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Old 03-19-2003, 09:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Dame Man my eyes are bleeding. Bling Bling, how many coats of Glossy clear did ya spray on that chit???
14 coats of hand rubbed lacquer Naaa... just one coat of Rustoleum gloss black.
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:00 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Reattached pics as requested....
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:59 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Reattached pics as requested....
well re-attach them again. Most of them are good old red "X"s'


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Old 10-04-2011, 02:58 PM   #29 (permalink)
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well re-attach them again. Most of them are good old red "X"s'


holy fuck this is an old post...
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Old 10-04-2011, 03:12 PM   #30 (permalink)
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well re-attach them again. Most of them are good old red "X"s'


They are still attached. The red X's are the original attachments. Notice there are the same number of pics as there are red X's. Back in '08 I uploaded the pics to Pirate instead of links to another site that has long since been dead and burried.
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:09 PM   #31 (permalink)
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This post is old as the hills but very helpful to rebuild and tap out a scout box but it would be nice a few more pics and/or links to more taped out scout II boxes
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:57 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Great thred very helpful going to tackle this right now
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:56 AM   #33 (permalink)
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funny this thread gets bumped up now as I was just going to do so myself.


Just got a scout2 box back from PSC rebuilt/tapped. Found the places they drilled the ports interesting.









One port is clearly drilled and tapped into the large flat surface on the inside of the box but the other seems to have a nipple welded/glued/somethinged to the case.

Thought it might be a good option for someone who needs their lines on the inside of the frame.


Ive had really good luck with the rebuild kits from www.rockauto.com. Its very complete except for missing one of the steering shaft bearings (chevy box's only have one which is what the generic kit is for) but it looks like they have it so you can buy just one of those now.


also a very good step by step rebuild how to here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...57133&t=570869

Last edited by dboy; 08-09-2012 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:34 PM   #34 (permalink)
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also a very good step by step rebuild how to here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...57133&t=570869
That is the rebuild thread I used when I did mine a couple years back.

Don't mix the balls up!
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:25 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Don't mix the balls up!
Good advise even when not rebuilding a steering box...
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:15 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I did this.


And had no troubles with the powercraft kit from AZ, except for the missing bearing. Looking back I think a guy would be fine not removing the ball screw from the piston. You don't replace anything in there anyway and this would keep the devil balls in place. It's been awhile but I remember them being a pita to keep in.

And our local carquest has all the p.s. line adapters you could ever need. AN is just a lower pressure version of JIC, you can interchange knowing that the AN pressure limit is the one you have to respect.
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:39 AM   #37 (permalink)
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I did this.


And had no troubles with the powercraft kit from AZ, except for the missing bearing. Looking back I think a guy would be fine not removing the ball screw from the piston. You don't replace anything in there anyway and this would keep the devil balls in place. It's been awhile but I remember them being a pita to keep in.

And our local carquest has all the p.s. line adapters you could ever need. AN is just a lower pressure version of JIC, you can interchange knowing that the AN pressure limit is the one you have to respect.



I like your location for the ram assist ports better than any i have seen on the web. can you give me any details on exactly where you put them or what they tied into. i have my box all apart and will tap them as soon as you can give me some feedback. The look close to the OEM ports for pump, do they interfere in any way. How deep did you drill each port.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:47 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Ok a bump for this thread.

I need to replace the input shaft on my box. Anybody got a source for one?
I could look in the JY, but finding the same shaft might a bit of work.

I'm stealing the one off my spare box for now.

I made a spanner wrench like pictured and it worked great.


Next issue is PSC is using a modified input shaft. The are changing the bearing to make this work. The stock shaft is a bit fatter in the middle, but PSC either buys or uses a lathe to make the shaft all 3/4" This change was done when the box was sent to PSC. They stamp the face of the part that screws in showing a PSC part number too.
Pic's to follow.


What type of Saginaw box do Scouts have?
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:20 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I like your location for the ram assist ports better than any i have seen on the web. can you give me any details on exactly where you put them or what they tied into. i have my box all apart and will tap them as soon as you can give me some feedback. The look close to the OEM ports for pump, do they interfere in any way. How deep did you drill each port.
If you have it apart and the valve out, you'll see exactly what I did. This taps directly into the port in the box that gets fluid from the valve, shortest route possible and bypassis the long 1/8" rifle bore to the front of the box.
For the one between the oem pressure and return, it's located exactly between the two OEM ports. I *think* I just did the 7/16" hole all the way through but check on the inside of the box to make sure this isn't too wide.

