Scout II BUILD with Rockwells, Cummins 12V, and 46" Claws - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > International Harvester
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-25-2012, 06:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Scout II BUILD with Rockwells, Cummins 12V, and 46" Claws

First off, a little background on this build:

This Scout received its first suspension modifications in the late 90's with a set of Skyjacker 4" lift springs and extended shackles running on 33"x12.50" tires.

In 2005 I took the Scout to a local 4WD shop and had a SOA conversion done using the Skyjacker springs and the factory Dana 44's. I set it on some 37"x14.50" Toyo MT's, and ordered a package deal on a set of ARB air lockers, ARB compressor, and 5.13 ring and pinions for the front and rear axles. However I was less than pleased with the suspension work done by the local shop so I decided to re-do it myself using GM 3/4 Ton axles. So I sourced a big bearing Dana 44HD for the front and a 14BFF for the rear from the local PNP. I sold one of the Dana 44 ARB's and gear sets and bought one of the first 14BFF ARB's with a corresponding set of 5.13 gears to match the front. I also bought Yukon Chromo Shafts and Superjoints for the front Dana 44. By the time I finished compiling most of the major parts for the build Mickey Thompson released news that they would be making a 46" Baja Claw, at the time the largest tires available were the Interco TSL's and Boggers both in 44" sizes...so I decided that I wanted to run the Baja Claws. So, I sold off the 3/4 Ton Dana 44 stuff and started looking for a Dana 60 front. Around this time I bought a set of overstocked Mickey Thompson 20"x10" Classic Lock wheels with the 8 on 6.5" lug pattern to wrap the Claws around.

I had been toying with the idea of running Rockwells but I didn't want to sell my wheels and all the 1 Ton stuff I already had. So I was determined to use a D60/14BFF combo and beef them up as needed with trusses, chromo shafts, joints, Dedenbear knuckles and C's, etc. Well, as it goes...while I was looking for a D60 front I came across a good deal on a set of Rockwells that were pretty close, so I bit the bullet, bought them and sold off all my 1 Ton stuff. That leaves me to where I am at today...

Since I was swapping all of the factory suspension, axles, drivetrain, etc. I determined that I wanted to keep the Scout body and use the Scout frame as a platform considering the fact that there wouldn't be much IH left...I need some IH left, heck I'm an IH fanatic so that was my compromise.

I was entertaining the idea of setting up a 4 link in the rear and a 3 link front with coilovers to get the Rockwells under the Scout...but, the more I looked at it I decided to use leafs primarily to speed up the build, and because of the cost. Plus I like the bulletproof simplicity of leafs and I decided that since I was building a full-bodied Scout with the Scout frame I wanted to build a trick leaf setup and keep the retro look of leafs to fit my 70's era Scout. I started this phase of the build in June 2010 by putting the Scout frame on jack stands and torching off all of the factory spring hangers and removing the suspension, axles, etc. The specs on this stage of the build are below.

Specs (with more info/tech to follow):


- International Scout II frame and body
- 2.5 Ton Rockwell Axles
- Chevy leaf spring front and rear
- '95 Cummins 12V 6BTA (P-Pumped)
- GM Th475 tranny
- GM Np203/Ford Np 205 Doubler
- 19.5/46-20 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws
- 20"x14" custom designed Stazworks double bead locks

...and some other miscellaneous stuff


I haven't been the best about taking pictures so I will post up what I have...keep in mind that I have been working on this off and on since June of 2010 so most of what is to come is already done. Anyhow, on to the build...

Last edited by Blak Falken; 01-26-2012 at 12:59 AM.
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 07:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Pics or it didn't happen...

For the heck of it, here were some of my parts I sold off:

Dana 44 Yukon Chromo shafts, Superjoints, ARB, 5.13's, install kit...
Attached Images
     
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 01-25-2012, 08:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Pics or it didn't happen...

14BFF ARB, 5.13's, install kit, MT Classic Locks...
Attached Images
     
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 08:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Suspension/Leaf Springs

After torching off all of the OEM spring hangers the first order of business was to find some leaf springs for the swap.

For the suspension I was considering using Ford 57" springs for the front and rear, or Chevy 63" springs for the rear and Chevy 52" springs for the front. I liked that the Ford springs were 3.00" wide, which was 0.50" wider than the Chevy springs, but I also liked that Chevy had a spring that was 63" eye to eye.

