tore off the siding(GA Pac) and installed new Hardi was $100 per sqaure labor(no cornice work). I won't be doing that again. Cheaper to pay someone else.
That is cheaper than I am willing to work! I like to say I am a trim carpenter and a tile setter but I end up doing a little bit of everything. I thought I was cheap @$250 and I don't plan to go lower. All of this siding starts around 35' up a wall and peaks @ close to 50'.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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That is cheaper than I am willing to work!
Me too!

We built two house last year and me and my business partner were going to frame them, run the siding and trim them.
Then when we got bids we said "fuck that" and paid someone to do it.

We are fixing to tear down a burn out and build a new house. We will do all the framing/siding/trim because we are tired of sitting around or hunting every day.
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If your only going to do one job its probably not worth it to you. But the best thing by far for cutting it is this: http://www.amazon.com/PacTool-Intern.../dp/B0000DCBJH

My tool is a dewalt but I cant seem to find a link
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by twentyfootdaredevil View Post
Quality for sure, the house I am working on runs about 3 million dollars so it needs to turn out nice.

It has Hardie siding on it now but, the original installer didn't caulk or flash anything so it is all delamenating.

Right now I have $250 a square and $1.50 a foot for all the corners and trim pieces. Does that sound inline with you guys?

Do you nail or screw yours on? I have a couple of quick drive guns and another builder has offered his hardie plank nailguns for me to use. There is only one installer here and he nails everything.
Price sounds about right. Blind nail where you can. Face nail the ends and running joints. I personally do not like the trim so I use #1 treated lumber for the corners and trim. I screw those with stainless fasteners.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If your only going to do one job its probably not worth it to you. But the best thing by far for cutting it is this: http://www.amazon.com/PacTool-Intern.../dp/B0000DCBJH

My tool is a dewalt but I cant seem to find a link
This and a foot shear for straight cuts (not just perpendicular).

Not for the OP, but others reading the thread - I have done 3 houses using the pre-colored Hardie, and I would do it again. Last house it saved us almost $20K in painting.
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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This and a foot shear for straight cuts (not just perpendicular).

Not for the OP, but others reading the thread - I have done 3 houses using the pre-colored Hardie, and I would do it again. Last house it saved us almost $20K in painting.
How much extra did it cost vs. The money you saved painting?
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If your only going to do one job its probably not worth it to you. But the best thing by far for cutting it is this: http://www.amazon.com/PacTool-Intern.../dp/B0000DCBJH

My tool is a dewalt but I cant seem to find a link
I have the Dewalt version as well.
Those things suck! They are slow and you can only cut one piece at a time. Ripping takes forever and the edges aren't clean.

I use a Skil saw.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Not for the OP, but others reading the thread - I have done 3 houses using the pre-colored Hardie, and I would do it again. Last house it saved us almost $20K in painting.
What do you do where you need to face nail or caulk?
Not to mention saw marks, pencil lines, mud, hand prints, etc. The painters are going to have to come out and raise all there ladders anyway.

We pay $1.10 per square foot(floor footage) for turnkey exterior paint here.

Last time I checked it cost more to use prefinished Hardi siding that to use primed siding and paint the house.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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What do you do where you need to face nail or caulk?
Not to mention saw marks, pencil lines, mud, hand prints, etc. The painters are going to have to come out and raise all there ladders anyway.

We pay $1.10 per square foot(floor footage) for turnkey exterior paint here.

Last time I checked it cost more to use prefinished Hardi siding that to use primed siding and paint the house.
Those are my thoughts as well... Either you are getting a Hell of a deal on the pre painted or those are the cream of the crop painters.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Who installs it and what is the going rate per square?

I am putting together a bid for about 25 sq and most of it is around 40' in the air.

I have done a little research but other than that any tips or tricks for this stuff?
I usually do it for $3/sq. ft., labor & hot-dipped galvanized nails. I would probably do it for $4/sq. ft. at that height.

As for tips:

I like to blind nail with 8d ringshank siding nails. They should be driven in so that the just barely press into the material. You don't want to crush it or you create a failure point.

I always put a strip of 6" PVC flashing under butt joints, overlapping the piece below. I run that up a few inches above the siding (under the next course).

Use a 4T Hitachi fibercement saw blade. It throws chips instead of dust, which is far safer for the cut man. Use a respirator and eye protection. No job is worth silicosis or lung cancer. A vacuum-assisted saw will help reduce airborne particles too.

If possible, go with Color Plus. It is an excellent product and will likely be more cost effective in your application.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I usually do it for $3/sq. ft., labor & hot-dipped galvanized nails. I would probably do it for $4/sq. ft. at that height.
$300-$400 per square labor!