I think the one on the back was much less critical. Just get it in there in that general area and you're good. Again, with the box apart, look inside and it will be obvious.
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Old 09-17-2013, 01:42 PM   #40 (permalink)
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What type of Saginaw box do Scouts have?
I think it is only a Scout box -- but some of the parts have to interchange, I've just never spent enough time trying.
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Old 09-17-2013, 02:44 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I think it is only a Scout box -- but some of the parts have to interchange, I've just never spent enough time trying.
Figured out its a 700 box. I know the sector shaft is inter changeable with the early broncos.

Saginaw boxes found their way into Ford, Dodge, GM, IH, and Jeep trucks. So a trip to the junk yard is needed.
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:11 AM   #42 (permalink)
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OK so I finally got some time in the JY..

I picked up a Chevy 83 box out of a 1988 chevy truck.
the input shaft assy is interchangeable, but the piston is not.

I then meet Jeremy at pick and pull, whats the odds. he was getting a Jeep Cherokee box for his scout 800. I had read the older Jeeps used the 700 boxes.

I found a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee and pulled the box.
What do you know all the internal parts are a match

even the input.
Sweet I can rebuild my box
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Old 06-29-2014, 12:34 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Cool. There are a gazillion of those in the junk yards now too. If you break the Scout box all the way down I've always wanted to know the diameter of the factory torsion bar. The Cherokee I'm guessing has a thicker bar which gives better road feel.
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:40 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I ordered a power steering rebuilt kit 8522 from Amazon

As for the torsion bar, I messed up there. I turned some of the old parts back in for a core. I forgot all about the torsion bar.
I did notice that p sc modified the ports on the valve body to a drill size of 35, the stock valve body is drill size 52. A stock torsion bar is about 3/16 but did not measure it. I believe p sc turns theirs down. look at the pic for the other hole sizes
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:22 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Good info. That (PSC or Scout?) bar looks like a thinner one. Thin bars are around 0.175, thick 0.200 +.


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Old 08-08-2014, 04:45 AM   #46 (permalink)
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This is in need of a bump

Working on the getting the steering box ready for the 800 and have a few things bouncing around the head.

The one I have to use right now is one that I took off the trail rig when it started making popping noises. It turned out that one of the balls had broken almost perfectly in half. Not trusting the rack or anything in it from being all chewed up, I grabbed the one I had gotten from dboy for the 800, tapped it for hydro asist, rebuilt it and installed it instead. Now I got to get it back together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by R290 View Post
I found a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee and pulled the box.
What do you know all the internal parts are a match

even the input.
Sweet I can rebuild my box
From this I should be easily able to come up with the internals I need. What I found out is the part number for this one fits a whole list of vehicals, which are:

American Motors
Eagle 1980-1988

Cadillac
Brougham 1991-1992
Fleetwood 1994-1996

Chevy
Blazer 2000-20005
S10 Blazer 1983-1994
S10 Pickup 1982-1994

GMC
Jimmy 1992-2004
S15 Jimmy 1983-1991
S15 Pickup 1982-1990
Sonoma 1991-1994
Syclone 1991
Typhoon 1992-1993

Jeep
Cherokee 1984-2001
Comanche 1986-1992
Grand Cherokee 1993-1995
Wagoneer 1984-1990

Oldsmobile
Bravada 1991-1994

Pontiac
Bonneville 1983-1986


Quote:
Originally Posted by 472Scout View Post
If you break the Scout box all the way down I've always wanted to know the diameter of the factory torsion bar. The Cherokee I'm guessing has a thicker bar which gives better road feel.
I am wondering why the larger torsion bar would give it a better road feel? It is my Friday and about 0330, but I cant make my mind make since of that

Also, what are the thoughts on doing the mods to it that were done to the PSC box and oversizing the holes, would it be worth it?

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Old 08-08-2014, 11:09 PM   #47 (permalink)
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The thicker torsion bar doesn't twist as easily, giving you more feel of what's happening at the tire.
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Old 08-11-2014, 01:00 AM   #48 (permalink)
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The thicker bar was added in later years because people were over steering with power steering.

My 71 Chevy pickup has one finger steering all the time, and at any speed.

The engineers were trying to give some road feel back to the drivers to prevent accidents. When it comes to offloading at slow speeds its a mute point.


Knowing were to buy new internal parts would be nice, vs buying JK parts with 181,000 miles on them
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