My plan was to use OEM leaf springs because the quality is good, and they have very little to no arch which means a better riding and more flexible suspension. So I headed down to the local PNP with a tape measure and started looking around. After some deliberation considering the available options I decided to pull Chevy 63" springs for the rear axle swap. I found some Chevy 56" springs that use a 4.0" offset center pin, I wanted to use the longest springs possible in the front while keeping my approach decent...these fit the bill.

I pulled the 56" springs from the rear of a 1990 Chevy 3/4 ton Suburban, the 63" springs came from the rear of a 1988 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup. Both trucks had just minor dents, wear, and grime/buildup in the bed area so I concluded that they weren't used as work trucks...so most likely the springs probably had a fairly easy life, out they came.

Here they are loaded up in the bed of my truck:
Attached Images
 
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 09:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
I pulled the overload springs out from each pack, removed the "anti-friction" pads (these collect dirt particles and create more friction and wear), ground tapers into the end of each spring, reamed the center pin holes for 7/16" center pins, pressed out the old rubber bushings, and cut the sleeves out. I then sanded each leaf, dusted them with some paint, re-assembled, and put new polyurethane bushings in...good as new.

The Energy Suspension part numbers for polyurethane bushings for Chevy springs from '88-'98 trucks are: 32128R for Red and 32128G for Black.

I eventually ended up making bastard packs out of them. The 63's were 5 leaf packs with the overloads removed and the 56's were 6 leaf packs with the overloads removed. I pulled another set of 63" springs and cut down leafs to add into the other packs. The 56's I made into 8 leaf packs, and the 63's I made into 6 leaf packs...hopefully this will help with axle wrap, and support the weight of the Cummins, flex, etc. I may end up taking out leafs or adding more, that will be determined on the shakedown run.

These are the Prothane bushings that I got from Ballistic originally that didn't fit:
Attached Images
  
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 10:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
IH/Rover Moderator
 
Old Scout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 17
Location: Aptos,Ca
Posts: 13,443
Send a message via ICQ to Old Scout
ohh my, do you really think we care about what you sold?
__________________
I like beer. On occasion, I will even drink beer to celebrate a major event such as the fall of communism or the fact that the refrigerator is still working."

BUY MY BOAT
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/misc-...e-history.html

Last edited by Old Scout; 01-25-2012 at 10:34 PM.
Old Scout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2012, 11:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
ohh my, do you really think we care about what you sold?
Do I care what you think? NO.

Does it show the progression of a build through the years? YES. So that's why its there, don't read it if you don't want to.
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Rockwells

Next on the priority list was the axles...I found a good deal on a set of Rockwells with rollers. They were low mileage units which came out of a '72 M35A2, the front had the good Spicer style u-joint shafts.

Here is what they looked like when I got them:
Attached Images
  
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
I then had the multiple layers of military olive drab paint, beige paint, and grease buildup sandblasted off. They were taken down to bare metal, so I gave them a quick coat of primer and tore them down to the housings.
Attached Images
   
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Once they were stripped down to empty housings I cut off the diff pans and put the gear chunks back in to take some measurements. From there I designed "Mohawk" diff pans, had them laser cut out of 0.375" steel, and fabbed up.
Attached Images
  
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
bigal1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Member # 119174
Location: ohio
Posts: 449
Nice write up so far,keep it coming !
bigal1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigal1 View Post
Nice write up so far,keep it coming !
Thanks, I really appreciate it.
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Here's how the diff pans turned, in hindsight I would have done some things differently but they will work. I tried to keep the oil capacity up and provide clearance under the bull gear incase a bolt came loose and ended up in the bottom of the pan...so I gave up a little clearance under the axle to meet my design intentions.
Attached Images
  
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 01:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Member # 186552
Location: Clovis, CA
Posts: 195
This build thread makes me wanna kill the mofawker that stole my scout...

Subscribed!
This is gunna be interesting.
__________________
Too much junk...
not2hye is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 01:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
The next hurdle with the Rockwells was the brakes, I didn't want to go the pinion/driveline brake route so the only option was to convert all four corners to disk brakes. I wanted to design my own caliper mounts for a custom "one-off" look to match the rest of my custom parts for the Scout. This meant alot of time considering solutions, taking measurements, and primarily spending some quality time on Solidworks...more to come on that.

