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Old 08-11-2015, 09:58 AM   #226 (permalink)
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Take a picture of the baby every month for the first 2 years, you will be amazed at how much they change.
Oh trust me I know, here's a recent shot of the munchkin

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Old 08-11-2015, 06:49 PM   #227 (permalink)
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I could do Rivnuts (Nutcerts). The stupid engineer in me wants the hardware to be the same as the fenders, which for some unfathomable reason are 5/16-24 (fine thread).
The engineer in you should go-ahead and make the change. Did you stick with the left hand lugnutts on the left side of the truck? Come on make a change for the good
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:12 AM   #228 (permalink)
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Not sure why having to chase down 2 different size sockets to take off the fenders would be better?

I did find 5/16-24 rivnuts so I guess that's an option.

Axles are already changed over to normal RH lugnuts
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:15 PM   #229 (permalink)
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mcmaster is where I got all my nutserts/rivnuts and hardware. I converted most everything over the allen head 5/16 hardware. Stainless in some areas that i expected to get wet a lot.
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:20 AM   #230 (permalink)
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MotoDave,

Love the build! Nice work!

The seats look really nice. I've posted a "80/800's seat survey" to collect feedback about the different types of seats that are used in the 80 & 800's. If you haven't already, would you mind taking the survey and letting the community know what your experience has been with these particular seats? www.tinyurl.com/scout80800s-SeatSurvey

Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:07 PM   #231 (permalink)
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Another lame update, whatever. I've been sneaking in time when I can find it, sure doesn't feel like much progress though.

Moved the passenger side motor mount to clear the header.


Made clearance for the headers in the firewall. The pictures make it look like its closer than it really is, I was aiming for 1"+ of air space around the headers. The firewall will get the same sound + thermal coating as the underside of the truck, plus a layer of heat shielding (Aluminum w/ fiberglass backing stuff from DEI).





Checked for clearance at full bump with the new motor - turns out the LS series engines use a larger diameter crank pulley than a TBI 350, but I still have clearance. Also looks like the front driveshaft will clear the oil pan and starter just fine, and the deep truck oil pan clears the front diff too. It hangs down more than I'd prefer but I can swap it out for a lower profile pan later on if it bugs me or becomes an issue.


I finished up the master cylinder mount, and machined a post for the hydroboost clevis to attach to. Trying to preemptively cut out any sources of rattles so I designed it to have a wave spring to preload the parts together.


Where the post gets welded into the brake pedal:


Not entering the pretty welds post just yet First time welding stainless to mild steel, turned out OK.


In case anyone's wondering, McMaster P/N 1281N24 is a dead ringer for the brake and clutch pedal bushings.

I machined an adapter for the master cylinder to the hydroboost unit, only need this because the HB unit is clocked up so the accumulator clears the inner fender and steering column.




I have an idea of how I want to build the steering column mounts, which will be the next project. It'll be nice to be able to steer the truck if only to move it around the garage.

I'll be tackling the Engine wiring & plumbing soon, and sending the ECU out to get VATS and emissions removed and get it set up to run stand alone. I have some plans for the engine harness that should be simple and clean, will share that soon hopefully.
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Old 11-09-2015, 01:24 PM   #232 (permalink)
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Looking good!

Any reason you chose weld a stud on rather than just a clevis to the pedal arm? Pushrod alignment, pedal ratio, or you just wanted to show off your mad lathe skillz?
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:58 AM   #233 (permalink)
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It happened to work out the the hydroboost pushrod was a usable length, so I wanted to keep the stock-ish attachment method (post on the side of the pedal). This also let me space the HB unit a bit further towards the engine to have room for the lines to clear the clutch master cylinder.

And who doesn't justify having fun toys like a lathe by making totally unnecessary complications for themselves
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:22 AM   #234 (permalink)
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I got the brake pedal mods finished up, rebuilt the main pedal pivot with the above mentioned flanged bushings from McMaster, and got it all bolted into the truck. This let me figure out where the gas pedal wanted to be, and modify the Silverado Drive by Wire pedal to work. I used measurements off my DD Tundra to figure out where the pedal should be in relation to the brake, and it worked out pretty well. The brake and clutch pedals are in the stock location, adn there's still room for a dead pedal space to rest your foot - depending on how I build the cage this may get compromised a bit).





I bent up a bracket that adapts the GM (Suburban?) tilt steering column I have to the stock scout mounts. I think I will reinforce this by tying into the brake pedal mount, but it works for now.





Cut the Borgeson steering shaft to length and got it instsalled, its nice to be able to steer the truck around, even just for moving it around the garage. Also, I may have sat in the seat and made Vroom noises for a while.

