2" lift = 40" boggers clearing with ease

[ycis]

[Arizona_Jeep]

Dayum...

[tim_zr2]

That looks bad ass man. Got any more pics?

-Tim

[ycis]

Thanks!

just been taking it out for shakedown runs after all the maint/mods done to it...ill go out and beat on it this weekend and get some more pics.

heres a side shot...has 25" of clearance at the rockers..I was pleased.

[NEOCON1]

nice beast

[jackal_71]

Wow that thing looks badass! Nice job.

[Sillyneck]

sick as hell!

[stjames151]

F-n loud I'm sure. Funny how little it takes. Do the 2.5-3" body lift. Its easy and worth it. If you're good with a tube bender, you can do 4+ That will give you 44" in the clear depending on width. This shit is addictive. Great lookin truck tho.

[HUMMERDOGG]

st. james-

Do you have a pic of your truck? Also, what are you alluding to with the comment regarding being good with a tube fender and gaining 4"?

-hdogg

[ycis]

kinda curious about that myself...what on earth would a tube bender have to do with doing a body lift on an h1?

If I were to do a body lift...id get rid of the suspension spacers...they really make an already bad ride...nearly unbearable.

[BigKofJustice]

Originally Posted by ycis

kinda curious about that myself...what on earth would a tube bender have to do with doing a body lift on an h1?

If I were to do a body lift...id get rid of the suspension spacers...they really make an already bad ride...nearly unbearable.

Tube bender? H1? Huh?

What spacer kit are you using? I heard the Ducks kit with the balljoints and spacing shims to maintain factory angles on the ball joints is a good setup.

I wonder if its better to get someone to custom bend new springs instead of using spacers.

[stjames151]

Oh sorry, you gotta re-run most of the brake lines and some linkage to get that far up. I think 2.75 is as far as you can go without it. I meant a hard line bender. As far as the shims go, I've heard of guys using billet ball joints and having no problems without shims. The shims can be made at almost any CNC shop if you really want them. I took the original front springs and put them in the back to soften it up after I put the rear spacers in and that helped the ride a lot, but I don't tow or carry much weight usually and got the "BlueHummer extended winch springs". Gonna get rear springs made pretty soon and get rid of the spacers.

[ycis]

eh...im using 4 spring spacers...I got them from blue hummer.

after I ordered them they came out with a front spring replacement vs just the spacers...so what can ya do.

If I were to do it again...I would NOT use the winch springs on the front in combo with the spacers...i could have just welded in an iron pipe and gotten the same ride effect...the front suspension has no sag at all....and if my oem front springs werent completely shot id put them back on with just the spacers.

I dont notice any difference in the balljoint angle with the spacers installed vs just springs...its the exact same gap between the two...the new spacer is just applying much more force downard on the lca to push the truck up. if that angle were a problem youd bust balljoints left and right going over bumps where the suspension got extended.

Im sure the duck kit is fantastic...everything ive ever ordered from him has been top notch...but people have been using spring spacers for as long as they have been using coil spring suspensions =)

in a perfect world id have 4 longer springs front and rear vs the spacers to at least allow for the suspension to work somewhat.

[ycis]

hoods on

[AtlantaK-5er]

Is that amsteel cable on that Mile Marker? I am putting mine on there soon. I have the 120ft line with the fire rope as the first 10 ft & safety termination. I hope it fits!

[Big91RustyBucket]

Damn A hummer that isn't a bummer. Looks sick. I love boggers , and it really gives that truck attitude.

[4Mogger]

I would like to see your wheels up close. Especially the CTIS parts--where do the lines run? what does the hub disconnect look like?
Who made your wheels for you?

[iniviate]

Stazworks wheels.... and i don't *think* he has the CTIS hooked up to them, but i think that might be for other issues.

[ycis]

Originally Posted by AtlantaK-5er

Is that amsteel cable on that Mile Marker? I am putting mine on there soon. I have the 120ft line with the fire rope as the first 10 ft & safety termination. I hope it fits!

yessir...100' of amsteel cable...came with the winch kit from alien. i really was amazed at how heavy 100' of steel cable was that came off the winch to begin with!

The cover on the front is actually a bit TOO big...i cant reel the cable in any further without destroying the cover...its all bunched up as much as it possibly can be and it still hangs down where you see it.

if i were to really take it offroad id let more of it out and hook the cable up to the airlift hooks for easier access and so it wouldnt catch shit in that loop.

[ycis]

Originally Posted by 4Mogger

I would like to see your wheels up close. Especially the CTIS parts--where do the lines run? what does the hub disconnect look like?
Who made your wheels for you?

ctis system leaks too bad to have it hooked up at the moment...but the fittings are all there.

when i get around to replacing the parts that leak (everything) ill rehook it all back up.

until then its just got regular valve stems in all the tires....i inflate/deflate manually using the ctis pump and a coil hose from harbor freight.

but yea...as chris said they are stazworks double beadlock rims 16.5x12 with 6.5" backspacing

[stjames151]

Also could be USA6x6. Not my favorite group after a couple bad experiences, but that doesn't mean they make crappy gear. CTIS, "tough look", bling....all usually add weight, cost, maintenance, and without benefit. Granted, CTIS is convenient, but over rated, and under assessed with regard to potential shortcomings IMHO. When it comes to CTIS, you either hear "Why does it take you so long to air up/down?" or "I cant figure out why there's a problem/ how to fix this." I'd rather take an extra 3mins. in exchange for not having 4 flats on a trail.

[ycis]

could be usa6x6? not really sure what you mean...they are stazworks rims as mentioned twice above.

Ive heard too many negative things about usa6x6 to spend that kind of cash on those rims.

[ron b]

Originally Posted by stjames151

Also could be USA6x6. Not my favorite group after a couple bad experiences, but that doesn't mean they make crappy gear. CTIS, "tough look", bling....all usually add weight, cost, maintenance, and without benefit. Granted, CTIS is convenient, but over rated, and under assessed with regard to potential shortcomings IMHO. When it comes to CTIS, you either hear "Why does it take you so long to air up/down?" or "I cant figure out why there's a problem/ how to fix this." I'd rather take an extra 3mins. in exchange for not having 4 flats on a trail.

sounds like you've had a bad experience. They do all leak a bit (so does any air system) but niether me nor the h1's I wheel with have ever had ctis issues. Well...I recently had a stuck inflate valve but a hit from my maglight freed it up. If there is a major problem just use the shrader on the disconnect to fill the tires.

[stjames151]

Originally Posted by ycis

could be usa6x6? not really sure what you mean...they are stazworks rims as mentioned twice above.

missed that

[4Mogger]

Originally Posted by stjames151

CTIS, "tough look", bling....all usually add weight, cost, maintenance, and without benefit. Granted, CTIS is convenient, but over rated, and under assessed with regard to potential shortcomings IMHO. When it comes to CTIS, you either hear "Why does it take you so long to air up/down?" or "I cant figure out why there's a problem/ how to fix this." I'd rather take an extra 3mins. in exchange for not having 4 flats on a trail.

Without benefit? I can air up all four 40" tires from absolute zero to road pressure in less than 2 minutes...and drive at the same time. It takes longer to air down, but again, I can drive at the same time. If designed correctly, the system can be very reliable and extremely fast. As for your "extra 3 minutes" I think it is more like 10-15 minutes and you still need a reliable source for compressed air/CO2. I have no experience with H1's but I suspect that the compressor is not up to the task speed-wise.