Hi-Lift Mount for OE H3 roof rails??? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 06-12-2007, 06:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi-Lift Mount for OE H3 roof rails???

Does this thing exist? Any ideas on how to do it? There may be a Hi-Lift coming in my future so this would be good to know.
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I made some hi-lift mount brackets that allow the hi-lift to be mounted to the front of the vehicle. Cost was minimal, time was minimal, except for painting.

If you want further information, let me know. I might even take some photos.

If you want a design for the roof rails, I have one too, but it costs more, and I never made them, but the design appears to be good.
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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OK,

F5, I want more information. Did you mount it to the brush guard?

I'd love to see the pics.
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Old 06-21-2007, 11:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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OK,

F5, I want more information. Did you mount it to the brush guard?

I'd love to see the pics.

Ditto. Actually I'd like to see the ones for the roof also.
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Old 06-22-2007, 05:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'll get some photos today, doing a lot of driving around getting ready for Utah next weekend.

As for the roof rail, send me a private message with your emails, since the best I have is a word document with a small drawing and I added the explanation of how it would work. Again, I did not do a roof rail, preferring to do the front bumper mount.
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Old 06-22-2007, 06:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
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First of all, let me say I got the general idea from PhilD at Trail Duty. I saw a post on one of the forums about a similar style mount for the rear of the H2. Since the H3 has only one tow hook and a license plate that is always in the way, I started looking at the front.

2-3”X5” X 3/16” STEEL
2-3”X3” X 3/16” STEEL (Used as spacers. If these were not used, it would cause the tow hook brackets to tighten unevenly, and could cause them to break. I believe they are cast steel. Just insurance.)
2-2X1/4” X 2” DIAM. PVC PIPE FITTINGS (Used as spacers to allow the jack to mount out past the vertical brush guard rails).
2-5”X1/2” STEEL BOLTS
4-1/2” NUTS
2-1/2” WING NUTS
6-1/2” LOCK WASHERS
4-2”DIAM. STEEL FLAT WASHERS
Misc. drill bits, tools, and paint.

All the metal cost me $5.00 at the local steel shop; they even cut it to specs for free. I drilled all the holes necessary to mount the steel.

The mounts, as well as the spacers are mounted under the front tow hook brackets. In my case, between the tow hook brackets and the front brush guard brackets. If you don’t have the front brush guard, the PVC pipe might not be required, or a small piece might be required.




MOUNT/SPACER:
I removed the tow hook mounts one at a time and measured they holes for the steel by aligning the steel to be even with the side of the tow hook mounts.
I then drilled a hole for the tow hook bracket bolt, and toward the top another hole for the Hi-Lift jack bolt that is used to attach the hi-lift jack.
For the spacers, I also measured, but there is a locating pin on the backside of the tow mount, and even though not used, I didn’t feel like cutting the locating pin off. So, the spacer sticks out a bit to the outside of the tow hook mount; not a big deal for me. Again, after the location of the hole was marked, I drilled the hole for the tow hook bracket bolt to go through.

Drill two small holes into the end of the Hi-Lift mounted bolts for locks, or for pins. A safety feature just in case the wing nuts back off and the jack falls. I drove around with the jack mounted on MI roads for a week. MI roads are worse than some of the off-road trails in Utah, so I figured this was a good test. The wing nuts, never back toward the locks I installed.

On the mount, I installed the 5” bolt, then one of the 2” diameter washers, then a lock washer and a bolt. After tightening the bolt, I then installed the PVC pipe, placing another 2” diameter washer over the end of the pipe, then a lock washer and then a bolt, and tightened. While doing the final tightening, align the PVC to the large flat washers to the edge of the washers meets the edge of the pipe.

I then painted the assembly.

I then mounted the mounts to the bumper and installed the Hi-Lift jack. Everything aligned perfectly. After installing the Hi-Lift to the mounts, I then tightened the tow hook mounting brackets to the required torque. When first installing the Hi-Lift to the mounts I left the mounts tight, but loose enough to move slightly to make sure the holes in the Hi-Lift aligned ok with the bolts.

The U-shaped brackets shown in the photos that the wing nuts are up against were from my 4XTRAC brackets from my old Jeep. They are not necessary, a large washer, then a lock washer, then the wing nut would be ok. I had them sitting on my shelf, so I used them.