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Old 12-08-2015, 09:23 AM   #235 (permalink)
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Next up was tackling the engine wiring harness. I went back and forth about sending it out or buying a pre-made harness, but in the end just decided to tackle it myself.

A few nights in the garage after the kiddo went to sleep got me from this



to this



to this



I used split braided loom (LINK), with self-fusing tape (LINK) to tie up the branches (the gray stuff - doesn't stick to the wires).


I'm happy enough with how it came out, and glad I did it myself - I have a much better understanding of what everything is and where it goes on the motor.

I used a lot of info on Brendan's website to sort out the loom, and had him program the ECU to remove VATS & emissions stuff, so I'll leave him a plug here: LT1 Swap

I think the easiest place to mount the ECU, engine fuse block and body fuse blocks will be the tops of the fenders, so I worked on making the inner fenders that I cut off able to be bolted back on I tacked weld nuts to the back side of the relevant flanges on the firewall & inner fender, and used button head cap screws to bolt it back in place, since they'll be visible in the cab of the truck.







Got the main parts of the fuel system sorted out. Bosch 044 fuel pump, with a 100 micron pre-filter and a 10 micron Aeromotive filter after the pump.


Adapters for the push-on connectors at the fuel rail to AN fitting ends. I'm going to try using color coding to dummy proof the fuel lines - Blue/Red = Pressure, Black = Return.


I'm just going to run off of 1 of the saddle tanks for now, with eventual plans to use the saddle tanks as reserve fuel capacity and run off a main tank between the frame rails.

I'm pushing to fire the motor up before the end of the year, so I'll be working on building the engine fuse block next up.
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Old 01-01-2016, 12:05 PM   #236 (permalink)
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Fuel tank questions for the new year ...

I want to get the truck running off of one of the saddle tanks for now, just to get moving. Eventually I want to find/build a tank behind the back axle that holds around 20 gallons, and use one/both or the saddle tanks as extra capacity for long trips, but that can come later.

The drivers saddle tank was already cleaned up and lined (por15 or similar, I'm assuming). I've been reading on the scout forums and my tank seems to be somewhat oddball, in that it doesn't have any pickup coming out of the top of the tank. The only openings are for the filler neck, fuel level sensor, and the drain port on the bottom of the tank.

Options as I see them are:

Pull off the bottom of the tank - easiest option, but worries me that I'll be putting too much junk through the pump.

Weld a bung in the top of the tank where the normal pickup location is and make a pickup tube - I think this would collect less junk but has more 'head' for the pump to overcome.

Weld a pickup bung in the side of the tank - less head to overcome, better than a bottom of the tank pickup, but more chance for leaks (I guess).

Suck it up and build the rear tank now - this means less re-doing stuff later, but at the pace I get shit done now it'll be months before I get it built.

At this point I'm leaning towards the easiest option of using the drain port on the bottom, and making a little extension to the pickup so that it draws a half inch or so above the bottom of the tank. I still need to figure out how to seal to that drian plug hole, its 1/2-20 straight thread (WTF International, can't you do anything the normal way?)

Any suggestions, thoughts, etc? What are you all doing who run the stock saddle tanks still?

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Old 01-01-2016, 12:12 PM   #237 (permalink)
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Old 01-01-2016, 12:28 PM   #238 (permalink)
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Any suggestions, thoughts, etc?
I wouldn't weld on a coated tank. A quick, easy solution would be to use an AN bulkhead fitting with teflon washers in the top (even in the fuel level pick up if you can). Connect an AN to tube adapter with a short piece of AL or Stainless tube for the down-tube inside. I've done this before and it works fine.

Just remember that if you can't mount the set-up to the fuel level flange, you need to put it in an area that you can access the fittings in the tank from either the fuel level flange hole or the fill tube. Make sense?

this post shows the top mount for my current fuel tank set up which uses the method described above: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/20969881-post45.html
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:33 PM   #239 (permalink)
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do it once and be done. A blazer tank fits, so does a scout II tank. Put an intank pump in it.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:34 AM   #240 (permalink)
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I wouldn't weld on a coated tank. A quick, easy solution would be to use an AN bulkhead fitting with teflon washers in the top (even in the fuel level pick up if you can). Connect an AN to tube adapter with a short piece of AL or Stainless tube for the down-tube inside. I've done this before and it works fine.

