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Old 12-12-2013, 02:10 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 472Scout View Post
Desert racers mount their shock in the trailing arm with a special bushing to control twist.
I've seen bushing that are like a big soft urethane washer that makes up the space between a heim and the bracket, th idea being to keep the joint centered but still allow flex when needed. I'll look into this if I go with bent links.

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Loving the build, very similar to what I'm going to do with my 62.

How's the height in the rear with the 56" chevies? I only want to run 33's on my scout, and have been considering those springs as a good alternative. I really like keeping them spring under to control axle wrap.
I feel like the 56" chevy leafs are about as long as you'd want under a Scout 80/800 without too much spring hanging off the back. I think the back of the springs will be about even with the bumper, not perfect but it should work until I 4 link the rear My frame is ~19" off the ground, and I've got 6" long shackles in the back, if you were lower you could go a bit shorter I think. I tried spring over first, and it was taller than I wanted. Will likely try to come up with a lower profile spring plate at some point.

The springs are long enough that the front eye is right around where the frame starts to curve upward so you're gaining a bit of height based on spring mounting. This is a crap picture but shows the stock and new mounts. Conveniently the 56" check spring eye is 3" wide, same as the frame, so the mounts ended up simple.



I can try to get a better picture if there's anything else you want to see.

Last edited by MotoDave; 12-12-2013 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:51 AM   #27 (permalink)
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It's been like 6 years since anybody brought anything cool to the table except for maybe PLUG UGLY...

This build excites me...and it is simple. Oh how things evolve.

Bravo so far. Keep updating please.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:32 AM   #28 (permalink)
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It's been like 6 years since anybody brought anything cool to the table except for maybe PLUG UGLY...

This build excites me...and it is simple. Oh how things evolve.

Bravo so far. Keep updating please.
I wasn't sure this build was pirate enough, figured if it gets ignored I'll just go away. I think this truck will be an ongoing project, and will at some point morph into something more pirate-worthy.

I'm pretty much caught up to date, have a few minor projects left to post. I will keep updating as I make progress.
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:33 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Great work on that fuel filler, those dies turned out great!
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:12 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I was talking to the wife and she said I just might get CAD for xmas.

that's Cardboard Aided Design.

I guess it will go well with my 4.5" Dewalt plasma cutter.

One tip would be to tack weld some of those items and burning them in later once your 100% on where those links are going to be.
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:28 AM   #31 (permalink)
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I was talking to the wife and she said I just might get CAD for xmas.

that's Cardboard Aided Design.

I guess it will go well with my 4.5" Dewalt plasma cutter.

One tip would be to tack weld some of those items and burning them in later once your 100% on where those links are going to be.
I actually build a lot more by making cardboard templates and grinding till it fits than I do with real CAD, unless its a part that would take too long to make using my basic tools or something I think I want to make more of later on.

All suspension brackets are just tacked on for now like you said.

Last edited by MotoDave; 12-14-2013 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:54 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Looks good MotoDave, the stance & tire size is just right. Love that flush filler neck.
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Last edited by guidolyons; 12-14-2013 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:24 AM   #33 (permalink)
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As mentioned earlier, in order to mate the Dana 300 to the GM NV4500, I needed both a clocking ring and also a 5/8" spacer to keep the output shaft from bottoming in the input of the transfer case. Also, the input bearing retainer on the Dana 300 was screwed up, so I needed a new one which are hard to find. Novak came out with both a standard and an extrnded length version, which I used (Novak P/N 8131681-C)
Parts for the Jeep & IH Dana 300 Transfer Cases

The extended length has a ~7/8" long pilot diameter, which allows me to keep the factory pilot of the transfer case into the transmission tailhousing. I got it all installed last night, works out perfectly.

Stock input bearing retainer showing how the clocking ring eliminates the factory pilot


Novak extended length input bearing retainer installed




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Old 12-16-2013, 08:51 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Nice!
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:01 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I threw a front fender on last night to see how much I'm looking at trimming, and it still looks better than expected. It looks like I need to lose 2-3" at the front edge of the fender, but the back clears OK. I believe the front axle is ~1" forward of the stock location, which is definitely helping. Wheel base is around 103-104".





This is at full bump, I'm waiting to get the coilovers and steering joints for the front end to be able to cycle through articulation and see how everything clears.

Right now the tire hitting the lower link is limiting my steering to ~25 in one direction, 50 total.