That's fuckin' crazy!

Do you wear a mask and carry a gun?
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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$300-$400 per square labor!

That's fuckin' crazy!

Do you wear a mask and carry a gun?
If you could get that much, wouldn't you?

We aren't anywhere near the most expensive guys around. We do excellent work, and we do it fast. That's why we can charge what we charge, and our customers are happy to hire us.
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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If you could get that much, wouldn't you?
Damn right I would!

I would be laughed out of the state if I put those numbers in a bid though.

We pay around $75 per square and there is no extra charge for cornice/windows/doors/dormers/gables/high work/porches ect.

Hell, we run siding and we won't work that cheap. We pay a sub to do it on our houses.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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If your only going to do one job its probably not worth it to you. But the best thing by far for cutting it is this: http://www.amazon.com/PacTool-Intern.../dp/B0000DCBJH

My tool is a dewalt but I cant seem to find a link
Umm right at the bottom of that page under "What Other Items Do Customers Buy After Viewing This Item?".
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D28605-...ref=pd_cp_hi_3

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Old 03-20-2012, 05:19 PM   #20 (permalink)
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You sub it out so you bill about 150-200 right? I don't think Op is looking to see what the min a sub crew will work for.
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Damn right I would!

I would be laughed out of the state if I put those numbers in a bid though.

We pay around $75 per square and there is no extra charge for cornice/windows/doors/dormers/gables/high work/porches ect.

Hell, we run siding and we won't work that cheap. We pay a sub to do it on our houses.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:36 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Damn right I would!

I would be laughed out of the state if I put those numbers in a bid though.

We pay around $75 per square and there is no extra charge for cornice/windows/doors/dormers/gables/high work/porches ect.

Hell, we run siding and we won't work that cheap. We pay a sub to do it on our houses.
My price includes trimming windows and doors, installing band and drip, and corners. I have a per foot price for cornice, and a per unit price to install gable vents, etc.

It works out pretty good for both us and our customers.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:00 PM   #22 (permalink)
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My price includes trimming windows and doors, installing band and drip, and corners. I have a per foot price for cornice, and a per unit price to install gable vents, etc.

It works out pretty good for both us and our customers.
you're pretty close to what we charged in the sacramento valley, but I couldn't get half that out here.

really it just comes down to breaking down your labor cost, material, waste, and overhead. really at that point it comes down to presentation. I've nailed several jobs that I was the highest bid because I was thorough and professional, whereas some of the others were vague and had requirements for the homeowners but left themselves a lot of "ambiguity" in their scope of work.

So, what you will work for, is what they have to pay, or they pay someone else to do it.

oh, I will also tell you, be careful if you don't use the Hardi Trim with it, as it may void the warranty. And either Hardi or certainteed has a very limited warranty on their colored siding.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:08 PM   #23 (permalink)
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you're pretty close to what we charged in the sacramento valley, but I couldn't get half that out here.

really it just comes down to breaking down your labor cost, material, waste, and overhead. really at that point it comes down to presentation. I've nailed several jobs that I was the highest bid because I was thorough and professional, whereas some of the others were vague and had requirements for the homeowners but left themselves a lot of "ambiguity" in their scope of work.

So, what you will work for, is what they have to pay, or they pay someone else to do it.

oh, I will also tell you, be careful if you don't use the Hardi Trim with it, as it may void the warranty. And either Hardi or certainteed has a very limited warranty on their colored siding.
All good, but I think if you use the method where you put the corner boards down first (I use 2x) you don't violate the warranty as long as you use the proper gap and caulk it correctly. Basically, follow the instructions for that method in the Hardiplank manual for that method.

I hate the trim put on top of the hardiplank. It looks trailer trash to me.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:31 PM   #24 (permalink)
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All good, but I think if you use the method where you put the corner boards down first (I use 2x) you don't violate the warranty as long as you use the proper gap and caulk it correctly. Basically, follow the instructions for that method in the Hardiplank manual for that method.

I hate the trim put on top of the hardiplank. It looks trailer trash to me.
in their literature, it does recommend running To the trim, but it also (IIRC) states not to use real wood due to shrinkage and movement which can cause gaps and allow water and moisture in the ends of the siding.

yeah, the trim-over looks "hack" to me, no matter what the material.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:06 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I hate the trim put on top of the hardiplank. It looks trailer trash to me.
I have never seen anyone do that before(on corners/windows/doors).

I have seen siding run first and then the cornice over the top of it. It was on a tear off of GP siding job we did. What a bitch in a 50' high gable on a slope.
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