First off, my buddy had a buddy who was parting out a '99 F-550...so I ended up with four F-550 calipers, then I bought four F-700 rotors that use the same 6 on 8.75" Rockwell lug pattern. In order for the wheel hubs to slip into the rotors the OD of the wheel hubs had to be turned down, and the ID of the rotors had to be opened up, the wheel stud holes in the rotors also had to be reamed out for new wheel studs.

My buddy who who is a professional certified welder has helped me out with all of the heavy stick welding, and he also did the machine work on these parts.

Here are some pics of the wheel hubs being machined:
Attached Images
    
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 01:31 AM   #16 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Here are the rotors pre-machining, fresh out of the box.
Attached Images
  
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 01:39 AM   #17 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Here are the rotors on the lathe, and a hub slipped into a rotor once both were for machined for a clearance fit:
Attached Images
     
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 01:47 AM   #18 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by not2hye View Post
This build thread makes me wanna kill the mofawker that stole my scout...

Subscribed!
This is gunna be interesting.
Sorry to hear about your Scout, that's a shame.

Thanks for the interest.
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 02:04 AM   #19 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Member # 186552
Location: Clovis, CA
Posts: 195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blak Falken View Post
Sorry to hear about your Scout, that's a shame.

Thanks for the interest.
It does bring a tear LOL. $300 for a scout with 42k miles, original belts and tires and I was all over it.

But since I no longer possess mine, ill just drool on yours.
__________________
Too much junk...
not2hye is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 11:23 AM   #20 (permalink)
Registered User
 
LibertySand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Member # 178400
Location: Montclair, CA
Posts: 567
Send a message via AIM to LibertySand
__________________
You are my Crumple Zone!

MY 76 LOADSTAR RESCUE/RV
LibertySand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:34 PM   #21 (permalink)
223
is gettin it
 
223's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Member # 169361
Location: oregone
Posts: 778
just outa curiousity y arent u running really beadlocks?
223 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 12:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
Registered User
 
LibertySand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Member # 178400
Location: Montclair, CA
Posts: 567
Send a message via AIM to LibertySand
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blak Falken View Post

Specs (with more info/tech to follow):


- International Scout II frame and body
- 2.5 Ton Rockwell Axles
- Chevy leaf spring front and rear
- '95 Cummins 12V 6BTA (P-Pumped)
- GM Th475 tranny
- GM Np203/Ford Np 205 Doubler
- 19.5/46-20 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws
- 20"x14" custom designed Stazworks double bead locks

...and some other miscellaneous stuff
223, Your more of a picture book kinda guy huh?
__________________
You are my Crumple Zone!

MY 76 LOADSTAR RESCUE/RV

Last edited by LibertySand; 01-27-2012 at 08:49 AM. Reason: It needed a Smiley
LibertySand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 05:42 PM   #23 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Member # 206164
Location: Northern California
Posts: 176
After all of the wheel hubs and rotors were machined, I threw the wheel hubs in a blast cabinet and cleaned them up, then they got a couple light coats of primer.

Because the wheel stud flange on the rotors was roughly 0.75" thick (about 0.50" thicker than the drum brakes) I had to source wheel studs with a longer splined shoulder...this proved to be somewhat difficult. I didn't find any info/part numbers online, so I visited a couple of big rig shops...didn't have any luck. I eventually found a wheel stud from NAPA that was perfect, meaning that when the wheel stud was pulled through the rotor and into the wheel hub the splined shoulder of the stud sat just below the plane of the wheel hubs that the wheels mount to. I will try to dig up a part number on the wheel studs and post it up.

Here is the difference in the studs:
Attached Images
 
Blak Falken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #24 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BennyBooster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Member # 186066
Location: Medford, Oregon
Posts: 253
I am loving this truck
__________________
1996 Ranger Caged, 1 tons in progress
1986 F350 gave 1 tons to him^^
BennyBooster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2012, 09:59 PM   #25 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member # 124390
Location: kootenays canada
Posts: 34
looks good...keep the photos coming....
__________________
I will run u over for FREE!!!!
shoobear1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.