When I get done running around, maybe later today I'll do a quick mount of the jack and get a photo of that.
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Old 07-21-2007, 10:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ditto. Actually I'd like to see the ones for the roof also.
Same here, roof mount anyone...if you have a winch you can't mount to the front bumper.
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I am fairly certain you mount it to the roof rack bars using just bolts from the hardware store. All you'd have to do is slide a bolt into your rack that faces upward, into the bottom of one of the holes in the jack, then put a nut on.
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Old 07-22-2007, 09:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I am fairly certain you mount it to the roof rack bars using just bolts from the hardware store. All you'd have to do is slide a bolt into your rack that faces upward, into the bottom of one of the holes in the jack, then put a nut on.
That is what I was thinking, use the channel that the rubber flange sits in. But I'm not sure if a 1/2" bolt head will slide in the track? Then all you need is the wing nuts and you are set. Just need to try it maybe today, after a nice BBQ.
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Old 07-22-2007, 09:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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This is the roof mount system I copied:

http://gear.h3adventure.com/mightyMounts.html

By the way, the guy who came up with this is the same guy that got Matt at DOI to design his famous winch bumper.
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Old 07-22-2007, 04:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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That is what I was thinking, use the channel that the rubber flange sits in. But I'm not sure if a 1/2" bolt head will slide in the track? Then all you need is the wing nuts and you are set. Just need to try it maybe today, after a nice BBQ.
Use carriage bolts so you wont have to worry about holding the bolt with a wrench. Put a washer, thick rubber spacer, hi-lift, washer, and a nut. To top it off, buy 2 of those "spare tire locks" that fit over a lug nut, like on a bolt trailer spare tire. This will secure the nuts on top! This is a much cleaner install than in that link shown above, plus no fugly cable/lock running through like they show there either. Since the carriage bolt is slid into the roof rail track, this setup keeps the bottom secure and the "spare tire locks" keep the top secure.

Last edited by tomp; 07-22-2007 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Use carriage bolts so you wont have to worry about holding the bolt with a wrench. Put a washer, thick rubber spacer, hi-lift, washer, and a nut. To top it off, buy 2 of those "spare tire locks" that fit over a lug nut, like on a bolt trailer spare tire. This will secure the nuts on top! This is a much cleaner install than in that link shown above, plus no fugly cable/lock running through like they show there either. Since the carriage bolt is slid into the roof rail track, this setup keeps the bottom secure and the "spare tire locks" keep the top secure.
Well it worked, the 1/2" carriage bolt was too big and would not fit in the roof rail groove. The 3/8" did, with some rubber spacers, washers and butterfly bolts to fit the carriage bolt it fit perfect. The 1/2" bolt works on the side rails but I need my roof rack up there. Got the Rola and just moved it the side abit and slid the jack in. Pictures soon to follow just making some fine adjustments. Thanks for the help guys and gals.
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Old 07-30-2007, 06:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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This is my solution to the problem. I ended up getting some 5/16" x 2.5" carrige bolts along with two fender washers each, a large 1-5/8" rubber stopper, some nylon washers, and a star knob (don't recall the exact name )



I drilled a hole through the center of the rubber stoppers and then cut a space to match the nut. The cutting is crude, but it functions perfectly.



After that I cut a small slice in the rubber cover of the cross bars and slid the carriage bolt through. Cutting away a small portion of the "T" in the rubber that hods the cover into the cross bars will aid in sliding the cover and carriage bolt back into the track.



From here I put on the large fender washer and tightened the nut down.



With the nut tightened down slide the rubber stopper over the bolt and nut and place the Hi-Lift on the bumpers. Then add the smaller fender washer and the two nylon washers and finally the knob. The bumper compresses to act as a lock washer, holding everything very securely.



When you are done with your wheeling for the day its easy to remove the Hi-Lift and the brackets. Everything disassembles and removes cleanly and easily in minutes. Seeing as the Hi-Lift doesn't like being exposed to the weather, taking it off between trips was a key item when planning this out. So far I am very happy with this solution, especially as it cost all of about $10 max for all the hardware
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Old 08-17-2007, 05:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Seeing as the Hi-Lift doesn't like being exposed to the weather, taking it off between trips was a key item when planning this out.
That's wierd, I've had outside my jeep, suburban, and now hummer for probably 5+ years and no rust and still works same as new. Even with half the red paint rubbed off it seems to work just fine (and rust isn't a bad thing!)...
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Old 09-09-2007, 10:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Ipe, I like that, in fact, I might change mine around.
As for the jack and weather, I spray mine down with dry lubrication, either Kent Industries or Super Lube. Seems to keep the jack from rusting and keeps it operating.
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