71 Scout II - Gutting the electrical this weekend - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:18 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I didn't even think about the ground control on the dome light circuit. Trying to make progress this afternoon, so I need some of the gremlins to take a break.
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:33 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Make sure you have a good bonding strap from the motor to the body and also from the battery to the frame/body and this will help with the issues also help with the electronic ign.
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Old 03-24-2012, 06:54 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Day 6 - Post Mortem

1. Wires routed to rear of vehicle. Had to lengthen a couple of wires and took my time making sure everything was secured and tucked away from the exhaust. Wasn't able to use the inside frame rail routing.

2. Front lights are working, but I have a turn signal socket is bad. The disk, rubber grommet, and wires are all rotted. Not sure how it worked before.

Working on rear wiring completion and gauges tomorrow. Trying to figure out what to do about the socket tonight. It's integrated into the housing, so I am debating on whether to find another one or get a Chevy socket and drill the old one out. Probably going with the modification of the current housing.

Six days 24 hours invested.
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Old 03-24-2012, 06:58 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I need to check on the bonding straps. I know I have one from the battery to motor and motor to body. I need to see if there is one to the frame, as I didn't check that.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:21 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Go here to repair you light socket, has all the info you need including part number. Check out post #239

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...103818&page=24
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:57 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Thanks for the heads up on the socket. I didn't see the post until after I had already engineered a solution. I found a universal socket that fit a 1157, drilled the housing to accept the new socket and epoxied it in place. Will post how it goes. Managed to run out of barrel connectors, electrical tape, and patience tonight. I hit one of those runs where everything that could go wrong did. Hoping for a fresh run on the middle of the week.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:00 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Day 7 - Post Mortem

Finished the gauges. The indicators are working, but I can't get the panel lights working. I have done something wrong, just not sure what it is. Will look more today. Have the left tail light, troubleshooting the right-front blinker, troubleshooting the panel lights, and putting it all back together.

Up to 28 hours.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:32 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Done.

Finished yesterday afternoon, adding another six hours. Total was 32. What I learned:

1. I needed more of the barrel connectors and less of the ring and spade connectors than I thought.

2. I should have bought 50' of the 1/2 inch loom and 25' of the 1/4 inch loom. I ran out of the 1/2 and still have a boatload of the 1/4.

3. I did the right thing buying electrical tape by the sleeve. I used eight roles.

4. I should have replaced the gauges at the same time. Not looking forward to doing that as a separate project.

5. I don't solder enough to be good at it. Had to build a CVR for the old gauges (see #4) and burned the crap out of my thumb.

6. Research helps. I bought a marine common hot bus and build a common ground, which made things easier. If I had to do it again, I would have bought the 14 circuit. I bought the 22 before I got the recommendation. I will legitimately use about half of the extra circuits that I have, which isn't worth the headache of the wires you have to stow.

7. You will need to reuse pieces of the old harness, especially around the gauges and the lights (see #4). Gauges ended up working. Dash illumination lights never did. Where I am going to replace the entire gauge panel, I Southern Engineered some LEDs to light the dash until I do the replacement.

8. Zip ties are your friend. Conduit clips also did well.

9. Help from a 9 and 11 year old acts as a productivity enhancer, adding about 6-8 hours to the job. The time spent teaching lessons about why we do things like putting screws in labeled bags, take the battery cable off when we are working with hot wires, and what fuses look like when they blow was well worth the extra time.

10. Buy extra fuses. I blew three working on the head and tail lights due to user error.

11. I ended up having to replace the light switch. The Scout switch was $37 at O'Reilly's, the switch for an '85 Chevy suburban was $15. For the record, the Chevy switch fit.

12. The Scout service manual is a critical piece of the puzzle. Don't do the job without it, as the EZ Wiring instructions are generic.

13. Old tail lights and marker lights are fragile.

14. The flexible metal tubing that is used for preheating the intake air in 2" will work for replacing the defrost hoses that will dissolve when you remove them.

15. When your wife buys you a creeper because you are using cardboard, your youngest son will immediately adopt the creeper as his "job" and you will still use cardboard. Again, worth it.

16. The Internet is your friend. I found the CVR fix, the trouble shooting for my gauges, and solutions to several other issues online. Pirate has great information on alternators and electrical in the tech section that I strongly recommend.

Thanks to everyone on here that provided information. The next to projects in the queue are the roll cage (going with a full cage with an IH Customs front and custom bent mid and rear hoop) and an on-board air system (still trying to decide between an electric compressor and going with a modification of the a/c compressor).
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:55 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhp997 View Post

8. Zip ties are your friend. Conduit clips also did well.


14. The flexible metal tubing that is used for preheating the intake air in 2" will work for replacing the defrost hoses that will dissolve when you remove them.

16. The Internet is your friend. I found the CVR fix, the trouble shooting for my gauges, and solutions to several other issues online. Pirate has great information on alternators and electrical in the tech section that I strongly recommend.
8. I don't know where to get them, but I have some zip ties that have rings on the ends so once you bundle your wires you can just sheet metal screw it down.

14. I found some OEM style fabric tubing at a semi truck shop years ago fwiw.

16. Hell yeah! It's worth having internet in your shop if you don't already.
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Also, instead of mounting the nitrous bottle between the seats, I'd install a cheese toaster.
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