According to my maths if I use a 5.5" long TJ/YJ pitman arm I can get 44 of steering at the knuckle. If use the 6.25" long WJ pitman arm I will get 48 steering at the knuckle, and I can run the knuckle steering stops out to limit this so that I'm not hitting the internal stops in the steering box. Can anyone with more experience than me tell me if I'm thinking this through right?
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Old 12-21-2013, 05:53 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I had to go back to the first post and refresh my memory:

"Front Axle: Chevy Blazer Dana 44, Ford hubs and rotors. Narrowed to Scout II width to be able to use Scout II axle shafts."

Math is good I'm sure, but maybe first take a step back and rethink this whole thing. You're putting a lot of work and some bucks into this just to end up with a crappy turning radius. My first thought was 3/4 ton outers (since you already have a lot of work into the blazer axle) and different rims to get some clearance, but it looks like you don't have all that much backspacing to work with.
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:17 PM   #37 (permalink)
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What is a good number for steering angle at the knuckle? I'm guessing I could get another 10 degrees with bent lower links, but I haven't come across any pitman arms long enough to get that much steering.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:17 PM   #38 (permalink)
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35 would be good. Stock 44 shaft yokes bind up around 40 degs, but best to check your particular shafts.

Last edited by 472Scout; 12-22-2013 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:26 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Desert racers mount their shock in the trailing arm with a special bushing to control twist.
Not really applicable in this case, but a better way is to mount the C/O's lower mount below the imaginary line between the two end pivots of the arm. That makes the weight on the arm stand it upright and not need an articulation limiting/resisting bushing.
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:32 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I picked up some 12" travel Fox coilovers for the front end:


I also ordered the wild horses gorilla warflares, I've been holding off on cutting the fenders until I had the flares in hand, so I finally bit the bullet.

Lastly I've got the steering tie rod ends on order. Hoping all of this gets here in the next few days and I can wrap up the location of the panhard bar brackets and start thinking about cutting and welding the final links. I am looking forward to getting the truck back to being a roller.

Last edited by MotoDave; 12-30-2013 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:24 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Do you think that with the lift you have a set of 33's would clear the fenders without cutting?
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:48 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Do you think that with the lift you have a set of 33's would clear the fenders without cutting?
I think the front would but the back is pretty tight, I think you'd have to trim some there. I have a friend with a scout 800 on 33x10.5's, he is running lift springs (not sure how much) and his truck sits taller than mine does, but he hasn't trimmed the fenders at all. I don't think his will flex as much as my set up will.

I'm trying to keep the truck pretty low, so I'd rather trim more than end up with more lift.
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:35 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I think the front would but the back is pretty tight, I think you'd have to trim some there. I have a friend with a scout 800 on 33x10.5's, he is running lift springs (not sure how much) and his truck sits taller than mine does, but he hasn't trimmed the fenders at all. I don't think his will flex as much as my set up will.

I'm trying to keep the truck pretty low, so I'd rather trim more than end up with more lift.
33x10.50's are what I'm shooting for. And I'm not going with wider axles either.

Low slung is always a good idea. Both of my cruisers (FJ40 on 40's and a FJ60 on 35's) are running about a 2.5" lift. Sawzall was my friend on those, but on my 62 I'd like to keep the fenders intact if I can. Mine will be more of a hunting truck and not a rockcrawler. So there is no reason to go gonzo with it.

Thanks!
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:51 AM   #44 (permalink)
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This might help, here are a few shots of the 35x12.5's on the stock axles/suspension. Obviously no room for any uptravel, but with skinnier tires and a bit of lift you might be OK. I think when you got cross axled and turning you'll rub pretty bad though.



Guess I never had the front fender in place when it still had the stock suspension underneath
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:16 AM   #45 (permalink)
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That helps lots thanks..

Now all I gotta do is find a set of 33" rollers to get mine mocked up! A buddy is coming out for KOH and bringing me the axles and V6.

Heck, with the way that looks on 35's with the stock suspension, I'd say cut more and lift less. Looks awesome.

my 60 on 35's
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:44 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Mace, are you building a Scout as well? That 60 sure looks familiar, but not much like a Scout.....
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:42 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Mace, are you building a Scout as well? That 60 sure looks familiar, but not much like a Scout.....
Thom, he's got the Scout with the cool high roof I was telling you about today.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/inter...ngs-weird.html
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:32 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Indeed, I'm going to build it for my son's first vehicle.

Sorry to sidetrack your thread Dave.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:15 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Super nice. Loving it
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:58 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I got the fender flares in, they're the Wild Horses Gorilla Warflares. They are urethane and seem like they'll conform well to the scout body.

Been a while since I've had the fenders and grille in place, its actually starting to look like a real truck again.


Front flare fitment, I think this may come forward a little more.




Rear, I think this needs to come a bit further back.
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