Just remember that if you can't mount the set-up to the fuel level flange, you need to put it in an area that you can access the fittings in the tank from either the fuel level flange hole or the fill tube. Make sense?

this post shows the top mount for my current fuel tank set up which uses the method described above: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/20969881-post45.html
Cool, I hadn't thought of bulkhead fittings. What's the real advantage though vs drawing off the bottom of the tank, assuming I do it in a way that puts the pickup say 3/4" off the bottom? I like the idea of not drawing 18-20" of head on the pump all the time ...

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do it once and be done. A blazer tank fits, so does a scout II tank. Put an intank pump in it.
I will buy/make a centered rear tank with an in-tank pump eventually, but I want to keep one/both saddle tanks as reserve capacity either way - shooting for 20+ gallons in the main tank,. with an extra 9-10 for long trips. So the work in making the saddle tank usable isn't really wasted in the long run. And I have it, and I want to hear the damn engine run sooner than later.

Any suggestion on what year Blazer to look at? Teh Googles says that K5 tanks are 28.75 x 28.125 x 10.75, I measured the space between the back of the axle and rear bumper crossmember to be 16". Is the tank up above the axle? I need to set the rear axle at full bump and see how much height I have to work with. Looks like there is some, but I don't think there's 10"


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Old 01-04-2016, 04:27 PM   #241 (permalink)
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You don't want to draw off the bottom because the head pressure from the fuel level will push fuel out if you leak from or disconnect any fitting that is too low. This potentially causes your entire tank to leak out versus just what's already in the lines.

X2 on not welding on the lined tank. Not only will it ruin your liner it will make for porous welds that won't be fuel tight and possibly some nice noxious fumes. And if your tank has had fuel in it I would stay away from welding on it lined or not unless you really know what your doing and plan accordingly. Just airing the tank out for a while may not be enough to prevent an explosion.

As for advise on which way to go I'd put the final tank in the back and be done with it. Why spend all this time figuring out how to make the stock tanks work just to redo the plumbing later. Plus you can make some cool storage areas out of the tank locations
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:49 PM   #242 (permalink)
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You deleted the link,

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Old 01-23-2016, 07:52 PM   #243 (permalink)
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I'll just leave this here ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR1v-d3Q7_Q

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Old 01-23-2016, 08:05 PM   #244 (permalink)
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You deleted the link,
Yea sorry - cant for the life of me figure out how to embed the video. Whatever.
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:31 PM   #245 (permalink)
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It will never work for either....
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:07 AM   #246 (permalink)
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Some info on the electrical work to get the engine running:

I laid out the electrical panel on a piece of wood just to make moving things around easier - eventually this will be replaced with a piece of aluminum. Mounting everything to the firewall will let me keep the inner fenders removable for access to the engine (thanks for the idea Brennan).



Everything needed for the engine to run is handled by this small fuse/relay block (LINK). It uses Metripack 280 series terminals just like the Bussman RMTR, but packages nice for the few circuits I need for the engine to run. I'm still debating keeping this fully separated from the rest of the truck's wiring system or integrating it into one of the two RMTR's you see mounted there.

I documented the fuse block here if anyone's interested. Its a little different from other 'standalone LS engine fuse block' schematics I've found since i'm using a separate relay for switched power, rather than building it into the engine fuse block, but in case its useful to anyone else here it is: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7...m5DNnQ1SHRPeTQ



Main switched relay is a Bussman 37702 (LINK) which feeds the two bus bars at the top (one is Constant hot, one is ignition switched).

All of the wiring passing through the firewall will run through a weatherpack bulkhead connector (LINK) next to the electrical panel, to the back side of the dash. The dash wiring will all be terminated into connectors so that its not a rats nest of spade plugs and everything is easy to remove and replace.

Other minor work done was fitting the transfer case shifters so that I can figure out where to cut the opening in the transmission tunnel cover.


Next step is getting the cooling system sorted - I need to order the radiator i plan to use (Griffin Direct Fit Radiators 8-00009-LS), build some mounting/shrouding for it and get hoses sorted out. A friend found the above LS swap radiator from Griffin that's similar size to the popular 26x19 universal radiator, except about $100 cheaper and with a year warranty instead of 30 days! Good find!

I'm also patching up the header clearance holes in the firewall, then I'll pull the motor back out, clean up, paint and insulate the firewall, and get the clutch sorted out so that the engine can go back in for good.

If anyone can tell me how to embed the video of the first start up I'd really appreciate it.
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Old 02-15-2016, 07:00 PM   #247 (permalink)
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Nice work on the wiring harness and getting it fired up.

As for the fuel tank, I am in a similar situation. I have the center tank mounted plumbed and plan on using one of the side tanks as reserve. I would avoid pulling from the drain if possible, you say it doesnlt have a draw tube in the stock location, how does your tank draw now? From the bottom? What fuel sender and fuel gauge are you using? Do you plan on having the fuel gauge switch when you switch tanks also?

There are many ways to do the center tank (I used the rear tank from the F250 I parted out) I'd follow Jmarshall's lead on the CJ/YJ 15gal center tank.

When posting from a computer it usually will embed youtube videos automatically when you paste the URL (that doesn't usually work for me from a mobile device)


if posting from a mobile device, paste the random letters that come after the "watch?v=" in the URL in youtube brackets

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Old 02-15-2016, 07:30 PM   #248 (permalink)
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I also dug up a pic of how I did my GM column swap. I modified the stock bracket (keeping the top mounting points on the top of the firewall) and added a bracket off the pedal box.

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Old 02-15-2016, 08:54 PM   #249 (permalink)
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Nice work on the wiring harness and getting it fired up.

As for the fuel tank, I am in a similar situation. I have the center tank mounted plumbed and plan on using one of the side tanks as reserve. I would avoid pulling from the drain if possible, you say it doesnlt have a draw tube in the stock location, how does your tank draw now? From the bottom? What fuel sender and fuel gauge are you using? Do you plan on having the fuel gauge switch when you switch tanks also?

There are many ways to do the center tank (I used the rear tank from the F250 I parted out) I'd follow Jmarshall's lead on the CJ/YJ 15gal center tank.
Right now its running off the saddle tank (yes, drawing off the bottom) just as a temporary setup to start the motor. Seems to be working fine so far, but I get the arguments for a better setup for long term use.

The CJ tank is too long front to back, as is anything else I've found (Blazer, Scout II, etc) - I think I'd have to modify it to clear the pumpkin, which sorta defeats the purpose of using something 'off the shelf'. I think most people that use it must be tall enough that even at full bump the axle has room under the tank.

I think I'll end up designing a tank and having a local sheet metal shop cut and bend it for me. Should be lots of good TIG welding practice I can design it to use the Bosch 044 pump in-tank or use an OEM in-tank pump (03 Silverado or similar) which would have a built in fuel level sender. I think I can get 20+ gallons in the main tank, and then use one of the saddle tanks as a 10 gallon reserve when needed - i'd set up the reserve to transfer into the main tank rather than switching fuel pickups & senders, that way there's one pump & filter system feeding the engine. The transfer pump can be something cheap and low flow, and I'll make a pick up for it from the top of the tank to make all you guys happy.

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I also dug up a pic of how I did my GM column swap. I modified the stock bracket (keeping the top mounting points on the top of the firewall) and added a bracket off the pedal box.
I like how you tied into the pedal box, I'll look at doing something similar. Got any pictures of what the mount on the other side of the firewall looks like? I've just got a U-bolt on it now, definitely looking to do something more secure.
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:39 AM   #250 (permalink)
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The CJ tank is too long front to back, as is anything else I've found (Blazer, Scout II, etc) - I think I'd have to modify it to clear the pumpkin, which sorta defeats the purpose of using something 'off the shelf'. I think most people that use it must be tall enough that even at full bump the axle has room under the tank.

I think I'll end up designing a tank and having a local sheet metal shop cut and bend it for me. Should be lots of good TIG welding practice I can design it to use the Bosch 044 pump in-tank or use an OEM in-tank pump (03 Silverado or similar) which would have a built in fuel level sender. I think I can get 20+ gallons in the main tank, and then use one of the saddle tanks as a 10 gallon reserve when needed - i'd set up the reserve to transfer into the main tank rather than switching fuel pickups & senders, that way there's one pump & filter system feeding the engine. The transfer pump can be something cheap and low flow, and I'll make a pick up for it from the top of the tank to make all you guys happy.



I like how you tied into the pedal box, I'll look at doing something similar. Got any pictures of what the mount on the other side of the firewall looks like? I've just got a U-bolt on it now, definitely looking to do something more secure.
CJ tank fits pretty well with room to spare
Adding a tank between the frame rails in a 80 | BinderPlanet
Offical 1966 Scout 800 Half Top Rebuild | Page 2 | BinderPlanet
Post #39 has pics of a Jeep tank mounted. fits pretty good, although, hangs down a bit more than I'd like.

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I cut the center crossmember and mounted my tank forward of the rear axle, just to make sure the 14B wouldn't smash it.

For the steering column, I just made a simple pinch bolt bracket angled to match the firewall, then need a bit more clearance around the exhaust, so I added a u-bolt exhaust clamp with a spacer to the side of the fender well.

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